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I tried again to fit a disc brake to the front with no luck, and I checked the derailleur again. it doesn't reach far enough to clear the biggest cog, the little wheel rides up on it. I adjusted the stop all the way and positioned it back farther but there's no way to adjust the backward swing...

I dug out almost all my scrap and also some good stuff I could use to make the sidecar frame. I have more than I thought I did.

With all the shiny chrome I would paint.

I wasn't going to say anything. :whistle: I had the neighborhood cruiser guys in my shop back in Mayport Florida showing them how to repack the crank bearings. As I was putting the cranks back together, I realized I had the chain ring on the wrong side! I declared "Breaktime! Pizza and beer!"...

Sounds like a machine gun?

We went out and caught a movie yesterday. Furiosa. Lots of rat rod vehicles, I enjoyed it. Why all those people had to stay in the middle of a desert and travel to where anything was didn't make sense but made for plenty of roadtrips in some outlandish rigs! From an early 60's Plymouth Valiant...

That's a good frame to start with. Does it have a plate on the bottom bracket with numbers?

Here it is now: Cutting, flattening, shaping, and drilling.

The Gambles dept store used Murrays and other manufacturers as their branded bikes. They are the same as the other bikes made by Murray as that one for sale is, just branded as Hiawatha. The model name was also unique for those bikes, like this one, Hiawatha Penetrator III. Even though that...

Can the washer between the dropout and drive side cone be removed? If you still have tire clearance that may give enough spacing and maybe along with a flipped chain wheel might be enough.

I'm using the same kind on my build. I had to tighten the allen screw as it was loose when it arrived. I also greased the hinge area and it worked much better.

Thanks for the inputs. I think setting it low with a straight brace will do the trick. If I use the first hole in the bar for mounting, the brace will be parellel to the head tube and seat tube of the frame. The rack will be in line with the top tube so it should look fairly even.

The Schwinnis a DX model, the serial number can get the year for you. Fleet was a brand name. The 24" bike is a CWC made bike, probably prewar by the straight downtube. With a CWC chain wheel. Also can get the year from the serial number. Both bikes should have the numbers on the BB.

The first chain I tried fits! It has plenty of clearance with the tire but still won't catch low gear using the shifter. I'll have to adjust the derailluer more.

I agree. Would it look better with a straight brace or more curvature added to the ones I have already?

I tried a few things with the rack. 1. Supports facing forward: 2. Supports facing rearward: 3. Rack lowered in line with the topbar: The third one may need supports made up, and I have another sissy bar that can be cut up so the supports match the other chrome tubing, like on the...

I saw some of those also, but the head badge is different and they all have a different BB.

Strip to bare metal and clear sounds good.:thumbsup: I think it's just shiny metal. I did some hunting around to find info on that bike, no Viscount or Behrens matched up with that frame. I've seen a lugged frame with a American BB but I can't remember where.

The seat is history. I did some more bending, on both the sissy bar and the supports. I've got enough width now. The supports may need a little more bend to lower the rack a little more. I can reverse the supports and have them bow backwards but I think bowing forward may look better. I'll do...

That was my original idea. The bars need spread apart to fit over the tire, and the thin metal might kink, maybe I can put a spacer or two at the seat collar to keep the long straight tube look.