CWC Cycle truck..How would you build this odd ball?

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Picked this up yesterday from a local cool guy! Want a nice rider, thinking front drum brake, maybe 3 speed rear rim to go with click shifter. Any thoughts. Thanks
 
What a cool frame, definitely a Thickslick on the rear, maybe a banana seat or a laid back seat post with a Brooks saddle. I think it would be cool if you could run the rear slick and keep the fender, check the stance and go from there.

Definitely a good start you’ve got with that frame [emoji4][emoji4][emoji4].


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I wouldn't do much to change the look except for eliminating the god awful bars. What a cool bike. It needs new wheels, wider rear street tire. It's got nice curved fender stays, a cool stem, chainwheel and a dog leg crank. I would swap bars, they look out of place, leg a leather saddle, rubber block pedals, perhaps a longer seat post to make it more comfortable, maybe a Nexus 3 speed but I like the skip tooth chainring. Looks like the rear drive is 1/2 inch pitch so I might try and use the front chainring and perhaps go with a single speed skip tooth coaster with a 10 tooth cog for easier pedaling. A Nexus 3 speed would be nice but you would have to change the front chainwheel. The front chainwheel is probably for a 3/16 inch skip tooth chain, too wide for modern single speed chains. Easiest conversion, best riding, most reliable and most replaceable would be to change the drive to a twist grip 3 speed. I think that is what I would do, along with tires, new front wheel, front braking system, sprung saddle, rubber block pedals, new bars and a kick stand or center stand. You could also go lowrider, use wheels with a lot of spokes, apes, fancy chainwheel with stars, lots of reflectors and streamers, flag mounts and use it for the 4th of July as a parade bike. What a great bike to cruise around on. I like the first idea better than the parade route.
 
I'd find some vintage parts like rear wheel, bars, saddle, skip tooth chain, and put some fat rubber on the back.


This ^^ plus I'd add a crate on the front for "cargoey" goodness
 
Looks like CWC to me too. Cycle trucks are in big demand. The serial number on the BB can give you the year.
 
You could add a Solex engine on the front. You would have a low center of gravity with the engine mounted on the small front wheel.
 
I realized all the CWC Cycle trucks look alike, so I looked some pics to see if I could pinpoint what decade yours might belong to. Since much of it isn't original, although the parts are CWC, this 30's model has the same chain ring. With a serial beginning with "D" that chain ring would make yours around mid 1938 to early 1939. I found a 43 wartime cycle truck with blackout hubs, but a different chain wheel, but "D" also is late 43/early 44. So, I think yours is 38 because of the low production number on your number.
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As for what to do with it, anything goes because of the different parts it has, and you can restore it if you do run across a bunch of correct parts later, as long as the frame isn't cut up. The long head tube restricts what forks you can use, but a home made springer using that same fork with some fabbed brackets and long vertical springs. That would probably make it stand out.
 
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Bike came with a 40'a era N.D. Hub,cleaned and relubed the hub and assembled, Also came with a skip tooth chain, its slightly stiff, should I soak it in evaporust, and then soak it in trans oil or something light? Also chain has two rivit type links that are a bit stiff and a link that looks like a master but no clip, any help??
 
View attachment 94671 View attachment 94672 View attachment 94673 View attachment 94674 View attachment 94675 View attachment 94676 View attachment 94677 Bike came with a 40'a era N.D. Hub,cleaned and relubed the hub and assembled, Also came with a skip tooth chain, its slightly stiff, should I soak it in evaporust, and then soak it in trans oil or something light? Also chain has two rivit type links that are a bit stiff and a link that looks like a master but no clip, any help??
This is a clip-less master link. Instead of using a clip, you are supposed to bend the chain, so the rods would move toward each other, and then you just remove the plate of the chain. You can see on the photo, the hole shape is not round, but prolonged.
 
I have had good luck soaking chain in a coffee can partially filled with diesel fuel. put the cover on and slosh it around. Pull the chain out after a day or 2 and flex the links. If they are free, leave it hang somewhere till it stops dripping then you are good. If some links are still sticky, repeat the soak. sometimes a little pb blaster on the worst links is needed.
 

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