H is 1965. The brake arm should say "Made in Germany" above the brand name.
59 Western Flyer Super Deluxe Tank Model (AKA 3-on-the-tree)
- Thread starter whitefiretiger
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
Ok, it's a 1970 hub. Probably just some light oil in the port will get it right, if it isn't already. Looking at your shift cable, it used one or two pulleys attached to the frame. Where the the cable is sleeved, it ran from the shifter on the handlebars down to the frame, where it had a stop bracket. Then the cable ran back through a round wheel, or two, to the stop where it hooked up to the chain pull. It probably had a little turnbuckle or barrel nut to adjust the tension.
It'll probably be easier to get a new shift cable that doesn't need the pulleys, because the jacketed portion runs all the way to the stop bracket at the chain pull. Then just a couple clips hold the cable to the frame, or no clips if you shorten it up with a shifter on the seat stay. The new cable may come with what you need, and/or you can make up the connection at the chain pull somehow.
It'll probably be easier to get a new shift cable that doesn't need the pulleys, because the jacketed portion runs all the way to the stop bracket at the chain pull. Then just a couple clips hold the cable to the frame, or no clips if you shorten it up with a shifter on the seat stay. The new cable may come with what you need, and/or you can make up the connection at the chain pull somehow.
The hub seems to spin well but will get oiled.
I was thanking I could just slide the cable sleeve off and shorten the cable to whatever length I may need. The black piece hooked to the chain has an Allen bolt that holds the cable to the chain on this setup
I did some looking for how others have set there up when not going to the bars but all I keep finding is basically this (see pic) same setup over & over.
While that works on a straight seat stay and all it won't on my frame partly because I am planning for a banana seat also because I can't get my right hand to move the shifter correctly.
I was thanking I could just slide the cable sleeve off and shorten the cable to whatever length I may need. The black piece hooked to the chain has an Allen bolt that holds the cable to the chain on this setup
I did some looking for how others have set there up when not going to the bars but all I keep finding is basically this (see pic) same setup over & over.
While that works on a straight seat stay and all it won't on my frame partly because I am planning for a banana seat also because I can't get my right hand to move the shifter correctly.
I tossed the wheel that has the 3 speed hub on the bike and played with it a bit.
The wheel spins great and by pulling the chain by hand while turning the crank I could easily shift all 3 gears; seems to shift well & I could feel the difference in resistance when it shifted.
Looks like its about time to separate this hub from the 26x1-1/4 rim.
The wheel spins great and by pulling the chain by hand while turning the crank I could easily shift all 3 gears; seems to shift well & I could feel the difference in resistance when it shifted.
Looks like its about time to separate this hub from the 26x1-1/4 rim.
I picked up this front hub I'm thinking will be nice to use for this build;
The high flange seems to be about the same as the rear hub. Would be nice if they measure out the same so I can just order one size of spoke lol.
Anybody know what this hub might be? I'm not seeing any markings.
The high flange seems to be about the same as the rear hub. Would be nice if they measure out the same so I can just order one size of spoke lol.
Anybody know what this hub might be? I'm not seeing any markings.
Well spent some time working on this bike after work.
First I pulled the new rear hub and gave it a little cleaning; also cleaned the new front hub.
Was digging threw a box of parts I didn't realize I had & found a brand new chain & a pair of Schwinn 12" apes.
Stuck the apes on and the led converted headlight I might use on as well as I'm playing with the idea of mounting the shifter on the stem.
Also realized I never posted my spitfire rear tire.
First I pulled the new rear hub and gave it a little cleaning; also cleaned the new front hub.
Was digging threw a box of parts I didn't realize I had & found a brand new chain & a pair of Schwinn 12" apes.
Stuck the apes on and the led converted headlight I might use on as well as I'm playing with the idea of mounting the shifter on the stem.
Also realized I never posted my spitfire rear tire.
It's coming together pretty good. Maybe you could mount the shifter to the sissy bar if it doesn't work out on the stem. Your front hub looks like the one I picked out of a bucket for my front wheel on my folder. No name on it either, but I used it because it has a vintage look.
Thanks I did have the thought of on the sissy bar too but thinking if I can get the stem idea to work out will be best. Maybe a little custom work to make it look more like a shift handle.
That does look like the same front hub; you happy with it?
Seems I leaning toward making this look like it was rebuilt during the muscle bike era.
That does look like the same front hub; you happy with it?
Seems I leaning toward making this look like it was rebuilt during the muscle bike era.
My hub has loose bearings, and the adjustment is tricky, it's old and worn. It takes some fine tuning when attaching the front wheel. So far it's been good.
This has new grease and seems to spin well but won't know how well until it has the hoop attached.
Need to get measurements so I can start trying to figure out what spokes I need.
Unfortunately it seems the front hub flange is around 1/4" smaller than the rear; oh well just more math
Need to get measurements so I can start trying to figure out what spokes I need.
Unfortunately it seems the front hub flange is around 1/4" smaller than the rear; oh well just more math
Just did some quick sloppy math (can't seem to find my dial caliper) but I'm coming up with only a 3mm difference in spoke length from front to rear. Hoping I can find my tool and get more accurate measurements.
Also finally counted the chainring and found its a 52T; I thought it was a 48T.
That's going to make it more fun to get this thing geared to be friendly for daily riding.
From what I've found the 3 speed is
1st = 73% (0.73)
2nd = 100% (1.00)
3rd = 136% (1.36)
It has a 18T cog so even in 1st I think it will be geared to high for some of the hills I have to climb; if I could find a 21T or 22T cog would be best but could probably tuff it out with a 20T. I'll figure this out after I get it rideable.
Also finally counted the chainring and found its a 52T; I thought it was a 48T.
That's going to make it more fun to get this thing geared to be friendly for daily riding.
From what I've found the 3 speed is
1st = 73% (0.73)
2nd = 100% (1.00)
3rd = 136% (1.36)
It has a 18T cog so even in 1st I think it will be geared to high for some of the hills I have to climb; if I could find a 21T or 22T cog would be best but could probably tuff it out with a 20T. I'll figure this out after I get it rideable.
Last edited:
With the 3 speeds I've had, when I went with a larger cog, 22 teeth, first gear was good for climbing, but then second was too low for normal cruising, and 3rd was too high for normal cruising. I was always looking for one more gear between 2nd and 3rd. I think you'll be just about right with a 20 tooth cog on the hub with the 52 tooth chain wheel. My old Schwinn here was one speed, 52/20, and it cruised along easily but not too slow. If it had a 1st gear at 73%, it would have been good for climbing.
Thanks. Wondering if the 20T cog from the original hub will work otherwise I'll be looking for one.
Using the gear inch calculator a 21T cog would be just about right for my liking but hard to say.
On the 3.5 mile ride to work I have a massive elevation increase. The first mile is slight down hill & some flat then 1.5 miles up hill followed by .5 downhill and finally .5 up hill. Its a crazy 134 foot total elevation increase getting to work (30-45 minutes on my 7 speed) but going home is almost too easy (15-20 minutes).
Using the gear inch calculator a 21T cog would be just about right for my liking but hard to say.
On the 3.5 mile ride to work I have a massive elevation increase. The first mile is slight down hill & some flat then 1.5 miles up hill followed by .5 downhill and finally .5 up hill. Its a crazy 134 foot total elevation increase getting to work (30-45 minutes on my 7 speed) but going home is almost too easy (15-20 minutes).
Last edited:
Stripped the tank and gave it a first shot of primer. The metal the tank is made of starts rusting in a big hurry so I'll sand the primer and then do any dent repairs because I don't want to chance it rusting.
Also started sanding the chain guard as I forgot how bad this paint shows imperfections even before clear coat; I don't mind some little imperfections but the sanding marks from sanding the primer were showing .
Going to have to pick up more high grit sandpaper than I'd normally use at this stage in a paint job.
Also started sanding the chain guard as I forgot how bad this paint shows imperfections even before clear coat; I don't mind some little imperfections but the sanding marks from sanding the primer were showing .
Going to have to pick up more high grit sandpaper than I'd normally use at this stage in a paint job.
Looks like I probability won't get too much done on any of my bikes for a couple days.
Hurt my back (sprained ribs is what the doc said) so just getting threw work will be about all I can manage till I heal up.
Might try to sneak some light duty bike work in tho. Dang addictions lol.
Hurt my back (sprained ribs is what the doc said) so just getting threw work will be about all I can manage till I heal up.
Might try to sneak some light duty bike work in tho. Dang addictions lol.
While I'm unable to do much physical work till my back is better I'm working on design ideas.
I'd like some feedback on this part as I'm currently torn.
Here's a rough rendering for the tank "decal" (will be painted); I can't decide between these 2.
I'd like some feedback on this part as I'm currently torn.
Here's a rough rendering for the tank "decal" (will be painted); I can't decide between these 2.
Of the two, I like the lower one. Having the lettering fall off the bottom will look cool as it wraps over the edge of the tank
Thanks I think I like that one slightly better too but still a bit torn. The letters falling off will be easier to mask off as well lol.
I'm trying to come up with something a bit more interesting but its such a small area on this tank that the letters will need to be only 1/2" tall to fit.
Also should mention I'm not using black for the second color; its going to be oil rubbed bronze metallic.
I'm trying to come up with something a bit more interesting but its such a small area on this tank that the letters will need to be only 1/2" tall to fit.
Also should mention I'm not using black for the second color; its going to be oil rubbed bronze metallic.
