BO15 Carcass

[toro1978]

I think this fork is powder coated. The top coat is easily scraped away, but the layer underneath is hard to remove. I have to go hard on the knife and get it to the metal. The knife is already dull which must add to the problem.
In comparison the paint on the frame was the other way around - the top coat was hard, but once I got it off it was easy to sand the rest away.

 

[toro1978]

I just had the idea to dissolve the paint with soda. Which would probably take a while, maybe longer than sanding it. Still, internet says soda will dissolve a nail in about 4 days.
So I had this picture in my head how I sit and turn the fork in the clamp, dousing it in Coca Cola over and over every half an hour, like roasting something in the oven...

 

[sandman]

I just had the idea to dissolve the paint with soda. Which would probably take a while, maybe longer than sanding it. Still, internet says soda will dissolve a nail in about 4 days.
So I had this picture in my head how I sit and turn the fork in the clamp, dousing it in Coca Cola over and over every half an hour, like roasting something in the oven...

I like my forks medium rare , please .

 

[kingfish254]

That bolt on rear end is interesting. It is somewhat like the suspension rear end I did for Flexy in BO7, but your example is stationary.

 

[toro1978]

What bothers me a little is that the whole setup is held in place by 3 m6 bolts.

 

[SpikeFC]

I just had the idea to dissolve the paint with soda. Which would probably take a while, maybe longer than sanding it. Still, internet says soda will dissolve a nail in about 4 days.
So I had this picture in my head how I sit and turn the fork in the clamp, dousing it in Coca Cola over and over every half an hour, like roasting something in the oven...

Paint stripper. It only needs about 4hrs. But doesn't work well with powder coating

 

[toro1978]

So, the bulk of the sanding is done. The legsa have to be inspected and sanded here and there a bit more. Needless to say the dropouts, the rockers and the crown will be the real treat.

Also maybe the seat:

 

[toro1978]

I saw one of the bikes of le mad hatter. It seems he crimped the additional tubes where they attach to the dropouts so bigger bolts can be used instead.

And while I could not use the previous way of mounting, because I unwisely removed the brake bridge (or fender mount whatever) I do have such a frame with bolt on seat stays, even with tracks dropouts.
But I have not decided yet whether I use that idea or not - on one hand it will drop the BB significantly, on the other hand my BB will be quite raised with the 28" rear wheel and the 28" springer fork so it is a possibility.

I have ordered a bunch of parts, but when I received a box today I couldn't guess what was inside - the size of a shoe box. So way too big for the 16t sprocket, way too big for Shimano non turn washers, too small for a suspension fork, too small for a suspension seat post...


Well, it turns out it was my crankset.

Now I have to find out what BB I need for it, I read there are two standards.

 

[BartRidesEternal]

Nice!
That is probably for a "JIS" square tapered shaft? Tip: Measure and determine your rear sprockets/hub width first, then order the correct length of BB shaft. (Google chainline). This can be quite difficult, because you never exactly know how far the cranks go on the squared shaft. I tackle this by going to a bike shop, see if they have an old "square tapered bottom bracket cartridge" lying in the trash and mount my crank on there and measure again.
Your frame has a 51.5mm US bottom bracket right? Then you will need and US to EUR adapter, these are quite cheap. I have a "narrowed and adapted" one lying around which you can have for free if needed and interested.

I have all this knowledge about BB's because I did it wrong for many times! One time out of pure desperation I ordered four BB cartridges with different shaft lengths because my chain was way off and crooked

For the rest: your build is coming along nicely!

 

[toro1978]

Thank you. I have the adapter, picture in post 34. I might also have the euro bb.

 

[OddJob]

I just had the idea to dissolve the paint with soda. Which would probably take a while, maybe longer than sanding it. Still, internet says soda will dissolve a nail in about 4 days.
So I had this picture in my head how I sit and turn the fork in the clamp, dousing it in Coca Cola over and over every half an hour, like roasting something in the oven...

I like my forks so you can cut them with a butter knife.

 

[toro1978]

Is this a bsa BB?

It looks funny, I will try to remove it tomorrow and if I succeed I can test if the crankset is OK.

 

[toro1978]

I finished the fork too. It means like the frame there are some spots that would be redone till September, but I really want to take a break from sanding and clean up the mess that resulted from it.
The fork is pretty solid I think:

I forgot some washers, but it will be disassembled again anyway:

I sanded the rods for the springs too:

The crown has a rather rough surface:

Rockers:

 

[toro1978]

I also did some crude mock up pics. I really wanted to put the wheels on, but I got home late, gotta get early, so for now without the wheels.
I ordered this wonderful Post Moderne suspension seat post for my daily/ss/torpedo, but was curious to see how it would look:

It takes railed seat only so I don't have a better one than this one. But I think I will decide on the seat when I get the bike rolling.
I do have the Lepper Primus option still.
Originally I planned an inverted stem (mounted backwards is what I mean) with these bars from the fully which are brought further forward so they compensate for the inverted stem:

Then the arch would come somewhere over the ahead cap.
I am waiting for a stem to arrive for the fully, then I will have to take the bars off and will try them on this build.
However...
I bought these bars originally to use either on my daily project or on my new daily, but they also have a curve that puts them way further so work with a backwards stem and here they are:

I must admit I like them a lot.
Then I tried the speedo I had in mind (will probably use silver tape on the housing). I have a smaller one with a chrome ring from my Haribo bike, but I think the big one is more suitable and fills the bars better:

Not sure about the headlight though. Too small compared to the speedo. I have that big one, but it weighs a lot.
The original plan if I use the mtb bars is to not be having grips, will only use bare aluminum end plugs. And since I don't have brakes I might mount the shifter elsewhere, not sure about that though because I don't like riding one handed.
I work tomorrow morning, but after that I will be building whole weekend, Monday is a holiday too.

 

[kingfish254]

Perfect patina surface on those forks.
I like the Lepper on there too.

 

[toro1978]

I think the forks look bare much better than black.
I always liked that seat too, I rode it a lot, it was on my electric Felt. I hope it won't be to close too the handlebars.

 

[toro1978]

I think I will butcher this frame brutally. Ironically it has a lot of clearance, it came with 635 wheels.

But now that kingfish mentioned his flexy I am thinking - can I use bushings and make a suspension swing arm out of it? I have another mtb shock. My concern is the squished tube connection. I have to check the flexy bike. I want to extend the frame, but don't want to drop the rear so much.

Also can I buy rockers and bushings separately without the fork?

 

[SpikeFC]

Is this a bsa BB?
View attachment 123123
It looks funny, I will try to remove it tomorrow and if I succeed I can test if the crankset is OK.

Nope - That's a pressed in BB. If you move those plastic cups, You won't put them back in there One of the first attempts of Batavus/Gazelle/Sparta on making bikes with single-use parts.

 

[toro1978]

Thanks spike. I also read on them. ... BB. my fully also has them, but the bsa version that look like a plastic nut and can be unscrewed with a dedicated tool,( which is not worth for one time and seldom really helps) . It turns out the fully is also like this, with the plastic nut. Good news is a screwed in ... can be replaced with a hollow tech 2 so in the future the fully will get that upgrade.
I am definitely going for the extension though:

Next week I will order a BB and convert the frame with those adapters. I will also order a headset. I gave up trying to gather the pieces of the one I had. So once I install the crankset and know my pedal clearance I will know where to cut, then flatten and drill.

 

[toro1978]

Pedal clearance check:

Enough, around 10 cm, plus the tires are not pumped, they will raise the bike a bit more. The dropouts will be a pain too.
Getting the chain line rideable will probably be tricky, the seat stays will be OK I think, but the chain stays might be problematic.