Cleveland Klunker. Finished

Bike Wall
shop deals on amazon
BOXKARS
Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
cthomps said:
Valid points, most of them I hadn't even considered. I guess I will have to mock the bike up more before going to nuts. I have other frame options I could switch to. The reason I chose the cwc is I didn't want to weld the brake studs on the shelby frame I originally chosen

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I think a mock up would be good. Also search recent builds as someone else did a CWC Klunker. They were fine with the longer cranks. I don't remember what he used for a drive line. I'll look too and if I see it I'll send you a link. I always try and save old frames and have welded on replacement parts. A very worthy endeavor. They make clamp on brake bosses, perhaps that could be used and you wouldn't have to weld the Shelby frame. I don't know if they would fit your seat stays?
6481735315_bc64f7c352.jpg
 
Last edited:
Have you considered lengthening the steerer on the fork instead of shortening the headtube on the frame? I have considered shortening one before, imagine lengthening could be accomplised in a similar fashion. I planned on removing material from my steerer somewhere down low, maybe an inch above the crown, installing a sleeve inside the steerer, and welding it together. You could find another fork, trim the steerer from it, and add it to the one you currently have making it longer, obviously somewhere low, so you can still use the threads and install your quill style stem. Care would need to be taken to ensure it is straight while welding but may be a better solution than trimming the headtube of the frame?

Sent from my SM-G550T1 using Tapatalk
 
I had another thought. last Spring I used a MAPP torch to melt the brazing and remove brake bosses from an old Schwinn Frontier. I used vice grips on the bottom of the bosses to pull them off. I welded the bosses on an old early 80s Peugeot mountain bike that had worn out roller brakes. You could probably braze on bosses that you remove from an old bike, or buy new ones, and not ruin your Shelby Frame. There are RRB members that build up frames with brazing using a MAPP torch and they are cheap enough if you don't have one. Sheldon Brown shows you how braze on bosses. He used a homemade jig and that is detailed on his site as well. If you are aware of this I apologize in advance for pointing out something that you might already be aware of.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-fixture.html
 
us56456712 said:
I had another thought. last Spring I used a MAPP torch to melt the brazing and remove brake bosses from an old Schwinn Frontier. I used vice grips on the bottom of the bosses to pull them off. I welded the bosses on an old early 80s Peugeot mountain bike that had worn out roller brakes. You could probably braze on bosses that you remove from an old bike, or buy new ones, and not ruin your Shelby Frame. There are RRB members that build up frames with brazing using a MAPP torch and they are cheap enough if you don't have one. Sheldon Brown shows you how braze on bosses. He used a homemade jig and that is detailed on his site as well. If you are aware of this I apologize in advance for pointing out something that you might already be aware of.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-fixture.html
Click to expand...
I am not familiar with any of this metric, Allen wrenches, cables, derailers, brake bosses lol. I need a tetanus shot for most of what I turn wrench on, and I most always a standard wrench! Lol

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 
Here
cthomps said:
I am not familiar with any of this metric, Allen wrenches, cables, derailers, brake bosses lol. I need a tetanus shot for most of what I turn wrench on, and I most always a standard wrench! Lol

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
We all had to start somewhere, you will figure it out, don't get discouraged. This is a great site to ask question on the "how to' forum. I use a lot of vice grips, adjustable spanners (monkey wrench), hammers, hack saws and chisels.
 
Here is my Shelby Klunker. I has a wishbone frame (seat tube goes between the seat stays rather than having the seat stays end at the seat tube). I thought it might be back too far but it rides nice and has a long cockpit. Notice how much ground clearance there is at the pedal. I really like how this bike handles on single track. From my limited experience with them the Shelby frame seems to make a good Klunker. My seat post on the Shelby is 5/8 inch and if you use a hardware store hot rolled rod it will bend easily Klunking. I use 2024 aircraft grade aluminum alloy 5/8 rod and I haven't bent that. I have also used 5/8 cold rolled steel and that won't bend, but it is heavy. Shop the internet for these but the price varies a lot. I can get these locally but they charge way too much. Even with shipping I find the net has better prices on these rods that what I can get locally.
IMG_0576.JPG
 
I am familiar with a wishbone frame, I have a couple, I am not familiar with the style you have I'm digging it

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 
4d01db7495dbe97d383ac58edbe458d0.jpg
495d58e0faa73e0275b34494322779be.jpg
d10eabeec919fda63e1bb990274f4f42.jpg
Other than needing a longer chain my chain line works through all the gears

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 
cthomps said:
d252a849d8e57590672e40872b5c23d4.jpg
ff466b01ae1d51d33258ab1bd02aa8df.jpg
I was so close any way I put the front tire to see how it sits

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
A derailleur makes all the difference, great. It looks like you have plenty of pedal clearance. Looks like more pedal clearance than my 2015 full suspension mountain bike. For some reason I didn't have any pedal clearance on my CWC. I have another CWC that I think is newer as it doesn't have the chain tensioners, but it was still a skip tooth. Your frame is different than all of mine. The bottom top tube is curved not straight on all 3 of mine. Perhaps the frame geometry is different on mine and they have lower bottom brackets. I think 175 crank arms on my frames could be used as kick stands. Sorry for the worry but it looks like you are in good shape.
I want to know how it rides with a suspension fork. The biggest problem I have is trying to keep Klunkers on rough sections of the trail. At speed they would fly off the trail. I have to pick my way through but with my suspension bike I just point it between the trees and go much faster. The use of a front disc is impressive. You have solved the biggest drawbacks to riding a klunker and you still have the old klunker geometry and vintage look. I like it a lot and I want one. I have a 1940 Columbia frame hanging on the wall so Perhaps I will build one to?
 
Last edited:
us56456712 said:
A derailleur makes all the difference, great. It looks like you have plenty of pedal clearance. Looks like more pedal clearance than my 2015 full suspension mountain bike. For some reason I didn't have any pedal clearance on my CWC. I have another CWC that I think is newer as it doesn't have the chain tensioners, but it was still a skip tooth. Your frame is different than all of mine. The bottom top tube is curved not straight on all 3 of mine. Perhaps the frame geometry is different on mine and they have lower bottom brackets. I think 175 crank arms on my frames could be used as kick stands. Sorry for the worry but it looks like you are in good shape.
Click to expand...
All good, better safe than sorry.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 
squirreldh said:
Have you considered lengthening the steerer on the fork instead of shortening the headtube on the frame? I have considered shortening one before, imagine lengthening could be accomplised in a similar fashion. I planned on removing material from my steerer somewhere down low, maybe an inch above the crown, installing a sleeve inside the steerer, and welding it together. You could find another fork, trim the steerer from it, and add it to the one you currently have making it longer, obviously somewhere low, so you can still use the threads and install your quill style stem. Care would need to be taken to ensure it is straight while welding but may be a better solution than trimming the headtube of the frame?

Sent from my SM-G550T1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
cf08aa933353ecd3ca70007d9f383e28.jpg
bbcf9d65a258ff2f9820afabc8ff40d5.jpg
This just happened!

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 
Moving right along Chad! Tell me again, why did you chop the rear end off and are going to weld a new one on? Other than, I do know you like to play with torches and stuff
 

Latest posts

Back
Top