Fork fit ?, GT Dyno/Felt

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gcrank1

gcrank1

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Does anybody know if the 1 1/8" Felt Jerry Springer fork will bolt on a '99/2000ish GT Dyno Duece (it has the threadless 1 1/8" fork) and/or what I need to make it fit?
I know there are 'cheaper' forks, but I would rather have 'better' than 'cheaper' if it really is (and I do want this one to be as simple as possible).
 
How about this........anyone with a Felt cruiser,are those a threadless fork? And especially for one with the Jerry Springer fork, can you tell me what the head measures (and maybe from the top of the fork at the bottom (where it goes into the head), and the top of the (either) fork stem nut or the top of the clamp on handlebar stem?
 
Thanx for that link.
I have to wonder though, since your new Felt Ab Linkage fork is threadless I would think their Jerry Springer would be too (I know, assume can be bad (UPDATE on that, it is threaded); if so I should be good to go as is long as the fork stem length is tall enough to get out the neck and take a threadless 1 1/8" stem. Even if it is threaded (as it looks to be on their site) shouldnt it fit up in the 1 1/8" 'threadless' bearing set and just tension it up with the topnut and use a quill handlebar stem?
The other 'aftermarket' springers I have found are threaded in both 1" and 1 1/8", I know Id need to convert the bearing set for a 1" so Id rather stay to 1 1/8" if one of those forks is as good (or even the same make) as what Felt is using.
I just hate buying wrong stuff........ :wink: .
 
I have done something similar in the past, pretty much on all my 1 1/8" headtube cruiser type bikes I use an FSA Fat Pig headset, usually can be had cheap, very rugged, and a decent seal. I never use a star nut unless it's already been installed but instead use Azonic or similar headlock(see link below) to tension the headset/spacers/stem together as I don't really like quill stems either. The head lockers really keep things together nice especially on MTBs, no creaking. Using the same headset I can swap forks near instantly. I've had an MTB suspension fork on the Roadmaster also. Run the Nirve with triple clamp and the Abe also. Being able to use spacers instead of cutting the threaded fork for the headset is a lot more flexible as well and if you want to sell the fork later always better to have more steerer tube left over.

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/19719-205_AZOH29-3-Parts-63-Headsets/Azonic-Headlock-2.htm
 
FWIW, ModeBikes informs me that the Felt Ab Linkage fork is threadless, and the Jerry Springer is threaded (the top spring mount need the extra 'cinch down' to keep it on?). They are 1 1/8" and have a 1" ID for the star washer or quill; a Wald shim for 7/8 to 1" can fit a 7/8" quill to one.
 
That extra "cinch down" has always been the problem with threaded, BMX used to have top-clamp headsets to address this and why I prefer just using a threadless headset regardless of the steerer tube type(the quill stem adds no benefit to holding the headset together), though I don't use star nuts. I think you'd need at least 7.5" of steerer tube to consider a threadless headset given a 5-5.25" headtube, and that wouldn't leave much wiggle room. You'd have to carefully select headset and stem for stack height. The Felt Abe linkage has 8.5" steer which gives me about 1" of spacers to play with on both the Nirve and Roadmaster using a BMX stem.

IMG_1737.jpg
 
SJ, Your info and links are great in helping me sort this out.
My Deuce c/w the threadless headset is a stack height of 6 1/8", and that is to the top of the dustcover where the next piece in line will sit. Currently the stock top triple tree is there. Now, I dont see anything much different, in practical terms, from a threaded headset, except it comes with no top tension adj. nut/race, washer(s) and locknut. I sure can see how your suggested 'headlock' would make this a snap and avoid that starnut, though on a roadbike, if I dont pull wheelies, I would still be OK, the stem typically locks it all together after adjustment (and, on mine, the top triple clamp also has a lockdown bolt at the steertube. I can set the HS tension and lock the T-clamp in place and be able to just pop the cap and pull the stem to swap out with another inc. a barset, or, in my case, flip it for a clubman/boardtracker look and stance. WAY easy!
With that lockdown set all through the steertube nothing can get away, but I think on the springer the pivot crossbolt runs right through the bottom, precluding its use (?). I will keep it in mind, for sure, as I like the idea (and did not even know such a thing existed), and can turn up my own top and bottom caps on the lathe and use an extra long bolt of choice.
It does look like I could pull my stem and maintain the HS tension with the T-tree, and I found a BMX(?) seatclamp that fits the OD of that steertube so it can be my 'safety' with some stack washers to hold downpressure.
With a 1" OD quill or a 7/8" shimmed to 1" I could swap 1" swell ctr. handlebars like a normal bike (that threadless stem is only for 7/8", and I have a pile of std. bicycle bars to choose from that currently dont fit!), yeah, I know, I could buy a stem to take 1" bars but thats another $40ish with shipping that I could better spend elsewhere :wink:
It was SOOO nice today for Jan. in WI, I messed about with the bikes (pulled the fork off the Deuce and put it back together so I would know 'what in the deuce' I was talkin' about), rode a short way up the country lane, and got groovin' on the Deuce with the fork as is; kinda remembered why I liked the bike in the first place. I just might not change it...........
Morph currently on hold :D .
 

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