Gravel Grinder Green Motobike 1930

Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum

Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Who makes that last set of bars?

5bd85a888188da227a994799369af0b9.jpg


Somewhat pricey for a $10 frame.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Can that style beflipped over? The extra bar looks obtusive.
Don’t think you’d want to flip that one, otherwise major steering issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
I found that I had another set of bars with a little less spread. The bottom set in photo. I put those on.
19490e25b0bd40f61b5517c575e3966d.jpg

7214ec54772ae8895f83c4e24c5d8216.jpg

Trying out one green grip.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I also added a headbadge that I had laying around. Flying Star model, frame by Schwinn. Also installed the chain by Bell, 44 X 22 gears, I’ll soon see how that works out.
a250fc3a8edb111ba4adc1fdc0c53257.jpg

0814f4d4f25b8668df53ea9ce823d200.jpg
6a1f5f265403be95de90d9711c88813b.jpg
864936b24bf43f95e16f1479e9e8f9de.jpg
fbf7354ed8a72a57b822811aaf49eef7.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
5bd85a888188da227a994799369af0b9.jpg


Somewhat pricey for a $10 frame.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I use these. Nice bars but you need a problem solvers shim. The soft aluminum shim allows the stem to really bite in so it doesn't slip. The correct problem solvers shim number used to be listed on Alan Bonds Clunkers site under clunker tips. I cut the ends down so they weren't as long. A "Y" (sling shot) old school mountain bike stem would work without the shim.
Turner Performance Products Steel Bars, Medium-Dirt Bike$24.99MotoSport.comFor most items:90-day return policy
 
Last edited:
A few trial doodads...an El Pato Salsa rat rod light and a Kikkerland dring dring bell from Galveston Island Bike Shop. More shades of green...black Persons pedals.
f77ac3c92388a9ed7edeb188a7868228.jpg
a87238b5d6c60300021363f5196b6cbf.jpg
8d52f6b774086cd62b34d6e4e467f8f0.jpg
35f3fcf6cf80b1e9e6e0b2724431091f.jpg
b52f7f604fe571343da47eb89dbff301.jpg

Having some issues with the 13/16” seat post fitting...it’s been clamped down on something smaller at some point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Maybe a u-turn is in order:bigsmile:

....pedals look good though
So you are a rat rod style expert...I’m doing fine thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I added a seat post and a recycled Brooks saddle today. A wet rainy day outside so no test ride.
f68ffc347aca4e0c2f146ee2f277c23b.jpg
95944492e506b871b3b5d07f2f587697.jpg
e476691af574b7dd673fa284bf90f315.jpg
446d6bcc67e1b1821aa158ea658d9679.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Wow, that leather looks fresh!
It was a shelf worn NOS B66 from a small rural bike shop maybe 10 years ago. It was mounted on the second summer build off bike that I did. It’s seen some miles but never really broken in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I still haven’t ridden this GGGM yet. The cartoon style can light may give way to an old carbide lamp if it will fit in the limited stem and rod space...to clean or not to clean.
5977d0cc6977f5cce8ca5d1ec0785a21.jpg
5dab416d78dd48b8c3e04031c348193e.jpg
5218bd3376d3fabaca052908d3561f62.jpg

I flipped the mounting bracket over, it remains to be seen if it will attach to the stem and fit between the truss rod ends. It will be tight.
If I change the light then the bell ought to be changed out also. Think I have a couple of options.
37ecb04d03dbd1aa6a0c60a5fba31bd2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hey, hey it fits...out with the can light in with the carbide lamp. Looks like it was made to fit, snug and compact.
3b34f2549b632b8dec4afb209488ac30.jpg
81e84d33beb0091378071cd5eb66cece.jpg
e4fcc5672dabefb27df880a239ae862b.jpg
73cb2e96a16a5bd7319ae0431fc94b04.jpg
d7b59ba9e3794b8903b7f1bc4190302d.jpg

Now then “purist” determines whether it might still work with water and carbide or “futurist” adapts to LED power. To be decided.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hey, hey it fits...out with the can light in with the carbide lamp. Looks like it was made to fit, snug and compact.
3b34f2549b632b8dec4afb209488ac30.jpg
81e84d33beb0091378071cd5eb66cece.jpg
e4fcc5672dabefb27df880a239ae862b.jpg
73cb2e96a16a5bd7319ae0431fc94b04.jpg
d7b59ba9e3794b8903b7f1bc4190302d.jpg

Now then “purist” determines whether it might still work with water and carbide or “futurist” adapts to LED power. To be decided.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Early 1900s road bike stage races like the Giro de Italia began their 430 KM stages at midnight and they used carbide lights. Most of this early riding was done on gravel or worse. No derailleurs, just a flip flop hub and wood rims to boot. Twenty miles of climb in the whole 1914 Giro on a bike similar to yours. I really like what you are doing, keeping it alive.
 
I plan to experiment with some different gear ratios as mine will be a SS. I have several sizes of rear cogs for starters.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have an old 1950s Columbia cruiser converted to a gravel bike with 700c wheels. It's single speed and I use 38 x 24 gearing which sounds low, and it is at first, but if you are on a 100K gravel event then you will be glad for this gearing, unless you are a fit young rider. I can ride a lot of single track with this gearing but you have to stand and attack. For the Ore to Shore mountain bike race I used 28 x 20 but that has hills. The O to S was ridden on a 1938 Colson based Klunker single speed. Most single speed mountain bike riders use 32 x 16 with 29 wheels. Try 32 x 16 or 36 and try different cogs (36 x 16 might be the sweet spot for a gravel clunker?). We have moderate hills in town and a lot of people convert their vintage cruisers to a 36 tooth front canning and use whatever came on the rear. The 24 tooth freewheel came from China and was like $5. It makes a clunk but has lasted about 4 years so far. The disadvantage is that there is really no way to get these cheap single speed freewheels easily off as they have dimples for tool placement, not slots like the Shimano. Problem is I could only find big cogs as cheap Chinese bits. To get it off you can destroy the cog by prying off the cover plate or by tack welding the freewheel to the gear. I have spares in case it blows but so far so good. I kept busting chains standing on steep hills. I finally went with a double step riveted 7 speed chain, which may or may not fit your gears, might be too narrow. You might have to use a spider and multi speed chain ring. This chain has not broken. I kept getting pinch flats on single track, despite Stan's Sealant in the tubes. 40 psi or more solved that problem with the 40 mm gravel tires. It's very hard to ride sand with 700c x 40 mm tires with 40 psi in them but not impossible if it's fairly flat and you bust a gut. Hope this helps. Im old, in my 70s, and my leg strength is way down but if you have gearing laying around somewhere in this range it would be a good place to start. Try 36 x 16 that might work for almost everything gravel. You'll spin out but you can also climb, choices.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top