LED conversion advice

[Phil Fink]

I have found that top-coats do not stick very well to the zinc primer - sometimes easy to peel off.
I suggested the zinc product for its electrical properties, application to a light fixture that uses the housing as a conductor.

 

[NoControl]

I have found that top-coats do not stick very well to the zinc primer - sometimes easy to peel off.
I suggested the zinc product for its electrical properties, application to a light fixture that uses the housing as a conductor.

Perhaps give the zinc primer a coat of self-etching primer?

 

[FreddyS]

I found another two, E10 rated at 3V, 5W/220+ lumens, or 3V, 1W/70 lumens, either or both would work with the 2 regular D-cells.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cree-LED-5-...nt-3-0V-60A-for-2-Cell-2-7-3-1V-/232297354464

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Epistar-LED...nt-3-0V-23A-for-2-Cell-2-7-3-1V-/232297351729

What is a lumen anyway. For the prices listed, one can get a repro-style chrome headlamp with 6-7 LEDs already built-in.

There is one more, 1W/140 lumens @ 1.2V-9V range, (1 to 6 batteries); I guess they would not fry if too many volts were applied.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-0W-LED-Up...ll-Flashlight-0-31A-1-2-9-Volts-/232341400730

These are the exact led lights I ordered. E10 3V. For the life of me I can’t get them to work on my tank lights. Even bypassing the switch does not help. I know the 2 D batteries should be sufficient juice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Duchess]

How is everything wired? You want the batteries in series (to get the two 1.5V batteries up to a 3V supply) and the lights in parallel (to keep that circuit at 3V instead of needing to provide the sum of the lights' voltage and so that if one light goes out, they don't all go out).

 

[Phil Fink]

You may test bulbs (LEDs) in a lighting fixture that does work first.
[This would demonstrate that the LED or LEDs work].
You may test your lighting fixture (tank) circuitry with a non-LED filament bulb or bulbs that do work first.
[This would demonstrate that the light fixture (tank) circuitry works].
If both those pre-checks work reliably, (every time, no tweaking/twisting/tapping), then the swapping of LEDs for bulbs, or swapping the test fixture for the lighting fixture under test, should work. If not, it may be a polarity problem, and swapping plus and minus wires may fix it, or more simply putting the batteries in reversed, (but not both - swapping wires and reversing batteries).
Some fixtures may not have two wires to swap, if the metallic housing is used as an electrical conductor.