Mint Chocolate Chip-A bike built for the Crested Butte Chainless World Champs (Finished)

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Got it all laced up. The spokes I found closest to the length I needed were slightly short. To compensate I used longer black nipples when lacing it up. Should work out, and it has given me an idea for the name/theme of the build, plus which direction to go with color. Now to true and tension!

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Trued and tensioned. Decided to run the rim brake, but not these ones as the reach is far too great...

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Dug around in the stash and played musical brakes for a minute. Had located a Weinmann Symetric brake, an early dual pivot caliper that provides good clamping power, but it too was too long in reach. Dug around a little more and found this Raleigh labelled caliper, made in Japan, that fits the polished aluminum and black motif of the other componentry. Should fit the bill...

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Went into work to play around with my kneepad setup. Found an old Coda flat bar, an adjustable Fuji stem, and some shims...

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Trimmed the bar, used a 1-1/8" to 1" threadless stem shim and clamped the trimmed down flatbar where the steerer would normally go on the stem. And installed the elbow pads from the aero bar setup.

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You can see the other stem shim I trimmed in half to clamp the stem to the seat tube. Then installed it on the frame, measuring the distance from my feet to knee, then knee to upper inseam area to make sure they were installed in the correct position, need some clearance ;)

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Setting up the brake now.
 
Thanks! Had the idea to use the aero bar pads for that purpose and saw the gravity bike guys are doing very similar things. The peg idea came from the friend I met last year mentioning using them and seeing a few of the top guys doing it, another thing the GB guys do. I am sure the chainless regulars get a few ideas fron them as well. My GF always says there is no such thing as an original idea!

Sent from my SM-G550T1 using Tapatalk
 
Here is a link to the course, on google maps.

https://goo.gl/maps/Xb3zJB6Qwh12

Just over 1000' of descending over 7 miles. Strava says its about a 2.8% grade average, so I have been searching for local descents that have a simar gradient and terrain to do my testing.

This is the strava segment for Kebler pass. Only difference is the finish where we end up on Elk Ave instead of Whiterock.

https://www.strava.com/segments/4565172

Thinking the run from Idledale to Morrison will be sufficient. Its a litte steeper on average but has more turns.

https://www.strava.com/segments/7306066

All this and I have boat hull construction and moto gp fairings on my mind...

Sent from my SM-G550T1 using Tapatalk
 
squirreldh said:
That I have not! The rules are fairly open. No pedalling. Thats about it. Those with coaster brakes are required to tie the chain to the chainring so they can still brake. I am considering sand, as I have a bag of play sand with no purpose at the moment. I am wondering how it will affect the ride, if it will make the frame feel "dead" those tubes are hollow for a reason...

I need to weigh my higgins and see where it is at, maybe shoot for that as a goal for this ride, though I did have weight on my back which I would prefer to put on the bike... or maybe I should wear a scuba divers weight belt...

I think I need to get it assembled so I can start testing asap. Make these decisions after the tests.

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Click to expand...
One thing I remember from my Pinewood Derby days is that you want to have the extra weight up front and down low. Filling the handle bars would work but the lower the better. A 30lb+ fork might be all you need to do the trick.
 
Georgeediii said:
One thing I remember from my Pinewood Derby days is that you want to have the extra weight up front and down low. Filling the handle bars would work but the lower the better. A 30lb+ fork might be all you need to do the trick.
Click to expand...

Wait...that's not right! High and to the rear provides greater potential energy and descends the incline for a significantly longer period of time. The trade-off is increased instability. It works for Pinewood cars, but on a bicycle course, probably doesn't give much of an advantage.
 
RustySprockets said:
Wait...that's not right! High and to the rear provides greater potential energy and descends the incline for a significantly longer period of time. The trade-off is increased instability. It works for Pinewood cars, but on a bicycle course, probably doesn't give much of an advantage.
Click to expand...
No wonder I never won those races!
 
Started building the front wheel. The rim I had was 36 hole and the high flange formula hub was 32. So i went digging and found this old specialized low flange bolt on hub. Dug through all my spokes and found I had black ones in the correct length to lace it radially. I used silver alloy nipples, help tie the wheel into the whole silver and black motif.

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Planning on swapping the rear axle with one from this broken track hub. It is longer for accomodating the bmx pegs I plan on installing.

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Overhauling the rear hub and swapping the axle over now. Should have enough room to attach the pegs.

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Well, I just say this and thank you for sharing this unique experience and ride! Who'd of thunk it?!
 

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