No. 3 build ready to kick off...

Discussion in 'GAS POWERED BIKES' started by PeteMcP, Dec 3, 2017.

  1. PeteMcP

    PeteMcP

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    Thanks Jim.
    This latest ride is all about comfort. Bars and seat were specifically chosen just for that reason. Dearly love my Indian boardie rep, but boy, its vintage Brooks saddle numbs my butt after a half hour sat aboard.
    DECOLINER is a way more upright ride and more comfortable for it, but again, my butt just mustn't be capable of appreciating whatever it is a Brooks saddle is designed to provide. I'd score these saddles 10/10 for their vintage vibe, but comfort-wise, that gel-filled Selle saddle I fitted to build no. 3 wins hands down. I bet I can sit on that all day long without having to 'twerk' to get the blood flowing to my nether regions...:grin:
     
  2. toro1978

    toro1978

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    I believe it is pretty importat what springs You got and how soft they have gotten with time. If I am not mistaken different models have different stiffness and are meant for different weight. I have a big saddle with really soft springs on my fat cruiser and it is insanely comfrtable even after hours. On my light cruiser I have a different saddle with a smaller plate and siffer springs and after a while I have to move a bit around on it, to switch cheeks so to say. It also makes a huge difference at what angle the saddle is mounted, is the nose too low or too high, it determines where on the saddle and where on your muscles the weight rests. Kind of like with the bars, You need to find Your sweet spot. You also have that long bolt on the saddle frame, under the nose, that You can play with. If the seat is not new You could also oil the leather a bit underneath with some saddle fat. I would suggest don't give it up yet, play with it until You get it right and You will be probably quite happy with it.
     
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  3. PeteMcP

    PeteMcP

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    FRAME SCHEDULED TO GO BACK TO THE WELDERS ON TUESDAY...
    Finished-up work on the aluminium frame, so now it's scheduled to return to welder Paul on Tuesday to have the various fillets and bracketry attached. Pic shows these parts mocked-up in position. I've drilled the seat tube near the bottom bracket to accept alloy tubes which really positively locate the motor's rear mount-cum-jackshaft frame. Similar arrangement on the right side of the lower top tube to securely attach the hand shift's quadrant. Once everything's welded-up, this will be a strong enough frame to cope with the 125cc's output .
    Check out how this bike's personality can be changed just via the addition of a removable rear rack and headlight.
    Finally bit the bullet and purchased a set of fenders for this build. Not even sure if I want to bother fitting a front fender - so they'd better be worth it!

    FSCN3829.JPG RSCN3827.JPG RSCN3830.JPG
     
  4. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    Beautiful work Pete!
     
  5. Dr. Tankenstein

    Dr. Tankenstein

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    This build is brilliant!
    Looks like a vintage touring bike to me.
    Nice comfy cruiser.


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  6. PeteMcP

    PeteMcP

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    INSTRUMENTATION THOUGHTS...
    Hadn't ever given any thought regarding instrumentation on Build No. 3. Until now that is...
    During a recent online search for grips I was checking out Enfield County's website (a company in India producing umpteen cool parts for Royal Enfield motorcycles and many other marques) when I stumbled across their range of neat hand-crafted brass trinkets - including this 3" dia. compass/sun-dial pictured. Couldn't resist a punt at an oh-so-cheap 11 quid including shipping to the UK. Should look cool mounted up-front-and-centre on Build No. 3's handlebars. Being one of several brass highlights sported on this bike, this in turn has led me to draw-up a shortlist of potential names for this ride. Namely: "The Seeker", "Searcher", "Brass'd Off" or "Gnomean Feat". (This last name being a play on the fact the motor is a vintage '46 Gnome Rhone two-smoker and the tank will be decaled as such). Early days, so any other suggestions welcomed.
    RSCN3836.JPG
     
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  7. PeteMcP

    PeteMcP

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    FRAME BACK FROM WELDERS. TANK NOW PAINTED...
    Collected the completed frame from welder Paul after he finished-up TIG-ing the water-jet profiled fillets and brackets to their respective locations. Happy how this turned out? You bet. Been prevaricating over whether to paint the frame RAL Mint Turquoise or Black but looking at how this neatly assembled mainframe unit turned out, I seriously feel like polishing it rather than paint it.
    While the frame was away, I took the opportunity to prime, paint and clear-coat the tank, air filter's shroud and fenders using RAL Opal Green and Black, set-off with a gold strip and those nifty polished alloy trim strips. (Gnome Rhone decals still to be applied to tank sides after the clear-coat has fully cured). Seeing the result, I can't bring myself to go with my original 'Patina'd' idea, so that'll have to be postponed for another build. Oh well - even best laid plans change. Nothing new there.
    Shot some hurried pics in between today's rain showers to show how things are progressing. (Note: alloy trim strips yet to be fitted to tank's left side).

    FSCN3839.JPG FSCN3840.JPG FSCN3838.JPG
     
  8. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    Truly a work of art! Bravo!:41:

    How do you plan to paint the rear triangle?
     
  9. PeteMcP

    PeteMcP

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    Thanks Jim. Glad you approve.
    Much as I'm loathe to hide the 'stack of dimes'-style welding beads on the aluminium section of this frame under a coat of paint, I reckon I'll have to if I want the rear suspension triangle to seamlessly compliment and blend in with the mainframe. It's just that I'm often prone to getting caught up in over-thinking which colour scheme to go with. Just now I'm looking at the separation line between the black and green on the tank and thinking of continuing the black onto that corresponding upper front area of the frame. Rest of the frame from there rearwards - including the triangle - in Mint Turquoise, a lighter green shade than the tank.
    Oh and by the way, while at the welders, I had Paul apply a couple of TIG tack welds to my modified inlet manifold. That should help allay some of your earlier fears about my 'aluminium brazed' joint potentially coming adrift and the carb going awol mid-ride.
    Can also confirm that the relevant alloy parts for the motor mounts have now been welded to the lower frame loop; meaning the motor now effectively acts as a stressed member, relieving the bent-up portion of the frame tube under the motor of any load-bearing duties. All's good.
     
  10. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    I believe the frame would look good in its raw form with the rear triangle painted black.

    Also on the subject of welding, stress etc., I was wondering if you had crush sleeves welded into the frame where the shifter bolts pass through.
     
  11. PeteMcP

    PeteMcP

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    Also on the subject of welding, stress etc., I was wondering if you had crush sleeves welded into the frame where the shifter bolts pass through.[/QUOTE]

    Am I right in thinking by 'crush tubes', these might be what I know as rivnuts? If so, I've used a rivnut to locate the fuel tap on the lower top tube.
    For the shifter quadrant's location, I drilled the lower top tube and had Paul weld a pair of machined alloy tubes in place, through which the 2 x fixing bolts pass. Too dark to shoot a pic - but I'll try to post one tomorrow showing the shifter's attachment points.
     
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  12. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    I may be calling it by the wrong name but you described what I was talking about. Tubes welded in place for the bolts to pass through.
     
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  13. Dr. Tankenstein

    Dr. Tankenstein

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    This just keeps getting better every update.
    Build on brother!


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  14. PeteMcP

    PeteMcP

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    Thanks DT.
    Jim, hopefully this pic shows the pair of alloy tubes welded thru the top tube to provide a solid foundation for the shifter quadrant.

    RSCN3843.JPG
     
  15. RustyGold

    RustyGold

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    Spectacular :43:... that bike is going to really pop when it is polished.

    Jason
     
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  16. PeteMcP

    PeteMcP

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    Thanks Jason.
    Rear suspension triangle does look great painted black. Now I'm thinking the headstock area of the frame - in line with the green/black separation of the tank - would look cool painted black.

    FSCN3846.JPG FSCN3847.JPG FSCN3848.JPG FSCN3849.JPG

    I have fenders and a rack for this build too. Fitting them changes the entire look of this ride. Love the vintage bobber look though....
    Feeling under pressure now to quit working on this project and start making a dent in the packing prior to our move to sunny Spain. Should be winging our way there in 7-8 weeks. Gulp...!
     
  17. The Renaissance Man

    The Renaissance Man __CERTIFIED DIVER__ (Open Water & Open Dumpster) Pro Member

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    Looks tough!
     
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  18. Dr. Tankenstein

    Dr. Tankenstein

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    Man, this is just an awesome build!


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  19. RustyGold

    RustyGold

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    It would look cool with the paint following the green\black separation. I like how, currently, the main frame assembly is book-ended by the front and rear black sub assemblies...and then the engine is framed by the...well...frame :wondering:.

    Your vision has been impeccable, so far...just keep listening to the voices in your head :grin:, they haven't steered you wrong yet!

    Jason
     
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  20. PeteMcP

    PeteMcP

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    'GNOME RHONE' Tank decal applied....
    Tank decals and brass faux oil filler cap finish off this build's tank nicely.
    FSCN3853.JPG FSCN3860.JPG
     

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