NonGoose 26 BMX project

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I wanted to make a 26" and thus rideable version of the iconic 1970's era Mongoose MotoMag BMX Bike. I know someone else has already done this before but it was not my main goal to be the first guy to make a 26 copy of a 20" BMX, that is happening a lot now a days...

While I could have paid to have the dropouts and other sundries made my main goal was to use the tools I already had at my disposal. I wanted to make 1 but figured if I could make 1, I could do 10. As I go along I need to improve upon my TIG skills and making 10 bikes at the same time would be a great way to force some long practice stints.

First I was playing around with a sheet metal sheer and break to figure out the rear triangle piece. I was using a thinner piece of metal to work out the shape as I plan on making it about 1" longer than the 20" version so it scales up to 26" nicely. One snag was the the head tube gusset and rear triangle bracket were dimple died. A full set of dies was 350 bucks about so I did not want to spend that kind of coin on something I'd most likely never use again. But hey, I have metal, and bearing races all over the place. And I happened to have a couple bottle jacks laying around from a home improvement projects so why not make one?

Non Goose Project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

I played around with a bunch of different bearing races until I got a good one.

Made a frame, the jack kept bending it and it took a while to get the metal to guide well enough to come out ok. Keep in mind it is not as nice but is a zero dollar tool and the jack is not ruined in the process.

Non Goose Project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

Non Goose Project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

Not so bad! Thicker metal will most likely behave differently. I will see on that one. These are for seeing the shape of the hole only, I know they are not centered.

Non Goose Project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr''

Non Goose Project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

So I need to get the shape just right on that one, not there yet.

Today I tired to get the dropouts done since I figured it would be the hardest part.

I took some thin metal and made a template:

Non Goose Project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

After I traced them out on some thicker sheet. I tried to cut this stuff with the shear but it was too thick. I made a cheater bar but could feel my mid section tearing from pulling so hard so I went with skinny cut off wheels and burned through about 15 of them to get the rough shapes.

Non Goose Project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

After that I paired them up and made them even to each other with a flap-wheel. While they all don't match each other, I have 10 matching pairs so each bike they will look ok on. I drilled a hole for the dropout and then made a tool to hold them in my chop saw where I finished the rough cut of the dropout. Some filing was needed to get them evened out and then over to the drill press with a hole saw to make the back round cut. The OG factory ones were made with a stamping die and mine are done by hand so they are not perfect but will do the job. Much thicker then the factory ones.

Anyway, that took a while.

I have each set in my polisher to de-burr them.

Non Goose Project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

My plan is to make all the brackets first. Next up should be the finished rear triangle piece.
 
Haha well, we'll see right? Man those dropouts took forever....I'll try and do a weekly update. ;)
 
So today I went ahead and tried to make the seatstay bracket. First I made a blank out of thinner metal and then cut 10 blanks from some much thicker stock.

IMG_0647 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

my thinner blank.

IMG_0648 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

it looked like it would do the job after I made some cuts with some hole saws. It will be a little longer than the OG 20" version for reasons that will come into play later.

Pile of blanks. I used my chop saw to make the cuts, it went way faster than using a cut off wheel let me tell you...

IMG_0649 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

I ran into some snags. The sheet metal break I have was not up to the task of bending this metal to after I made all my cuts I put each one in my vice and formed them with a hammer. After I hit them with the flap wheel to take out the hammer marks.

IMG_0653 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

Also my little dimple die machine was not stout enough to handle the thick plate. I think I will have to either forgo the dimple die in the back or use the thinner material I have and start over. Once I get it closer to assembly time we'll see... So after all that I may have to try a different way, no biggie, exploration is the fun part after all.

You can see it just made a mar upon the metal, too thick! The og factory ones are way thinner than what I am trying to use.

IMG_0650 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

So they look ok without the dimple die...

IMG_0651 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

To see if what I made fit I bent up a couple loops. They are about 3/4 wider than the 20" bike. That may be a problem, I think 4 inches is the max Q factor I can have to have a set of cranks clear the frame. I can keep the seat stay bigger and cut the chain stay one down a bit in the center. I only have the one 5/8 die. I have a smaller 1/2 die but the goose has 5/8 tubing so I want to stick with that.

IMG_0652 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

After I kissed the brackets with a flap wheel they mate up pretty good.

IMG_0654 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr
 
Thanks, I worry I'll sped a lot of time making all the pieces and none of it will fit well or look good together. We'll see....
 
So I went to work on the rear sections. I was trying to bend up some loops and discovered that you have to align the seam in the metal in the bender near the top otherwise you kink the tubing. After wasting about 5 loop sections I figured this out. After I made the loops I measured them and they are too wide for a lower. I could cut them and shrink them down but decided to just use thinner diameter tubing that I could make a tighter bend on a smaller die, a compromise but one I could live with. Hope the frames aren't too whippy when you stand out of the saddle.

IMG_0675 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

What I learned:

Go slow. Rushing things got my hands whacked by my drill...I like to knock things out but hey I need my hands man...

I copied the dropouts from a 20" bike and they did not line up exactly like the 20 version in relation to the stays... But they will look ok I think.

IMG_0678 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

IMG_0682 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

To slot the metal, I made this tool out of a cheap grinder and some of my aborted attempts to bend tubing. I think I need to fine tune the idea some more but it is getting there...

IMG_0676 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

IMG_0677 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

Got a seat tube and bb shell in place to figure out the whole thing..

IMG_0679 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

IMG_0680 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

IMG_0681 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

So I have 9 tacked together now, I ran out of metal for number 10... I'm going to leave them loose until I get the front triangles together and mate the two...We'll see...

IMG_0696 by Paul de Valera, on Flickr
 
I think they will be all snatched up by my crew, 4 are already spoken for and most don't know about it yet. If there are spares they will be up for grabs....
 
Front triangles are all welded up.

non goose project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

hours of TIG, the intense concentration I need to expend made my super tired! Next I will need to make the gusset plates for the front end. I plan on welding them in place before I join the two halves, it will be easier to manipulate 1/2 a bike.

The heavy duty brake brideg were too long. I did not like them anyway. A smaller one, closer to the OG one will be made instead.

non goose project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

Just a teaser shot of what it may look like...

non goose project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr
 
Box O Cheez-its eaten and here we are:

non goose project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

I did not have a hole saw big enough to make an exact replica of the gusset but I am ok with how it looks:

non goose project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

Used my homemade dimple die machine to decent effect too, a real set would be nice someday but I don't see myself needing that tool too often to justify the expense.

Before I ruin the gussets I did some practice on thin metal...

non goose project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

I started tacking them in place... more later

non goose project by Paul de Valera, on Flickr
 
Headtube gussets all welded up...

non goose by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

From a year ago my welds have gotten way better. Still have many miles to travel on that road however..:)

Made the cigar boxes for behind the bb shell:

non goose by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

I then tacked the rear triangles together, got 8 out of 10 tacked now. One was too long and one is unfinished.

non goose by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

Once I get the frame tacked together I'll have to make sure they are straight before I finish welding them up. Without a proper fixture getting the frame straight is the biggest challenge....

non goose by Paul de Valera, on Flickr

Coming together pretty quick, should have them 90% finished in the next week if things line up well for me.....

non goose by Paul de Valera, on Flickr
 
So is weld quality based mostly on experience or on the quality of equipment that is being used....or both?

Trying to understand how some welders get this level of results in their work...

HAZ-welding-600x416.jpg
 

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