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Zambales, Philippines
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I haven't used so many contractions since I was in the Air Force years ago. This is a frame discarded when a bike shop folded about 5 or 6 years ago. All the unsold new frames and other stuff went to the scrap heap. Over here in the Philippines, that's a big warehouse area with tons and tons of scrap that never gets sent away. It's all there waiting to be reused somehow. Some stuff is from WW2.
This frame never had anything attached, nothing except the bearing caps on the headtube.
longframe2 (2).JPG

As some other members here pointed out, it's a clone of an EZ Racer. It's straight and has no damage. A pair of old chrome forks, also from that bike shop was there so I picked them up too, for 2 bucks. They are the only ones that fit the 6.5 inch headtube, and may have been the ones for that bike. it's set up for a skinny 26" rear wheel. I have 24" on front and back for a mock up.
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I will try to use the parts at hand to make most of it. I'll use the 24" wheels, but not sure about the SRAM 2 speed, maybe. My plan now is to have it look like a recumbent bike from the 30's or 40's. A cotterered crankset with old looking components will look like an early bike.
DSCI0012.JPG

I may just wire brush the frame and fork, clearcoat and leave it at that. The fork will need some bending to get the right angles with the 24" wheel. It's big enough for a skinny 26" like the rear. A 20" wheel would be just right with about 2 inches of trail. I think that was the original idea, like an EZ Racer. As is it's got 6 inches of trail and the pedals will hit the wheel.
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I could have the forks bent a few inches to get the trail to about 3 inches, but a home made springer would do the same thing without risking ruining the fork. It would give the extra few inches forward for the wheel. I'm also thinking of using extensions on the rear dropouts to raise the seat a few inches and get a better rake to the front. I think the 24" front and back will look good and ride well. I still have seat, handlebars, and brakes to work out yet. I'm trying to give it a vintage look so anyone seeing it will think it's from the 30's. But it will ride well and hopefully be pretty fast.

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I did a mockup with 26" wheels and MTB tires to see what it would look like. My springer doesn't have enough threads to work, it's just sitting in there. But it shows the angles and the trail is workable like that, with the rear raised with the other extensions. I could fit my 3 inch tires this way. I want the seat a little higher than the usual recumbent but still able to easily have my feet on the ground. At this height is just about right. I won't use these wheels, I still want older looking parts.
The length is 103 inches like this. Getting it in and out of the house might be a problem, or getting it to a place to be able to ride away from heavy traffic.

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Here's a second one, using a 24" frame as a donor for the rear, along with a big 26" frame to make it a stretch. I'm toying with the idea of keeping the cantilevers from the donor frame intact.

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Here's a second one, using a 24" frame as a donor for the rear, along with a big 26" frame to make it a stretch. I'm toying with the idea of keeping the cantilevers from the donor frame intact.

View attachment 139432
That'll be cool
 
It's going to take some time, parts are tough to get now, and I'm involved in upgrades to my new place here. They just finished my dirty kitchen out back and front enclosure area. Now I'm tasked with ideas for my work space.
house 9-17-2020.JPG

Heading down to the valley will be a nice ride, but getting a big heavy bike back up the mountain might be a chore.
 
This ez racer clone is one my next projects.
frame.JPG


I saw some heavy duty 20" wheels being made up at the bike shop and couldn't beat the price. 3 Wheels tubes and tires together for 20 bucks.
wheels.JPG

Arava?
araya.JPG


They are heavy, like worksman wheels so I bought three with a sidehack idea in mind.
IMG_3157-1024x682.jpg

This bike has a 16" sidewheel, but with three 20" wheels, I'll have the seat height at 24", just above the tire it should be a good riding postion. I will have to modify the rear drops to get the height right, it's made for a narrow 26" wheel. That will get the trail to the right spot also. A footrest for the rider could also be a support bar. It'll need some storage under the seat for snacks and drinks.

Instead of two separate seats, I'm thinking of one bench seat for both riders with the seat frame serving as support for the sidecar.
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Those arayas are nice, I don't think I've seen them with the name on the side like that. I wonder if they were designed for hub brakes, as opposed to rim brakes
 
Bwahahaha my phone strikes again, couldn't see that in the picture. I wish I could do a screenshot that could show how badly cracked my phone is. Flew out the car window and slid into a curb at 60+ km/h.
My lack of reading skills on the other hand, are inexcusable!
 
These wheels are made up to be workhorses on sidecars and carts, they usually get band brakes on bikes. Two of mine have those kind of hubs, the third one won't have any brakes, probably the sidehack wheel.

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I'm back to this recumbent bike again. I've got a new fork, 26", and 20" wheel for the front. The rear is a 26" with 7 speed cluster and 1.50 tire. This is just to get an idea of what I might do with it.

easyracer 28 Jul 21.jpg
 
There's just enough clearance for the front wheel and the pedal. But my foot might contact the tire in a turn. I noticed the original easyriders had more of a bend near the lower part of their forks, adding a little space. I might put a slight bend in the tongs.
mockup 29 Jul 21.jpg
 
In think it's configured for a 16" front wheel, like the easy racers use. The frame was angled a little upward so I think a bend might put it just right. The pics I've seen of the real ones show almost level bottom tubes.
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I'm going to think up a name for this build sometime soon. The wheel I wanted to use in the front has a hub made for the rear, it's too wide and I don't want to spread the forks open that much.
wide hub.jpg


I have the match for the red rear hub, so I'm going to try to lace it in to the wheel using the same spokes. It fits the fork nicely.

wheels.jpg


The 20" wheel is laced 4 cross, so I may have to go to 3 cross (which is just as strong) for the red hub to lace up with the same spokes. I'll use the spoke calculator and see how the different size hubs work out with the same spoke length.

rims.jpg
 
I checked the original 20" wheel, the calculator was right on, spokes are 179mm. For the smaller red hub, it gave 180mm for 4 cross, or 174mm for 3 cross. I went with 3 cross because the extra spoke length will be inside the rim but below the rim strip. That's an advantage to the deep V rims, but lacing spokes is harder, you need to feed the nipples in the recess with another spoke to attach each spoke.
I tightened the spokes little by little to keep the tension as close as possible. But it still was nowhere near true. That's a job for the guys at the bike shop. That gives me an excuse to get out of the house, still have a lot of restrictions here, but I can travel now, got my vax card.
 

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