Skip tooth chain revisit

[Cliff]

Sorry about double posting . I originally put this question in the "how to" forum accidentally, but meant to put it here for more traffic.
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I've searched the forum and have read previous threads related to breaking a skip tooth chain. I'm not having any luck with one at the moment, so thought I'd ask once again. Mine has a master link. The plates are clearly different than the other links; more oval than "figure eight" in shape. I've never worked with a skip tooth master link before and I am not sure which plate is the male and which is the female side. Regardless, flexing the links sideways (perpendicular the the long axis of the chain) doesn't seem to move the pins much, and I still can't tell the male and female sides of the link. No amount of prying against the plates with a screw driver, grunting, mouth position, tongue in or out, or foul language has convinced this little item to give up the grip it has on the rest of the chain (and me). Thus, at the same time I apologize for asking this question again, I wonder if anyone has any words of wisdom or if magically a new trick for opening the master link has been discovered since the previous threads related to the same topic.

Thanks for any help/advice.

Cliff

 

[JLarkin]

At this point you probably need to get it off the bike to deal with it. Here is how I drive a pin out of a regular link:

1. Find a scrap of 2x4.
2. Drill a shallow hole in it with a 1/4" bit.
3. Lay one end of a chain link over the hole with a pin directly over the hole.
4. Take a nail set (that you sink finish nails into wood trim with) and drive the pin through the link.
5. The nail set is tapered so you cannot drive the pin all the way out. Use a 10 penny nail to drive the pin further through the link and stop just before it goes all the way through. You want just a bit still in the link. If it goes all the way through, you may be through as well. Not good.
6. Flex the link, separate it from the adjoining link and remove the chain from the bike frame.
7. To put it back together, reverse the process and finish it by squeezing in a vise.

Now you can have the chain on the bench.

You may simply need to oil soak the master link more with penetrating oil. I always have luck using a screwdriver to pop the master link apart. The side of the master link with flat sides should be the removable side. The side that is more figure 8 shaped houses the pins. Good luck.

 

[Walker]

I have a skinny flat blade screwdriver that I wedge into the master link to pry off the female side of the link. It's one of those three handed jobs where you have to flex the chain and pry with the screwdriver.

Once you get a little lateral movement with the screwdriver it should be evident which side comes off.

 

[icyuod2]

I've typed this out 3 times and got booted from the forum 3 times.

so here's the short sweet version

this is what you are dealing with.
pins are pinched together, plate installed, the the pins snap back to lock it in place.
You should be able to find the plate side based on the grooves in the pin's

1. get a good new pair of plyers (new the better, rounded off edges will work against you)
2. place one side of the plyers on the master link pin, the other side on the plate.
3. squeeze plyers.
4. repeat process from the opposite side (same side of the chain-other pin touching the plyers)
by now it should be free enough of corosion to go to step 5.
5. flex chain toward the plate to free master link. (you can also use the aid of a small flat screwdriver at this point.)

 

[Cliff]

Thanks, I completely understand this as well as the other explanations and appreciate everyone chiming in on a question I know has come up in the past. Perhaps a sticky is in order.

As a point of clarification, my difficulty discerning the male and female sides of the master link I'm dealing with here stems from the fact that both plates are oval in shape, identical to the plate sitting on the work surface in the first picture in this reply from icuod2. Thanks for the pics BTW.

I'll use more PBB and try prying using plyers on the plate and end of the pin.

Thanks again.

C

I've typed this out 3 times and got booted from the forum 3 times.

so here's the short sweet version

this is what you are dealing with.
pins are pinched together, plate installed, the the pins snap back to lock it in place.
You should be able to find the plate side based on the grooves in the pin's

1. get a good new pair of plyers (new the better, rounded off edges will work against you)
2. place one side of the plyers on the master link pin, the other side on the plate.
3. squeeze plyers.
4. repeat process from the opposite side (same side of the chain-other pin touching the plyers)
by now it should be free enough of corosion to go to step 5.
5. flex chain toward the plate to free master link. (you can also use the aid of a small flat screwdriver at this point.)

 

[icyuod2]

some of em do look the same on both sides.

ok some things to look for to help you out.
1.the smaller diameter side of the pin's.
one end would have been pressed out a little to prevent the link from falling apart, the other has to allow the plate to be removed.

2. you pinch the pins together to install the plate. so look for the side that will
a. slide back and forth a little.
b. the side with holes in the plate just a little closer together.
c. small open area's between the center of the pin's on the plate.
(they where pinched to install, and you might be able to spot this free play.)
you might also be able to notice the grooves on the pin in this ame area.
d. oval holes in the plate.
3. if the chain has never been removed, chances are the plate will be on the crank side of the chain (easier to install work on)

hth