SLIVER

[jodphoto]

Hey Folks.

So, you may remember this pile of parts from BO9. The Forum boss felt I could start over for BO10 with the same pile. I guess being a half-fast mechanic has its advantages. Here are the pictures of the original bike, and the old parts collection.

Well, the concept has changed for BO10. Still in the “Other Bikes” category. Fixed gear and skinny wheels. Nothing but bicycle. It’s a 70’s British Raleigh frame with an 80’s Japanese drivetrain. In hot rod history this is like a deuce with a flathead V-8 and the extra parts thrown away.

Last weekend I shaved the cable stops and guides and removed the brake bridge. I stripped the frame with Aircraft Stripper and worked the surface with a wire wheel, sandpaper and WD 40 with coarse steel wool. The WD40 should permeate the steel and slow the rusting. The final finish will be Johnson’s Paste Wax. The half chromed fork with the cast crown was kinda cool and the brazing was strangely arty as well. The crank is Sugino RT, the seatpost is SR Laprade, the brake is an SR too. The brake lever has already changed.

The assembly has begun. Waiting for a few small parts.

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Love the look of that frame in bare steel!
Welcome to the build-off, only 3 weeks left!

Luke.

 

[DC4L]

Nice looking frame!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Georgeediii]

The frame looks better with the brake bridge removed. I've always wondered how structural those things are.

 

[Kevin Kanouff]

Welcome! I also have an old steel road frame. Thanks for the idea.

 

[kingfish254]

Welcome back

 

[jodphoto]

Thanks for the comments.

I first got the raw steel bug from RRB so, my hat's off to the forum for that. I love the look. Lots of shades. Whoever originally brazed this frame though, must have stopped off at the pub first.

I researched the brake bridge and the consensus is that it has minimal effect on stability or strength. Especially without a brake torquing on it. Plus, these seat stays wrap around the seat post so there's more than a tiny braze holding them on.

The stem and brake lever have changed. Also the bars. I chopped and flopped a set of Nitto bars and found a nice little 4-1/2" brake lever off a CBC Ross Europa. If it will stop that heavy bike with it's steel rims and clunky calipers, it should work fine on Sliver. I'm waiting for a BB so I can adjust the frame for the chain line and assemble the drive train.

Then more pictures.

Three weeks is good. I got this.

 

[jodphoto]

I got a decent chainline using a BB that kept the chain ring real close to the frame. Then I ground off the bosses for the second ring because they were hitting the chain stay. Then, removed all spacers from the rear axle to keep it skinny and cold set (bent) the frame into alignment. It's a freewheel hub with a track cog held on by a bottom bracket retaining ring and some blue thread locker (AKA suicide hub) Then I dished and trued the wheels.

I hit the parts bin again for bars and a seat. The bars are flipped and clipped Nitto Randonneurs off a science fair project of mine from around 2000. Brakes are unknown labeled SC. Levers off a Ross Europa. The seat is a Fuji Feather which is austere looking (and feeling too, according to my butt). I was going to buy an old Brooks in black but
A. it seemed too fancy pants for this bike and
B. I'm too cheap.

Pedals, chain, tires, bar wrap and some polishing and it will be ready to ride. Oh, and a brake cable.

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Bare metal fixie!

Luke.

 

[Funkme]

Bare later than never.
Last minute entries are always interesting.
Besides I think most of us rush to finish in the end.
Welcome to the fun.

 

[Chad T]

Looks like a fun hot rod.

 

[jodphoto]

Thanks for the comments. RRB was a wake up call a few years back. I would "upgrade" everything. It was stupid. When I saw your bikes, I tuned in and turned on to the beauty of the classic steel and the creativity of the group. I am grateful for this.

Luke, she prefers to be called a Nude Fixed Gear Lady Rat. She told me this.

Funk, I embarrassed myself last year by never finishing. So this year I made sure I had all the parts before I entered. I didn't of course but at least I didn't have to build wheels.

Chad, I think it will be a comfortable fast(ish) ride. It's way longer than my other bikes. I am keeping it rat and keeping it real.

 

[jodphoto]

Well here it is. It rides nice. I took this picture first in case I wrecked it.

Fixed gear 52/20

It’s a ‘74 Raleigh Grand Prix frame made in Worksop, England. The braze-ons were shaved and the brake bridge removed. The frame was stripped using Aircraft stripper and cleaned with a wire wheel on a die grinder. Steel wool was used to apply WD40 and let dry. Two coats. Johnson's Paste Wax was applied using a shoe brush and dried in the sun, buffed out with a cloth and then repeated.

The drive train is mostly 80’s Japanese.
Except :
Tange cartridge bottom bracket which is new.
Rear cog is new aftermarket.
An unknown brand brake lever from a Ross.
Kenda K36 27 x 1-1/8 tires
Bottom of headset is new. Top is original Raleigh.
The brake cable housing is off an old Schwinn. I liked that it was ribbed and matched the skinwalls.
The nickel plated chain is just bling.

The rest is 80’s Japanese stuff:
Ukai rims with Sunshine hubs.
Sugino RT cranks
SR Laprade seatpost
SR Stem
SR Randonneur handlebar flipped and clipped
Bridgestone self centering brakes
Fuji Feather saddle
Pedals are MKS

The cranks were 320 wet sanded to remove some of the shine and then waxed.
I wrapped the bar in old inner tubes.
I left the rear axle long.
Of course, the crank caps are left off.

Participating in BOTEN has been a blast. All the AMAZING bikes here are inspiring and I hope each build I do brings me a bit further along. Thanks for your talents which you all share generously. I'm going to look at more bike pictures now.

Peace.

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Congrats on finishing, beautiful bike!

Luke.