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It's simple to do and doesn't require good welding skills or additional tubing. Cut the two canteliver tubes away from the down tube and away from the seat tube. Then using one of those ratcheting tie-down straps, wrap it around the seat tube and the rear dropouts and tightened it up until the seat tube is pulled back and resting on the rear fender/brake brace that's between the rear stays. Where all the tubing is now making contact weld it back together on the underside of the bike and then cut off the extra cantilever tubes that are now extending past the down tube. Leave the bearing cups and crank in place when manipulationg the bike. The bottom bracket is the weak spot and will collapse instead of the rest of the bike bending.
It makes a subtle change in the look of the bike and gives you the option of a low-rider because it actually lowers the bike or add chopper forks long enough to get the bottom bracket back up to normal height.
Last edited by aka_locojoe on Tue May 18, 2010 7:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.
just don't know what to say either. what does that have to do with bending a bike frame. oh, now i got it. take a tie down an put it around your wife an tighten till she bends, is that forward or backwards? honey, wheres my tie down straps
Hey this is a great tip, this will be the first thing that is done to my bike. I was trying to think of how I can run my seat further back, this seems like the antidote.
Just rememer it's more of an asthetic chop. You're shortening the bike some.
That is true, but it would also put my feet out infront a little more to wouldnt it?
Yes but it doesn't change the distance to the crank.
thats fine. I more or less wanted to move the pedals forward a bit so my knees wouldnt crack and pop when I rode with my seat slammed, yet wanted my seat lower and back for the sick look.
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