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My dad (Fireproof) and I are building a new OCC chopper to replace my bike that was stolen after this year's Rat Bike Rodeo. Look here for some background info . . . viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31862
We had some frames and parts kicked down to us by RRB forum members Kuttnhack and davethecreep to get us started . . . THANKS GUYS!
I decided that since I’m getting taller, I better make this bike a bigger one . . . and thus, my new, stretched OCC chopper was born. The first step was to take measurements from my dad’s Schwinn Spoiler and from a stock OCC bike and then compare them. I then decided that while the difference was about nine inches, I would stretch it two thirds of the way towards the Spoiler . . . six inches.
Here it is after its been stretched . . .
That's where the cut was made and tack welded . . .
Here's a close-up. Those spots on either side of the seam are plug welds where we inserted tubing to reinforce the joint.
Note in the first photo how the top tubes don't line up, but that won't be a problem much longer . . . we plan to fix that! We tacked that short piece of square tubing in betwen the top tubes so that I could take it for a test ride to see if I liked how much I stretched it. But before this could take place, I learned how to use a chain breaker tool to extend the chain to fit the bike's new length.
Thanks for the compliments! The chain is now in place and I took a test ride. Good thing my dad put duct tape on the top bar so I wouldn't scratch my leg during the test ride.I love having a bike that actually fits me. After measuring the bike, we realized that we actually only stretched it about 5 3/4" as opposed to 6. But, we are going to have the opportunity to move the seat back an inch or so . . . and the longer frame will permit the seat to be slammed down to the frame which will add to the looks . . . but first, to take care of that scary lookin' top bar!
Our neighbor Mr. Lee was getting rid of an old exercise machine and my dad saw this bar on the machine and he thought it might be useful for something so, we’ll see if it’ll work for us . . .
My dad let me take the picture and he said it would be cool if I showed you my Converse.
I started to cut out the top bar with a cutoff wheel . . .
Alas, the cutoff wheel would not reach the inside of the tube so I had to use a mini hacksaw . . .
Here's what it looks like after some work with a 60 grit flapper wheel . . .
Now it looks like a girls bike!
Always cool to see the youngsters getting into building projects. Thats how I got into, by building streetrods with my dad. Keep up the great work kid!!
Thanks for the positive comments!
After we cut the top bar out, we decided that the splice should be farther back, towards the seat post. That way the curve of the new top tube would transition more smoothly into the back of the frame. And, as a added benefit, the weld would be hidden under the seat. So, I trimmed the tube shorter . . . however, the new top tube is round, whereas the original Schwinn top tube was oval-shaped. So, we used the cutoff wheel to make four slits.
The slits allowed us to hammer on the oval to fit the shape of the new tube.
Here's the joint at the head tube, ready to be welded.
My dad says its WAY past my bedtime, so that’s it for now.
Here’s how it looks with the new top bar welded in. That tube didn’t look this good when it was part of Mr. Lee’s home gym!
This week, my nice dad got me a new hub and a few other things. This is my new coaster brake hub. It is a coaster so that when I paint my rims I wont have the paint ruined by the brake pads. And, as an added bonus, we won’t have a brake cable protruding from the handlebars. The chain tension adjusters will save the paint on the dropouts while keeping the chain tight. We will trim the screws later.
A big thanks to Alan at Choppers U.S. for the super fast service.
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