Twisted typhoon (name change)

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Joined
May 8, 2018
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Location
Lakeland fl.
The starting point is this 68 typhoon making it more of a stingray clone so the tyclone.
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Planning on paint banana seat rear slick and probably some sort of ape hangers. Debating on what forks I have stock ones or a Springer.
First up was breaking the frame down seat post and bottom bracket came out without to much of a fight. The headset and stem was a different story needed some heat and muscle. Ended up bending the stem but managed to get everything apart.
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Also managed to install a a/c in my shed even though it's getting to when I won't really be needing it lol.
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Threw a few parts on to see if I liked it and not too bad but still not sold on it. Would have to get one of the grandkids to do the test ride.
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Before I go much further I need to figure out how I can treat the rust inside of the frame. I have tried the OA bath before didn't work out. Would like to just find some kind of spray with a lond tube to spray inside of the frame to neutralize the rust any ideas?
 
Take a look at POR-15 rust preventive products. Think there's a spray. Pain to get off skin and clothing tho.
 
Not a lot of progress but I did manage to get the frame down to bare metal over the last couple of days.
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then today I was able to get it primed
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Noticed that the fork was bent
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but with the help of my son-in-law and a one inch pipe bender slide over the steerer tube we was able to get it straightened out but I guess I forgot to get a pic.
 
Decided to use the low rider Springer with the twisted pieces so the reason for the name change. Scuffed up all the parts with some 35 grit and primed with some self etching primer and hanging everywhere in my shop.
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Need to order some new spokes for the front rim and a couple other things. Hope for some clear weather this weekend so I can get some painting done.
 
Hi Brian, what is the exact method you use to prep the parts with primer before paint? And what brand/model primer would you recommend? Having similar weather issues.
 
Hi Brian, what is the exact method you use to prep the parts with primer before paint? And what brand/model primer would you recommend? Having similar weather issues.
I just used my sander with some 36 grit sandpaper and a short piece of pipe that matched the twisted pieces by had and scuffed it up as best I could. Then hit it up with the self etching primer and hope it sticks.
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I just used my sander with some 36 grit sandpaper and a short piece of pipe that matched the twisted pieces by had and scuffed it up as best I could. Then hit it up with the self etching primer and hope it sticks.View attachment 142384View attachment 142385
Thank you,
And then you just paint directly over the primer? Do you wipe the primer surface or do anything else special before adding the basecoat?
 
Thanks fellas, it's been a long time since I painted a bike and never used self etching out of can before. I used the same process and paint as you guys on a recent build. Seemed like an awful lot of primer came off during light scuffing, and acetone being so powerful removed even more primer. Again, with the a meager amount on a towel and light rubbing. Saw Brian has painted quite a few bikes...why I asked a Dr.
 
Over the weekend I was able to get the frame painted satin ink blue and some parts antique white. Just using paint I had leftover from previous bikes.
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Ordered the seat should be here this weekend or Monday. Also picked up this set of rims and tires will be using the rims not sure on tires which are mongoose 20×2.35.
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Since I was planning on using a freewheel rim set I needed to figure out a way to stop. I came up with a bolt on bracket to bolt onto the frame to hold the brake. Sorry about the bad pics.
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Over the weekend I was able to get the frame painted satin ink blue and some parts antique white. Just using paint I had leftover from previous bikes.View attachment 143155 Ordered the seat should be here this weekend or Monday. Also picked up this set of rims and tires will be using the rims not sure on tires which are mongoose 20×2.35.View attachment 143156View attachment 143157
Since I was planning on using a freewheel rim set I needed to figure out a way to stop. I came up with a bolt on bracket to bolt onto the frame to hold the brake. Sorry about the bad pic View attachment 143158
I like that blue :113:
 
Got a seat in last Thursday and turnedout to be the wrong color black sent them a email and receivedone back saying a return shipping label sent. Monday received the right one blue before I even got to mail the wrong one back. It's a little lighter than the blue I sprayed the frame but will work.
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trying to get the painting finished up today so I can start putting it together.
 
Finished up most of the paint and started some assembly. First I was going to use the wheels and tires I originally bought but when they was on it didn't really like it.
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Sunday on the way home from the swap shop seen a yard sale sign stopped and picked up 2 20" bikes for $20 one mainly for the tires. Also used the coaster brake rims to be easier for my grandson to stop. Had to repaint the rims (was pink) I think they turned out nice liking this look a lot better.
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I completely forgot to make sure that my grandson was going to be able to reach the pedals from where the twisted sissy bar was at lowest mounting point. Answer is no so now I needed to figure out how to get lower and I came up with these drop extension.
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Now I need to finish the chain guard and tank insert install chain what ever else I may have forgot about lol.
 
I have tried the OA bath before didn't work out.
.
Parts need to be clean, grease free for OA to work. What issue did you have with OA?
Vinegar is a good alternative. Cost more to fill a tub to submerge a frame.
Citric Acid is similar to OA, need to figure why Oxalic didnt work or may have same issue.
POR15. Ive sworn off the stuff, I also resto cars and have had it fail about 50% of the time, using their prep instructions and chemicals. No more for me.
 
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Parts need to be clean, grease free for OA to work. What issue did you have with OA?
Vinegar is a good alternative. Cost more to fill a tub to submerge a frame.
Citric Acid is similar to OA, need to figure why Oxalic didnt work or may have same issue.
POR15. Ive sworn off the stuff, I also resto cars and have had it fail about 50% of the time, using their prep instructions and chemicals. No more for me.
Just didn't take the rust off probably didn't have the water hot enough or not enough oa.
 
Think I'm pretty much finished with this build. Took it out for a test ride and it rides different than my other bikes. Kinda feels like driving something that steers in the middle. Finished up the paint on the chain guard and tank insert . Will get a ride vid of me and my grandson riding it since it's him I'm building this bike for.
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oh the training wheels rotate back when I ride lol.
 

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