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Meanwhile, back at the OP ranch...

If you are replacing a mountain or road fork that had a 26.4 crown race diameter and your replacement fork has a JIS 27.0 diameter use a sharpie when filing it down. Repeatedly filing off one layer of Sharpie at a time will help you remove a fairly consistent amount of material all the way around.

(I learned this from a post on the MTBR vintage forum quite a few years ago).

;)
 
Loose ball headsets...Rebel_56's bearing post reminded me of this-

When packing a headset with 40+ little bearings it's easy to get them gobbed up if you install the fork as you might when using retainers- putting the fork up into the lower race and then threading down the top cone. I noticed a 10 minute Youtube video that edits out the crucial moment when the upper grease and bearings start to make contact! Things often go south at this moment as the many tiny balls shift out of position.

Instead, start with the top cone on the upper cup and bearings. From this moment on keep pressure on this cone!!! Slide the fork up through the head tube and start threading it onto the top cone by spinning the top cone on it's bearings(remember, you're still keeping the top cone, cup, and bearings in full contact so nothing can shift out of place!). Hold the fork steady as the lower cone takes a spin-free 'elevator ride' up into the lower cup and bearings. Once everything is fully seated in place you can proceed with your headset adjustment.

Do it this way and you'll only need one unedited take for your video. :thumbsup:
 
If you are planning on painting the bike, make sure you knock out all of your fabrication and fitting of parts on the bike before paint if possible. Don't assume that those fenders or chainguard are going to fit on your bike. Many times in past build offs I have seen builders that painted early and THEN put their bikes together only to find they had to mess up the paint in order for something to fit right.
 
Here's my faux Coppertone mix
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This has probably been said here already, but it still holds true.
Whether it's full custom frame or a simple chain guard mod, it should go without saying.

Measure twice, cut once.
 
Question about coaster brakes? Ask @Bicycle808!

(He is going to hate me now! But he helped out heaps with my decision making process for the upcoming OffRoad Build-Off.)

Luke.
 
Happy to help, Luke. For what it's worth, I enjoy PMs about coaster brakes slightly more than PMs about 3 piece conversions and/or chainline-- but any discussion about bike components is a lot of fun for me. I definitely love talking tech... anyone in a bind, feel free to drop me a line. =D
 
Removing even the most stubborn handlebar grips is easy with compressed air.

Pry the grip open just enough to slip the tip of an air nozzle under the edge and then twist and pull as you blast it with air. Use the same method to install grips and there's no need for any lubricant to slip them into place. This has never failed to work effortlessly.
 
Sounds pretty basic but...always use a center punch before you drill a new hole

Very true! And a center punch is different from a nail punch (although a nail could be used as a makeshift center punch :)).
 
There was a mentioning of using Teflon based grease. I ask what bicycle company makes it and why would u wanna use a Teflon based versus a non telfon based.
 
With the build off's everyone is required to document them with photos. I do the same with all of my builds Not only does it help with re assembly but also helps friends appreaciate what my builds used to look like. I've never rebuilt a hub so the photos will help with the exception rebuild process. Just a thought.

Bart
 
I like to drop a quarter into my grips before I slide them on. This helps protect from the bars from punching through. I also use windex to install and remove grips. It's cheap, gets the job done and dries really fast.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
...and you'll always have change for a pay phone if you need it. :bigsmile:
 

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