Search results

You guys are waayyy too orderly.........

When I was about 14 (1967ish) got a beat Bronco from a neighbor and put n REO reel type lawnmover engine in it. That frame was just made for doing that. I must have cut the crank arms off 'cause I mounted up a big pulley on the off side from the chain and tried to get a pulley ration to pull...

Right you are! An adjustable, but lock down boggy wheel could take up slack and with a big wheel type wingnut allow for swap on the chainrings if I hit a step patch? The Grand Prix is a heavy, but pretty lugged frame and it has more stretch in the top tube than my other Nottingham frames so...

Im really thinking of building up an early 70's Raleigh Grand Prix (I just saved it from the pit) like these; and in BRG, of course. Maybe just keep the front two chainring crank/shifter for a two speed and the 26" wheelset of alum rims and coaster brake hub.......

Vintage Ideale 'Registered' (has a number on the back plate; maybe a special for owner thing?) Leather is checked only on surface, the rest is thick and strong, thicker than Brooks.

Oil based paint comes off really well with lard (dont we all keep some around to make baking powder biscuits?). Might try Crisco?

Killer!

I really like my real Dyno Deuce, which has the same front end in chrome, but it is a bit of a rough ride. The lines of the frame beg for a curvy springer, donchathink? The heavy leg front could maybe be the basis for a Monark (HD) style springer, but would look better on more of a straightbar...

Same wedge in an appropriate probe , stick in the long nozzle of WD-40 and spray a bit; remove both, give a twist and they usually pop and slide off. If not just probe and spray 180deg. from the first.

How about Porteur Bars?, tale a look on VeloOrange, thats where I got mine.

Be aware that Neatsfoot Oil comes in NF Oil and Nf 'Compound'. Dont use the 'Compound' on your top leather products. Lay the leather in the sun (NEVER in an oven!) to warm and rub the NF Oil in by hand. If it is really dry you may have dry rot, but try it anyway. Do this once a day for a week...

Like a Varsity? Mine has the freewheel built into the crankset which makes it a no go for a coaster brake rear

My Jester came with the factory springer and its a 1", and it rides very nice; I like the way it takes the jar out of tar strips & divots I dont see.

Get what you want now instead of thinkin' it will 'always be around'; this has been true in the past (think about what is no longer available) and will be true in the future. Thats the thing about truth.......

It is true that the more 'forward' ya lean the less weight on the seat-bones, so the narrower saddle should work, butt (pun intended) for me, with an old whiplash type neck injury, bad lumbar and rotator cuff issues I cant get down too far or kick my head back. This pretty much means I have to...

Doerman, IMHO that Wald bar, and similar, is quite nice for control, I need a wider saddle though.

For me, the set-back seat still needs enough height/reach to get leg extension (to relieve the knee load). The same thing happens with recumbents, right? But with the recum. you have a seat back to help lock you in for leg thrust. Having my butt back so the leg reach is right, then bending hard...

The bars are VO Porteur (IIRC), in the up position, which works way better for me. Im OK on the motorcycle cafe'd out but not low on a bike, its the high seat position to bar height that gets me. The saddle is an old Fizik (sp?), I like the one you pic'ed.

Im curious as to how you are going to whittle that out.......