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Remove the wheel and fork from your bike. Push the lock arm in from the bottom, lining it up in the fork slot. Insert the lock cylinder being careful to line it up so that the grove on the cylinder lines up with the predrilled hole on the fork (just below the bottom race) and that the round tab...

I need to check that. Thanks for pointing it out.

The wheel is true, I did realign the wheel and I now get about 3/8" clearance from the chain. I plan on testing it out for a longer ride to see if it stays aligned. I do need to check the idler to see if it is aligned as well. Thanks for your input. I am new at this and appreciate any...

Ok, thanks for the help. I guess that I have to figure things out for myself. Loosening up the wheel and adjusting it a bit seems to help, but I don't know how long it will last. I have to check it every time I ride.

I would be all for it if they had vodka caps.

I use WD 40 and some crumpled up tin foil. It works great and no special high price product is needed. Works on all metals, even rusted iron handle bars and truss rods.

I just purchased a cruiser bike with an added engine kit and find that the chain is rubbing the tire. Can anyone offer me possible solutions? Can I add another rubber bushing to move the sprocket over without messing up the alignment of of the engine with the chain ring? Thanks. Patrick

Early Westfield bikes had serial no. on the bottom bracket. Later ones on the drive side rear dropout. You will have to strip the paint off on the dropout to see the no. The chain ring is Columbia, but the frame may be something else.

I don't know what it means

After selling my old Hawthorne, I thought that I was on the way to healing my obsession, but less than a week later I found a cool motorized bike that was a deal I could not shy away from. Pictured is my 38 CWC badged as a Speed bike. After adding a Cadet speedometer from a Roadmaster Luxury...

Blatant commercialism. Yuk!