1965 Murray Skymaster

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Joined
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Location
Speedway, Indiana
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Just got here today from Falstaff! Took the afternoon off and cleaned the paint, chrome, and lubed it. I'm leaving it as is except for a few accessories. It seriously has some of the best patina I have ever seen!

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Looks good, that tank bezel is a pain to line up on the head tube. And I didn't know you could see the whole skymaster script on the guard, when I boxed it up yesterday all I could read was ter
 
Working on the lighting tonight - converting to LED and added a nice Delta rear light :)

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Good idea keeping it with the original paint. The graphics show up nicely. I think most of those bikes were red, girls versions came in blue usually. That's from what I remember as a neighborhood bike rider back in the 60's.
Gold isn't that common and goes well with the patina.
 
Good idea keeping it with the original paint. The graphics show up nicely. I think most of those bikes were red, girls versions came in blue usually. That's from what I remember as a neighborhood bike rider back in the 60's.
Gold isn't that common and goes well with the patina.
I LOVE the gold - going to get some new red grips and possible powder coat the rims red as well. Then maybe recover the seat in a silver flake vinyl. Traditional hot rod style :)


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If all that stuff is original to the bike, I'd keep them separate from the hot rod modifications so you could ride the tires off it and still put it back if you wanted to. A new set of pedals would be first on the agenda. Those look good, but a new pair would ride great.
A set of wheels like the 3G sets sold here wouldn't be too much more than having your set powder coated and you would have the color you wanted on a new set of wheels. Since the bike is a middleweight, the 57mm rims would be too wide, (your tires are 1.75?). Of course, that red band Bendix hub on there now is the best one speed though. Your tires will go right on these rims:

http://ratrodbikes.storenvy.com/col...1452063-3g-venice-26-x-26mm-coaster-wheel-set


But it's your bike.
You can do all kinds of things to that that will look great!
 
Working on the lighting tonight - converting to LED and added a nice Delta rear light :)

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That's what I forgot, I have some E10 style L.E.D.s I meant to add in for the tank.
If you haven't started wiring yet I can send a couple.
 
That would be AWESOME! Thx[emoji1360]


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If all that stuff is original to the bike, I'd keep them separate from the hot rod modifications so you could ride the tires off it and still put it back if you wanted to. A new set of pedals would be first on the agenda. Those look good, but a new pair would ride great.
A set of wheels like the 3G sets sold here wouldn't be too much more than having your set powder coated and you would have the color you wanted on a new set of wheels. Since the bike is a middleweight, the 57mm rims would be too wide, (your tires are 1.75?). Of course, that red band Bendix hub on there now is the best one speed though. Your tires will go right on these rims:

http://ratrodbikes.storenvy.com/col...1452063-3g-venice-26-x-26mm-coaster-wheel-set


But it's your bike.
You can do all kinds of things to that that will look great!
I for sure won't modify any of the original parts. I always keep the "as built" pieces labeled for "re-installation"


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Just a side note as I didnt see it mentioned, your front fork looks a little bent back from a front end collision? Maybe its the angle of the picture but I love where youre going with the plans for it and Its a really really great bike! Some of the 60s Murray are just undeniable for RADness.
 
Just a side note as I didnt see it mentioned, your front fork looks a little bent back from a front end collision? Maybe its the angle of the picture but I love where youre going with the plans for it and Its a really really great bike! Some of the 60s Murray are just undeniable for RADness.
I hadn't noticed that either, ill check the sale thread to see if it's bent in any of my pics.
 
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These are from the sale post.

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It feels to me it should have more of a forward rake on it, but Im not familiar with that particular model. Maybe someone else will chime in?
 
I'll check my liner, I know it's a different model but I think you're right.
Not a big deal, just might want to check it out if thats the case, take the fork out and inspect any cracking at the steer tube. I had a Monark 24" fork snap on me when I had it straightened due to not inspecting a crack that was likely already at the base of the steer tube. Took a friend of mine a little work to peg weld a new steer tube to it where the original was Brazed into place.

Even if you have to bring it to an LBS, it shouldnt be too much if they have the right ParkTool to do it. I think I was charged.. 20? for the straightening [that unfortunately split it] and having a wheel trued a little bit, both.
 
Just a side note as I didnt see it mentioned, your front fork looks a little bent back from a front end collision? Maybe its the angle of the picture but I love where youre going with the plans for it and Its a really really great bike! Some of the 60s Murray are just undeniable for RADness.
It's about 1/2" out but both legs are exactly the same amount out so I'm leaving it alone! I don't want to risk cracking anything for only 1/2". She rides great tho :)


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I wasn't going to say anything about the bend, because every additional bend makes the forks weaker and as noted above, is subject to cracking. A 50's heavier fork could probably take more punishment, but a 60's middleweight fork, I would leave as is, especially when it looks good like yours. Usually the bend is at the stress point, right at the crown where you can't see it until it gives out when a crack forms. Just a slight bend will just make it ride slightly different but no big deal, and hopefully there's no crack. It looks like some of the bend is along the fork tubes also, so the crown didn't take the whole bend. Look for a crack right where the bottom race is on the fork if you pull them off.

One way to tell if forks are bent is to draw an imaginary line along the head tube downward. The upper part of the forks, before the lower bend, should line up perfectly and be straight all the way down to the bend forward at the lower part.
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