2000 Cannondale H300

Apr 1, 2014
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Got this out of the back room of a local bike shop over a year ago. Bike was missing seat and seat post and must of sit outside by the rusted chain. got the chain freed up, added used tires, seat and seat post. I was able to ride the bike a few times (the chain snapped and I replaced it and it got parked till now. First step is new CST road tires in a slightly smaller size (700c40 vs 700c45). Wheels cleaned, bearings lubed and adjusted.
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Apr 1, 2014
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Bars are Wald were cheap on fleabay.
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This post was also from the bay. Extra long 450 mm because frame is a little short for me and I want plenty of post in the frame for strength.
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Seat and bars subject to change... Kinda adult BMX vibe now.
 
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Apr 1, 2014
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Super nice. That's the thing I love the most, when customers bring bicycles like that to my shop, and they come out like that one.
Thanks. This was quite a bit different than other bikes I've owned and wrenched on and probably the most expensive new. Awesome frame, high quality and made in USA. Looking forward to putting some miles on this. :)
 
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Reactions: RustyGold and Grant
Apr 28, 2019
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I've read a few reviews, I've heard they're fast!
Well actually...

There is a standard 8spd cassete in the back, and if I'm getting it correct a 42T is the largest in the front...

That gives a 2200mm circumference and a 42T to 11T (3.81:1), and that gives 8,38m of distance traveled with each revolution of the cranks.

With 48T cranks it would be much faster (like my boss has in his Hercules - 9,59m) but still can't compete with the thing that I'm putting in my Gravel for this season (700x32C Ultra Sport tires, and a 7spd cassete - that gives, a 10,17m, right now I only have a lousy 8,25m) :crazy:

Sorry for the mathematics - I sometimes have thing with it... :crazy:
 
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Jul 16, 2019
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For me, fast also has to do with geometry, tire size and rolling resistance. You can have whatever gear ratio you'd like, but with terrible tires, or uncomfortable body position, you can't even spin up to the top speed your gear might allow otherwise.

*I could never figure out gear inches, I just know ratios, rear revolution to front crank spins. When I build a rockin single speed, I suppose I'll have to figure it out...
 
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Last edited:
Apr 1, 2014
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I've been studying gear clusters and I guess the claim to fame for 8 speeds is the small 11t top gear.
Most all the old 6 and 7 speed stuff I have has a 13t top gear so the 11t is a .85 overdrive everything else being equal. I am a Clyde and I would rather have tall gears to push against on the flat - so should be optimum!
For me, fast also has to do with geometry, tire size and rolling resistance. You can have whatever gear ratio you'd like, but with terrible tires, or uncomfortable body position, you can't even spin up to the top speed your gear might allow otherwise.
I agree, now on to test rides and adjustments - weather permitting.
 
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I've been studying gear clusters and I guess the claim to fame for 8 speeds is the small 11t top gear.
Most all the old 6 and 7 speed stuff I have has a 13t top gear so the 11t is a .85 overdrive everything else being equal. I am a Clyde and I would rather have tall gears to push against on the flat - so should be optimum!
That's the reason why I wan't to switch from a freewheel (14-28T) to a casette (11T-28T). Also I'm doing this since I got a wheel from a race bike for only 24 spokes that uses a casette instead of a freewheel.