28x1,1/2" Boardtracker-Lowrider

Greetings everyone,

Here is my bike, i wanted to make something different, so i started this project started 4 years ago, the result is a 3 metre bike that goes ~45 mph downhill, with insufficient braking, but surely an eye-cather.

Front disc has 44 teeth rear 20 teeth, the pedals are from a childs bike, I made the frame from galvanized steel so it is rust-proof but hard to weld. The front fork is from a racebike but straitened I have plans to add a Sachs 125cc 2 stroke engine later on.

Maybe also, i will add a sidecar "zeppelin style"
  • Custom welded galvanized frame
  • 28x1,1/2" chromed steel rims
  • Rear coaster brake
  • Rear fender bobbed from a Bismark bicycle
  • Reverse levers for throttle and clucth
  • No tubes
  • One-off stainless steel wheel covers
  • Custom made one-off handlebars
  • Lepper Holand Racebike dark brown leather saddle
  • Phillips England seatpost
  • Lucas England Headlamp
  • Ralleigh England rear stoplight
  • Stainless steel nuts and bolts
  • Double stand from Bismarck bicycle
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Too bad i didn't have a camera when i was building it so no photos from build, sorry!:(
Please feel free to suggest any modifications or opinion.
 
Wouldn't all the welds rust because you burned off the galvanized coating?
rubsterob
http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?members/rubsterob.19294/

With the galvanizing removed, the carbon steel will weld just like uncoated steel, and all standard forms of welding can then be used.

When you remove the coating by grinding, heating or welding galvanized steel. you must be very carefull with the fumes and dust particles, they are very toxic.

After the welding is complete and cooled, I put cold galvanizing over the weld to maintain the galvanized steel's rust resistance.

It can be applied, by either spray coat or brush in liquid form, it hardens in a matter of minutes.
 
Could you explain what you mean by "no tubes"?
Luke thank you.

I had a problem, because no tubes could sustain the weight of the bike ≅15 kg about 33 pounds.

The solution was easy, i squeezed between the tire and the rim 2 reinforced black hard water tubes together.

One tube with smaller diameter, inside one tube with a larger diameter.

The result is painstaking, kidney jolting ride, but with amazing amounts of grip, both from the front and the rear tire.
 
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Could you explain what you mean by "reverse levers for throttle and clutch"?
Luke

The levers on the handlebars were from a vintage Ralleigh gents bike, that are normaly used for operating the front and rear brake.



I did a small hole on the levers that allows me to pass the wire cable from inside the handlebars, so no cables will be visible. So when i am going to install a motor the left lever will operate the throttle and the right lever will operate the clutch as i prefer.

Something similar to this.
 
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Thanks for the answers! :113: That tube idea sounds like a lot of work! I love them bar end levers, going to have to get some at some point for one of my rides...
Thanks Luke best regards!

By the way your work is just awesome, great frame must have been very hard to make it.
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May 21, 2012
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Γεια σου ρε πατριώτη! Φανταστικό το εργαλίο! Έφτιαξες και το πίσω μερος του σκελετού (εκει που πιάνει η πισω ρόδα) ή το πηρες απο άλλο ποδήλατο; Και τι χρησιμοποιείς για τις καμπύλες; Κουρμπαδόρο ή έχεις αλλα κόλπα; Και πάλι τρελό ποδηλατο έκανες. Σκέφτομαι να φτιάξω κι εγω και κοιιτάω να δω πρώτα τι να αποφύγω. Επιτέλους ενας Ελληνας να μπορω να συννενοηθώ πιο ευκολα!

Φανταστική δουλεια!