BO15 4-4-2

[Wildcat]

Still no frame, but I have just about everything else. My latest ideas are a dropstand and a rear rack that are integrated somehow to look like exhaust pipes. So with 4 speeds, 4 pipes and two wheels, that's 4-4-2. That's the name even though there's no frame.
I remember an Olds 442 in the neighborhood when I was kid. All of us would stop and watch as it came rumbling by. The 4-4-2 meant 4 speed on the floor, 4 barrel carburator and 2 exhaust pipes. I will have a month at my new place to get it done, if my flight doesn't get cancelled again. I'll have all my add ons mocked up in cardboard so I can just have the fabrication shop use them instead of trying to explain what I need. The forks aren't that much of a challenge, but I'll need dropout extensions for a non existent frame.

 

[sandman]

My pic would be the 1967 W-30 .

 

[Wildcat]

My pic would be the 1967 W-30 .
View attachment 125312

Still waiting on my 2 speed. I laughed as I watched this old road test. It went around the track like a whale and they called it feather light! "Like a ballerina!" Then they lost control many times and locked up the brakes to check the braking distance! Go Oldsmobile!

 

[sandman]

And it had a whopping 340 HP , the same as a Ford Taurus SHO .
I shouldn't laugh I went to sleep listening to the Oldsmobile drop forgers
stamping out fenders and bumpers .

 

[kingfish254]

 

[Rat Pilot]

And it had a whopping 340 HP , the same as a Ford Taurus SHO .
I shouldn't laugh I went to sleep listening to the Oldsmobile drop forgers
stamping out fenders and bumpers .

1971 was the neutered version though. The government mandated drop in compression ratio and the change to unleaded killed the real muscle cars. Anything after ‘70 was a shell of its former self.
The ‘70 W30 was rated at 370HP and 500 TQ, but dyno testing has proven those engines were actually over 400 HP.

 

[Wildcat]

I made up a template for the fork extensions. This is more of an adapter plate. Looking at it, I now think it should have holes spaced at different intervals. That would give more configurations for the forks and wheel. As it is, it allows for different positions for the wheel, forward, rearward, up or down. I didn't use a slot for the axle to make use of the holes either way, axle or fork. That should allow for a lot of adjustments and different configurations. Maybe it could have more of the 1/2 holes. I made it the size of my coffee coaster, 5 inches. That might be a little too large. I'll make those changes when I get it mocked up on the bike, before they are made up. I'm hoping to use 1/4 inch stainless for these extensions.
The SA 2 speed showed up today!

 

[metalchewy]

I pulled this from the 2016 mbbo Sassy build. Extension Brackets I made for a widened Springer with 15mm axles and a disc. I started them with firm cardboard.

After a 20mph crash, I put the thru axle on the disc side. Not sure if you are adding a brake up front, just hoping if you do to save you from the hard physics lesson I learned.

 

[Wildcat]

I pulled this from the 2016 mbbo Sassy build. Extension Brackets I made for a widened Springer with 15mm axles and a disc. I started them with firm cardboard.

After a 20mph crash, I put the thru axle on the disc side. Not sure if you are adding a brake up front, just hoping if you do to save you from the hard physics lesson I learned.
View attachment 125751

I'll be using a Bendix coaster brake hub. Similar to this setup:

I'll have my round extension bolt to the axle first, then to the forks. The wheel can't fall out unless the bolts come out. No slots, just holes.
I looked through Sassys thread, it's just what I was looking for when I considered widening my springer for the 3" tires. I couldn't find any pics of modifying those springers.

 

[metalchewy]

I'll be using a Bendix coaster brake hub. Similar tio this setup:
View attachment 125755
I'll have my round extension bolt to the axle first, then to the forks. The wheel can't fall out unless the bolts come out. No slots, just holes.
I looked thorugh Sassys thread, it's just what I was looking for when I considered widening my springer for the 3" tires. I couldn't find any pics of modifying those springers.
View attachment 125761

Glad it helped. I was running 80mm wide wheels with 3.5" tires. Was fun. After a couple hundred miles I ended up with a wide triple tree on that frame for a year or two, until the dropouts went south, and I put it away until I want to cut it up for parts.

 

[Jake Sensi]

442. YA BIKE IS GONNA ROCK.

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[sandman]

Do you have a elusive Superbird ?

 

[kingfish254]

Nice ideas on the extensions Barry.

 

[Wildcat]

They are as simple as I can get them. The same goes for widening the forks. As little as needed so I don't run into too many problems. 3/4s of an inch clearance on either side of the tire should work fine and keep enough integrity for the front coaster brake. That's 4 1/2 inches wide.

Now I'm thinking of using a foot pedal for the front brake instead of a handle or handlebar lever. Something Like an oversized fender brace hooked up to the chain, hinged and wrapped around the rear of the tire that could be stepped on by either foot. It might be a little dangerous.

I worked on the drivetrain also. I'm settling for 36 and 42 tooth chainrings. I needed concave so I went with the lucky 7 style. Ratios will be 46, 54, 64, and 75. The cloverleaf style was a flat sprocket and half the price. The two lucky 7's will face away from each other to give room for the chain. I have two of the KMC 710 (now K1) chains to use. The roller needs to be on the upper part of the chain. I just realized all the pull of the coaster is on the bottom half of the chain. Maybe I should have known that years ago. That's why my derailler didn't work before, all the stress was on the bottom. So I'll see how much slack the chain has between the two chainwheels once it's mocked up and go from there.

 

[Dr. Tankenstein]

If you go down the foot pedal path, Wald basket struts look like oversized fender braces. I’m using them on two of my ‘off forum’ builds.
Good luck bud!


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[Wildcat]

That would work. I'm thinking of one piece of tubing bent to loop around the tire and have a pivot point on both sides, then have a return spring to augment the return spring on the chain. Then some kind of pedal so it's easy to step on from either side.

 

[Wildcat]

I wondered how much difference there was between the two chainwheels. I found a webpage that actually lists different chainwheels and all their diameters, down to the thousandths of an inch.
https://www.rollerchain4less.com/sprocket-diametersSo I checked and there is .957" of difference between 36 and 42 tooth chainwheels. That equates to a .4785" radius, or about a half inch bigger on the crank for the 42 over the 36, not much difference. The shift from one to the other should be fairly smooth since it's not much of a jump. I don't know if the one speed chain will act any differently than a road bike chain.
So, with even more time to squander, I wondered how much slack would be in the chain once the chain dropped to the smaller chain wheel. Using the math I learned from my recent college education, I calculated the circumference of each chain wheel and the difference was exactly 3". With 3 inches of chain difference, I think a spring loaded roller might be the way to go as long as it's mounted above the chain stay. Then the only shifter will be the derailler. The stationary roller may also be fine by itself also depending on how much slack there is.

 

[Chad T]

Lots of cool ideas here WILDCAT. That 442 vid is hilarious. Looks like the guy is just standing on the brake pedal with both feet. Some sweet drifts out on the track though and he does a stellar Rockford turn.

I don't know if the one speed chain will act any differently than a road bike chain.

A little bit. Road bike chain will have plates that are chamfered to make changing cogs smoother. The one speed chain rings will be quite a bit different. Multi speed rings will have shorter teeth that are also chamfered on the ends to to allow the chain to slide on. Modern ones actually have ramps and pins to facilitate gear changes. Should be fine the way you're planing on changing gears.

With 3 inches of chain difference, I think a spring loaded roller might be the way to go as long as it's mounted above the chain stay.

You will probably need at least another 2 inches of chain to climb over the teeth when you shift back up to the big ring.

You'll need a strong tensioner to withstand the coaster brake. That motorized bike on looks to be made to take up slack on the loose side of the chain. Something like this might be better.

 

[Wildcat]

I like how that video started out saying safety and ecology were spoiling our fun, then show a big V8 car spinning tires. They would be burned at the stake if they did that today. I also liked how they bragged about the brakes when they locked them up and the car slid sideways. The driver was correcting like it made a difference with locked tires. And they spun the tires at will when doing the performance tests. The whole video was like: "Hold my beer!" Here's the 64 ad:

The roller I have can be mounted upward or downward and doesn't move so it should work okay.

Much of my planning depends on what happens during the mockup. If everything works smoothly I should have the bike done by the last day of the build off.
The frame I'll get probably has no mount for a caliper brake so I'm relying on coaster brakes. But the SA 2 speed hub without the coaster is cheaper. I looked hard and long to get the lowest price on the coaster version.
I may go to manual shift change as I originally had planned on, if a derailler doesn't pan out. I think I'll stay in low range most of the time anyway with the weight of the bike and the riding conditions in the Philippines, hot all the time.

 

[Jake Sensi]

Do you have a elusive Superbird ?
View attachment 125794

HERE YA GO

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