RRBBO13 Black Cat 13 - Rides

[SkyknightJohn]

Small step:
Welded a washer onto the front detailleur tube...

...filled the hole, did some grinder work, and ¡Viola! more finished-looking than before.

On another front, I’m having difficulty incoporating the skirt guards with the wheel in place. (worked better without.) I’m thinking they might be for a 24” wheel or a smaller tire, though I’m just using a 26x1.75.

I guess it depends, do they really need to be attached to the fender? I have alternative placements brewing in mind, still working the problem.

Tomorrow will likely be seat mount modification using these shaft collars:

 

[OddJob]

The shaft collar, multipurpose rat rod modification device!

On my current build....replaces the top nut on the threaded steer tube:

On my One-Liner build from BO 11, spring retainers for my faux suspension fork:

Looking forward to your seat mount mod with the collars!
RaT oN~!

 

[SkyknightJohn]

The shaft collar, multipurpose rat rod modification device!
...
Looking forward to your seat mount mod with the collars!
RaT oN~!

Ingenius solutions to vexing problems!
-and-
Ask an ye shall receive!

This seat started out life on a LWB I built with 1” square tube found at the local, national-chain, big box store. 0.065” wall, so heavy in the end, especially ‘cause it was long, but a good ride overall. I couldn’t get over the tiller steering, though. Thus my switch to SWB. I may revisit the frame with USS in the future for a more direct, less tiller steer feel. But that’a another blog...

As I have none of the right size tube on hand, I dimantled this mount with a little (bow-ch-ch-bow-wow) grinding action.

Welded the tube to the shaft (giggity) collar.

Presto-Change-o the seat now mounts to my round roadmaster boom tube (giggity-giggity).

Two allens to loosen to change fwd-back adjustment.
Still have to figure rear stay attach points...
... and the pesky skirt guards. It’s just not ratty enough without them!

 

[OddJob]

Bow-chika-bow-wow is right! That turned out nice.

I also like your front der post. Will it be a triple for that extra gear range needed for the rolling hills of Indiana?

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Yep. 52t top ring for high speed and most cruising. Not sure of the other two rings’ count off the top o’ my head. My normal routes don’t usually call for the small ring, just some spots of 2-front, 2-rear and spin baby spin!

Having some trouble finding a front derailleur that fits 52t (most top out at 50) and 1-1/8” post w/clamp. I suppose I could figure out the braze-on fixture. “Lots-o-time” he says, looking at the calendar vs. his schedule and laughing sardonically.

 

[arty dave]

Oddjob what did you use at the bottom off the faux springer strut?

 

[OddJob]

Oddjob what did you use at the bottom off the faux springer strut?

Oh Artful one, I used a battery cable terminal end. Worked out great! Here are a couple of pics from that One-Liner build from BO 11. My apologies to SK John for this slight detour...

The fork crown brace for the struts was made from this:

This shot shows the springs, lock collars, steel rod, end caps, and acorn nuts and 'rustina paint' I used to construct the fork.

And the battery cable end, I believe this was 3/8" which was the O.D. dimension of the rod.

 

[arty dave]

Yes apologies SK John! I thought afterwards I should have PM'd oddjob. But thanks oddjob, I've spent too much time wandering around hardware stores and recycling center looking for just such an item.

OK back to SK John - Looking forward to more Black Cat, juicy welds and skirt guard/chain guard goodness!

 

[SkyknightJohn]

No worries folks, if my stuff spurs dicussion and the sharing of ideas... Great!

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Working with chainline. Started by welding on a bolt.

Tried with a toothed pulley

And a wider, smooth pulley

But the chains rub where they cross, so I’ll either get one of these Terra Cycle over-unders, or fab one from an old derailleur jockey wheel. Thinking cheap.

 

[SkyknightJohn]

For skirt action, I trimmed the inner part of the circle, where it would attach at the axle...

... and on this side, as well as removed the chaiguard, which wouldn’t work out.

So, attachment points to the fender that are not too tough to remove if the wheel needs to come off, and a frame attach point. Thinking & plotting...

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Well, I thought I would have a good update today...

I welded the adjustable seat stays—no problem.

I welded a couple of couplers to the original seat stays (like rack attatch points) to recieve the adjustable seat stays—no problem.

I tested the threads in the first coupler—no problem.

The second coupler—oh, it sticks a little, I’ll run a tap through it—“no problem” I thought. But the cap screw wouldn’t back out either.
—Then broke.
—“No problem” I thought, as I grabbed my broken thread removal tool.
—Then it broke too.

And I have no pics
‘cause I called it quits,
and I’m writing this post from the pub!

 

[Funkme]

Everything seems to be rolling on with perfection here... Some excellent craftsmanship...

 

[SkyknightJohn]

I approached work this morning with a fresh attitude. Removed the bad coupler and added a new one. I thought, “what the heck, let’s just tap this one before trying the real screw.”

Then added a washer over the rear BB shell. This is what welds are supposed to looke like when there is no gap: (no filler rod was hurt in the making of this seam!) I should aim for that kind of fitup everywhere.

The drive side received a bolt though the washer from the inside to mount another idler. The threaded part will likely get shortened, but the length is needed so the idler can move with shifting gears.

Lunch, then fit up after it all cools down.

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Mocked-up:

Here is the adjustable seat stays. Not a lot of movement, maybe 2”, but as I said earlier, this is kind of a one size build.

The chain would almost rub the seat pivot. Had I built the seat from scratch I would have made it narrower. I dont want to cut/weld it because the mesh is sewn on and could easily melt.

So I dug out this chain tube. The bracket has the advantage of helping to prevent the chain from jumping off the idler.

Skirt guards are still vexing me. Thought I had them, but then it didn’t work. I’ll probably focus on making it ridable (brakes, shifters, handlebar) so at least I end with a bike, then worry about dodads & paint later.

 

[kingfish254]

Nice progress, the doodads will work out in the end

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Been working again (job work, not bike work) Might do some small things this weekend, but then another trip. I have two nice blocks of time in July to knock out the rest and cross the finish line...
Anybody else feeling the pressure?

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Call it progress: I scrounged a derailleur. Seems a bit distant from the sprocket. Not sure if that’s due to the angle of the ‘seat tube’ post it’s mounted on or if it’s a mountain derailleur trying to service a road triple. It will shift between all three cleanly, though. Still investigating.

And Happy Independence Day to my fellow N.A. colonists!

 

[SkyknightJohn]

Broke her down today. Wire wheel-brushed the rear triangle (mostly) free of paint and removed the decals from the front. No more Roadmaster Adventures!

All sort of in prep for paint and also have some small bits to weld on, cable stops & stays, etc. And I have the skirt guards figured out. They will be making an appearance!

 

[OddJob]

Broke her down today. Wire wheel-brushed the rear triangle (mostly) free of paint and removed the decals from the front. No more Roadmaster Adventures!

All sort of in prep for paint and also have some small bits to weld on, cable stops & stays, etc. And I have the skirt guards figured out. They will be making an appearance!
View attachment 79279

This photo is funny John! It looks like the bike didn't quite get put together correctly. The fork is in the middle and the top tube never got joined together and the BB switched places with the fork!