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Installed some parts today. I'll have to pull the fork back out and cut it down a little. Waiting on spokes to build my wheels too.

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I'd say if you feel like it would be safe to leave the head tube that way, then leave it.
 
On the head tube chunk , you may find a piece of pipe that about the same diameter is the head tube and cut about a 1/2" to 3/4" ring . Then slip it around the head tub and weld it . If the diameter of the ring is a little to small you could cut it in half and still put it on there and welder it .
If you don't do that I would at least put some JB weld around the entire edge bearing cup before putting it back in the frame .
By the way killer frame and nice batch parts you got going on . should be a great-looking bike[emoji1303]


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On the head tube chunk , you may find a piece of pipe that about the same diameter is the head tube and cut about a 1/2" to 3/4" ring . Then slip it around the head tub and weld it . It the diameter of the ring is a little to small you could cut it in half and still put it on there and welder it .
:thumbsup:
 
On the head tube chunk , you may find a piece of pipe that about the same diameter is the head tube and cut about a 1/2" to 3/4" ring . Then slip it around the head tub and weld it . If the diameter of the ring is a little to small you could cut it in half and still put it on there and welder it .
If you don't do that I would at least put some JB weld around the entire edge bearing cup before putting it back in the frame .
By the way killer frame and nice batch parts you got going on . should be a great-looking bike[emoji1303]


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Thanks for the opinions guys. I'll think on it.
 
Could you just cut the head tube down a little and avoid having to weld it


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That would steepen the head tube angle and throw off the handling a bit. I attempted to remove only a few millimeters from an ovalized head tube on a dirt jumper years ago and it went from feeling slack and stable to steep and twitchy.
 
Bike is coming along,looks good.
The best part about building,is trying to get them all to fit.
One big giant jigsaw puzzle when your trying to blend old with new.
 
Could you just cut the head tube down a little and avoid having to weld it


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You would have to cut it above the damage which might be quite a bit looking at it. If you leave any of the damage without added strength to support it, it will just start to tear again.
Love that stem on there, suits nicely.
 
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Slowy coming along, didn't do anything with the headtube. Might eventually. Got my wheels back from my buddy who trued them up. These tires were a pain to get on the rim compared to what I typically deal with. Got the front tire on then realized I forgot my rim strip.:headbang: I've done that too many times to count.
 
Looks good! The compact drivetrain looks interesting on the classic frame, very minimal. What is your gearing again? 25/9?

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Looks like you got a klunker now !!!! They are the most fun to ride . Great looking bike looks
Like your ready for the hills
With the small sprocket.


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Looks like your ready for the hills
With the small sprocket.

That is actually quite deceiving. I had the hardest time convincing a shop owner to order bmx bikes with the compact gearing, he said the ring was so small the kids wouldnt be able to get anywhere and wasnt what the local kids wanted. While the front ring is smaller, so is the rear. Old BMX gearing used to be 44/16 or so, decent all around set up. Then street and park riders went down to about 36t up front and 12-14 out back for more ground clearance when riding aggressively and doing things that would damage the lager rings easier. Bikes got up to 35lbs or more! Then there was a movement to make the bmx bikes lighter, hard to do tricks and pedal around on a tank! One thing they did was eliminate the freewheel from the hub and started using small 9t drivers in combination with 25t chainrings up front, smaller ring is lighter, hub is lighter, and even the chain is as well due to not being nearly as long. The reason for going with that gearing was it is very similar in gear-inches to the older 36/14 and 44/16 setups, feels the same and you reach the same speeds when spinning out the cranks.

I am wondering how that gearing feels on the 26" wheel though. I have not run a single speed 26" with 25/9 yet.



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