BO15 Carcass

Feb 20, 2018
913
1,332
42
Germany, Leverkusen
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
The chain stays trimmed:
IMG_20200601_164501.jpg

I found out that my vise is way too weak to squish the tubing though. I am going to sand them while they are still nice rounded shape.
Also trying a different stem and bars position:
IMG_20200601_164907.jpg

Can't say I am impressed with this version. I also tried moon bars, nothing to see there.
 

kingfish254

CHECK OUT MY SALE THREAD FOR COOL STUFF!
Pro Member
Aug 31, 2009
27,706
25,232
Historic Savannah
www.ratrodbikes.com
Rating - 100%
129   0   0
Looking cool, but are you sure the chain is going to clear the original chainstays?
 
Feb 20, 2018
913
1,332
42
Germany, Leverkusen
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
No, I fear the chain stays would be an issue and would require a tensioner which will make me use a regular chain.
I will know as soon as I replace the BB.
I also hope that using as small chain ring and rear cog will keep the chain where the chain stays are the widest.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: OddJob

kingfish254

CHECK OUT MY SALE THREAD FOR COOL STUFF!
Pro Member
Aug 31, 2009
27,706
25,232
Historic Savannah
www.ratrodbikes.com
Rating - 100%
129   0   0
Cool mask, but it would be a shame to cover up the springer.
 
Feb 20, 2018
913
1,332
42
Germany, Leverkusen
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
The mask will remain on the wall :) it was just an idea.
I had ordered a headset and it never arrived. The seller finally admitted he had delivery problems and paid me back.
Only work I did since then is I trimmed the ends of the extension and pressed them in my vise, which required leverage, but it worked:
IMG_20200712_121319.jpg

But it will be finished :)
 

kingfish254

CHECK OUT MY SALE THREAD FOR COOL STUFF!
Pro Member
Aug 31, 2009
27,706
25,232
Historic Savannah
www.ratrodbikes.com
Rating - 100%
129   0   0
Feb 20, 2018
913
1,332
42
Germany, Leverkusen
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I am contemplating on using these curved bars, might go well with the curved frame. Also double tubes are kind of like a theme on this bike - double on the tank, double at the seat stays, double fork...
IMG_20200722_210134.jpg

Ideas, ideas, and all I do is get ahead of myself ... I have to put the frame set together first. I have to sand some spots still :oops:
I actually should not care about details until I get it rolling.
 
Feb 20, 2018
913
1,332
42
Germany, Leverkusen
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I removed the BB cups:
IMG_20200724_150905.jpg

Tested how the adapter fits - OK, tight enough, no tools required except for the Allen key for the bolts. I have to research which side is the drive side before I tighten the bolts.
IMG_20200724_152356.jpg

I also removed the headset cups:
IMG_20200724_150915.jpg

I might try the headset later, but I haven't prepared a home headset press yet so I don't have high hopes for successful installation today.
 
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I removed the BB cups:

Tested how the adapter fits - OK, tight enough, no tools required except for the Allen key for the bolts. I have to research which side is the drive side before I tighten the bolts.
Try screwing in one of the bottom bracket cups. The cups should tighten in the direction you pedal for forward motion. The right side cup should tighten in a clockwise direction, left side in a counter clockwise direction, just like pedals. The right side cup usually has a fixed flange, the left side cup will have a threaded lock nut.
 
  • Like
Reactions: toro1978
Feb 20, 2018
913
1,332
42
Germany, Leverkusen
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
And I have an unexpected problem - the headset is loose, it is almost like that headtube is 1 1/8" instead of 1".
But I have adapters for 1 1/8" to 1" and while they do fit the headset, the headtube is too tight for them.
IMG_20200724_154336.jpg

The original cup has around 32,5 mm outside diameter and the ahead cup has around 30 mm. The adapter ring is however 34 mm. Approximately.
IMG_20200724_155653.jpg

Do I try to sand the inside of the headtube? Do I try to shim the headset?
The original cup looks identical to the 1 1/8" threaded cups I have installed in the old fully.
But then why wouldn't the adapters fit?
 
  • Like
Reactions: kingfish254
Feb 20, 2018
913
1,332
42
Germany, Leverkusen
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Try screwing in one of the bottom bracket cups. The cups should tighten in the direction you pedal for forward motion. The right side cup should tighten in a clockwise direction, left side in a counter clockwise direction, just like pedals. The right side cup usually has a fixed flange, the left side cup will have a threaded lock nut.
I don't have a BB yet.
 
Feb 20, 2018
913
1,332
42
Germany, Leverkusen
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I shimmed the headset using some simple mounting metal band. It is not as tight as it should be, but satisfactory.
IMG_20200725_130044.jpg

Needless to say I am not thrilled about the black color, but still happy that I got a headset at all.
It would turn out that this frame uses BMX headset, which has correctly 32,8 (32,7) mm outside cup diameter. A standard 1" headset uses however 30 mm cups. And then 1 1/8" uses 34 mm. That is what I found out and that explains why my 1 1/8" to 1" adaptor ring won't work.
So to properly install that fork I either need 1" to BMX adaptor or a BMX ahead Headset. Well, on the positive side I learned something new. It also explains why that bike originally had a BMX type fork installed.
 
Feb 20, 2018
913
1,332
42
Germany, Leverkusen
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I should speed it up a bit. I managed to install my new headset.
IMG_20200809_175817.jpg

I might use another stem, maybe other bars... I won't even know until I have the wheels installed.
That's my improvised headset press:
IMG_20200809_173132.jpg

I must admit it was quite tricky to keep the cups level.
Next, a crucial step, is to drill the extension.
 
Feb 20, 2018
913
1,332
42
Germany, Leverkusen
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
By the way, the weather here is a blistering heat. It has been quite dry and hot for weeks now and that's why this frame still has no rust at all, even though I touch it with my bare sweaty hands (I work on the bikes bare handed unless it is a dirty work) and I have dropped quite a lot of sweat on it.
But under the rain it rusts like any other bike, it had stood 2 years outside when I got it. It comes from a a weird bike too - V brakes, mtb rims with knobby whitewall tires and 5 speed cassette and derailer in the rear (yes, it is actually spaced 135 mm), a huge comfy, but ugly seat, bmx fork and stem, and reaaaaally nice chrome 22 mm moon handlebars. And sweet Shimano SiS brake levers. They went on my black Felt (because there is a bike hierarchy in my home and the black Felt is on top of it).
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: BartRidesEternal
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
By the way, the weather here is a blistering heat. It has been quite dry and hot for weeks now and that's why this frame still has no rust at all, even though I touch it with my bare sweaty hands (I work on the bikes bare handed unless it is a dirty work) and I have dropped quite a lot of sweat on it.
But under the rain it rusts like any other bike, it had stood 2 years outside when I got it. It comes from a a weird bike too - V brakes, mtb rims with knobby whitewall tires and 5 speed cassette and derailer in the rear (yes, it is actually spaced 135 mm), a huge comfy, but ugly seat, bmx fork and stem, and reaaaaally nice chrome 22 mm moon handlebars. And sweet Shimano SiS brake levers. They went on my black Felt (because there is a bike hierarchy in my home and the black Felt is on top of it).
Its sweaty here in the Netherlands aswel. I don't like it that much.
I went cycling with my Electra Ratrod to get some groceries and the wind was really nice, but when you have to stop... :43:
Can you put a old shirt in vinegar and salt, make it really wet and lay it over your frame? I could get quite smelly.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: sandman

Members online

The Bike Wall BOXKARS Clyde James Cycles