Colson Klunker

Sep 13, 2007
645
24
Northeast Alabama
OK I'm in. Had to scrounge up some stuff for the buildoff. Did not have a DX frame. I've got a prewar B-6, but sadly the frame is broken. The only other frame available is a Colson and I hesitated about using it due to the odd seatpost size (3/4"). Finally, I decided to use the Colson frame and the fork from the B-6 and going to do what some of you guys are doing for the seatpost.



Here is the Colson frame when I first got it. The fork that came with it was bent and not original. The green had to go.



Here it is after the green was gone.



Here is the donor bike. In addition to the fork, it has a 1939 date code Morrow. I'm also going to use the rims.



Here is the frame after two coats of Duplicolor blue metallic. Thanks!!!
 
Aug 21, 2008
258
57
ORANGE COUNTY, CA
looks like my frame. mine is a huffman. but what are people doing to the seat post? iwas going to weild a sleeve on it so i can use a newer seat. i have two at the moment that i need to do something with the seat post.
 
Sep 13, 2007
645
24
Northeast Alabama
Thanks guys for all the comments!!! I got the seatpost in yesterday. Actually I got a piece of 3/4" X 36" round aluminum rod (6061-T6511) from W.W. Grainger Co. (item # 2EYG7) and one pack of three reducing bushings, 1" OD X 3/4" ID (item # 2X775) for about $25. See page 2956 of catalog #399 for the other size bars they sell. I'm sure someone else sells the same thing. I'll attach a reducing bushing to the top of the post for the seat clamp. It will work fine for that and you should have enough material for two seatpost's. Thanks!!!
 
Mar 4, 2008
2,555
107
Shoreline, CT
ifitsfreeitsforme said:
oh that color is great! crap, i was just saying yesterday to thatismytruck that i'm thinking of painting a similar frame a color just like that.
I love that Dupli-Color. I've used it on my Raliegh in 1980 and used a Krylon version on "My Sized Muscle Bike". It's a very similar color to what my Dad's 68 Charger was (car I learned to drive on). ifitsfreeitsforme uses it for everything (slight exaggeration). Car, microwave, motorcycle, bike (we renamed it "Ian Blue"). He wanted to use it for his "Copy-cat" bike, now he's rethinking. I think he should still use it.
 
Sep 13, 2007
645
24
Northeast Alabama
I wish I had more time to let the frame sit out in the sunlight while it cures. That would kinda help bleach out some of the metallic particals in the paint and add some more luster to it.

One other thing about using the aluminum for the seatpost. I've seen some bikes that used a keyway in the seat tube and that might have to be cut into the post. I also plan to use some anti-sieze compound to prevent galvanization between the aluminum post and the steel frame. Thanks!!!
 
Sep 13, 2007
645
24
Northeast Alabama
A little more progress on the Colson.



Just drill four holes in each side? I've found this opens up a whole new can of worms about spoking the wheel, and at this point, I've had to back up and punt!! After some thought, I think I've figured out a way through the mush.



I started out using some 20 year old Duplicolor that I bought at a bargain. I wanted the light blue to be a little more light than it turned out. Oh well, live and learn? But overall I'm kinda happy with it so far. It's been fun. Thanks!!!
 
May 16, 2007
198
2
Gladstone Mo.
A pinstripe would separate the two blues nicely...
My first thought was a hunter green...
Minor contrast... :?
On second thought is a nice bright orange…
Maybe a dark orange…
Separate the blues with a kick of color... 8)
Just thoughts...

ponytailmike
mike
 

cman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2006
10,823
836
Boise,ID
Yes you will have a hard time just inserting four random holes then trying to lace. The best is always to match the rim and the hubs. I had a Grimea drum hub like that and ended up ordering a 28hole rim.
Here are some reasonable prices for some 28 holes.
http://www.firstflightbikes.com/wheels-r.htm

Scroll down further and they have a set of Araya Drums- 36 hole for 95 bucks. :p
 
Sep 13, 2007
645
24
Northeast Alabama
What I'm going to try is place spokes in all the proper holes first, and then tighten them to almost taught/true. Then I'll measure the length for all the odd spaced spokes in the hub, and they will have to be cut and threaded to length. It will be eight spokes on each side. Four of them will be shorter and four of them will be longer on each side. I don't want to make it too easy! Thanks!!!
 
Sep 13, 2007
645
24
Northeast Alabama
I appreciate advice on the color direction from you guys! I investigted different color suggestions.with the transition. The hunter green would work, but I felt it needed some custom blending to work right on this application. Since there are no funds for this build, I went with the most economical alternative and that was with some Pactra orange enamel. I did some 1/8" stripes in the orange and it looked great, but I felt the transition needed a little more visual. With the same round brush, I kept adding more until it started to ring. Consider this a rough draft as I don't have the hand/motor coordination that I once had, but I think you'll see the result just the same way. I was pleasantly surprised with the result. It looked like she was having a meltdown.



Thank you for your input on the color! I'm held up on the spoking of the wheels until my LBS gets the spokes in that was ordered. Thanks!!!!
 
Nov 28, 2007
901
31
Port-burbia!
As a new Colson owner, I am watching this thread with great interest. Thanks for the tip on W.W. Grainger. Prices seem more than fair. I didn't look, but do the do custom cuts?
 
Sep 13, 2007
645
24
Northeast Alabama
Got the rear wheel done and still working on the front.



Due to the odd spacing of the spokes in the drum hub, I'm having to custom cut some spokes. I just put them all in place first, then all the long ones are being cut and threaded one at a time. There are a couple of spokes that's going to be cut from longer spokes. I'm thinking that the guys that first built the first clunkers using a drum like this would have done the same thing?



Not finished with the front wheel yet and here I've got it tie-strapped in place for a mock-up. A good thing is that the drum hub is threaded for a freewheel and could be used on the rear. I'm using the 1939 date code Morrow on the rear. It had a half inch pitch sprocket on it originally and I changed it out with a 1946 date code Morrow that had a 1" pitch on it to match the front sprocket.
 
It's looking great. I'm curious what type and size of die you're using to make the threads on the spokes. I always thought spoke threads were some oddball pitch and diameter, and had to be made with a spoke threading machine. Please enlighten us. Thanks