Duck Norris!

Jul 16, 2019
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I have always wanted a cantilever frame. I love those curves! After a failed attempt a few years back with a 20" Schwinn knockoff, I was shopping for a 26" cruiser. Saw a listing for the Ducks Unlimited cruiser and had to check it out. I probably spent a little bit too much, but it was a fundraiser for a local pioneer museum, so, no big loss. First things first, rip off the tins and strip the foam off the bars. Move the bell to a less obtuse location. This one's going to be a hot rod! And maybe a sleeker seat... Here's a cheapo BMX seat from the parts pile.
IMG_20190701_140229386_HDR.jpg
 
Jul 16, 2019
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So it rides... Uhhh, what's that clunking sound from the front hub? Wow, whole lotta play there! And hey, is there an actual brake in that hub, or just sponges pushing against steel? This Chinese bike was not meant to be ridden! That's where the moose comes in... Found the second promo bike and swapped over the rims and hubs. Perfect function, and bonus, black hubs and spokes! And the Unlimited stickers had to go! All that's left is the panel and headbadge. This is how Duck Norris is currently running:
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Glamour shot:
IMG_20190901_142001189.jpg

The Duck in its natural environment, the St Lawrence Seaway
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Planning on switching the rusty chrome crank and star for the black snowflake from the moose
IMG_20190904_140142104.jpg

Just gotta get the tools. And grease. And learn how.
Also, need your advice. Fender? Tiny fender? No fender?
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If I do the fender, it'll get an offset white stripe and some hand done lettering.
 
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Maybe I've spent enough already for what is essentially worthless junk, but I desperately need new grips. And the BMX seat is only useful for photo shoots and trips to the corner store, so I'm using the creaky ugly cheap seat off the moose. Trying to find a brown leather, cruiserish seat and grips to match. Plus new pedals to replace tiny plastic ones on there now.
 
Feb 20, 2018
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I would say no fender. Also good call on the crank, that snowflake is pretty! You also don't need tools for OPC (one piece crank), just google "replace ashtabula crank". It is easier than me trying to explain, it is 5 minutes job. You need a pipe wrench and a flat screwdriver.
Also, good eye for glamour shots. But you should try shooting widescreen.
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Feb 20, 2018
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I'd reccomend cork grips. Very comfy, a bit thick in diameter, but provide a nice grip. Not expensive. Over here can be bought for as little as 10 Euro ( That's 12-13$ I think).
Pedals - bear traps perhaps?
 
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I got a few hours to work on the Duck, so I started on panels to replace the boring steel one. Started with a little bit of CAD (cardboard aided design)
IMG_20190904_132835448.jpg
A couple of pieces of scrap I had laying around, (pine maybe?), a jigsaw, and a sander. Clamped the 2 together and shaped them up for a decent match.
IMG_20190904_133007030.jpg
A few minutes adjusting the gaps, and it's not too bad!
IMG_20190904_133259113.jpg
 
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$#!+! Know what happens when you have no idea what you're doing, and don't bother to measure stuff? Turns out that the mounting bracket for the panel isn't centered on the frame, so the left side sticks out about .5 cm.
IMG_20190904_133533568.jpg
Since I don't have decent tools, it's off to an actual woodworker's shop to be shaved down. Then I'll stain them brown, and paint a little bit of artwork. Think vintage hotrod mascot and maybe a number. I'm kinda slow, so this might be a winter project.
 
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Lol too late, the left panel is now thin. Just got it back this afternoon. I can't adjust the brackets, they're welded directly to the frame, similar to a chain guard mount. I guess "tabs" would be more accurate.
IMG_20190907_140234007.jpg
That reminds me, still gotta grind off the chain guard tabs.
 
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oh, those... Actually it is cool that you have them. I have cable guides instead on my cantilever frame :D If I decide to make a tank I will have to grind them off first and then look for brackets or use zip ties :D
 
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Progress on the panels: they're planed to the proper thickness, shaped,sanded, and holes drilled.
Test fit:
IMG_20190930_112816572.jpg

IMG_20190930_112916007.jpg

A few drops of Tung oil:
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Once the color is done and dried, I'll mount them and get to work on graphics. I'm gonna paint a hot rod duck mascot, something like that Clay Smith woodpecker on one side, and a number/stripe on the other. It'll be a winter project.
 
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Woo hoo! Actual nice weather up here in Canada today, almost 20° (that's like 70 Freedom Units)! Took the Diamondback out for a couple of miles. Boy, BMXs were not made for long rides! Also, watch for fallen leaves, almost took a spill when I locked up the brakes. Feeling invigorated, I decided to go at the Duck. Swapped out the crank, cups, and bearings for the ones from the moose. You super builders probably would have had a laff or two at my antics. A few choice words later, and some fresh grease*, and I'm done! Here's how he looks now.
IMG_20191029_123454136.jpg
*A word on grease. Never assume. The moose had nothing. Bone dry. Probably never had any in its entire life. I don't think it had ever been ridden, and I never took it out beyond the test ride, less than two blocks. Cleaned the bearings anyhow, fresh white grease is better than what was in the Duck.
I assume that whatever was in the Duck was grease, although human feces isn't completely out of the question
 
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Dangit. Test ride wasn't perfect. Anybody ever heard of the Buzzcocks? British punk band with a song called Something's Gone Wrong Again", I think it will be my garage theme song.
"Nothing ever happens to people like us,
Except we miss the bus.
Something's gone wrong again!"
I am getting a noise from the chain now. Almost like the sound when the chain hits and out of alignment derailleur. I can't see it hit anything, so I assume it's a chainline issue. I don't know if it can be diagnosed from a picture, but you can see that every second tooth is right up against the chain.
IMG_20191029_123638685.jpg
Anyone have a method of finding out about alignment, or tips for easy, cheap fixes?
 
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Looks like the chainring needs to move ‘out’ or ‘away’ from the frame just a little bit.

Here’s what I did to fix the same issue about a week ago.

1. Remove the crankset
2. Unscrew the bearing cone that holds the chainring against the crank
3. Put a thin washer/spacer over the crank first, then reinstall the cone ring. This will move the chainring away from the frame.
4. Reinstall the crankset

NOTE: you only need/want a thin spacer (like 1/32 to 1/16”) or you will have a reverse scenario or not enough threads to keep the crank from hitting the non-drive side of the frame.
I think I bought a bag of thin washers at Home Depot to use for this.

There is another option, it is to flip the rear sprocket. They are typically dished and in most cases are installed with the ‘dish’ facing inward, simply pop off the retaining ring (can be a pain) flip the cog and reinstall the ring (can also be a pain). A pointed awl pushed into the cutaways on the cog will help stretch out the retaining ring (see pic)


Both have worked for me to aid in alignment or provide chain clearance from the frame when running wide tires.

Hope this helps.




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