So I'm rebuilding a 79 schwinn cruiser that I bought at garage sale, after I got it home I noticed it had a nexus 3spd hub and freewheel, I thought cool, even better! it has a barely working front cantilever semi attached so I promply bought a new rear cantilever brake assembly, went to the garage to bolt it on and to my surprise the rear bar to attach it to has the bolt through hole going the wrong way, I'm assuming for attaching a fender. My question would be, is there any type of adapter that will allow me to use the existing rear bar, or maybe attach it to the frame sides somehow? I'm looking for a bolt on solution since I don't have a welder. Or are there any other rear brake options out there besides the bottom of my shoe? I guess I really should've taken a closer look at the bike
FAIL! (rear brake issue) -- Update 5/17 - Now with pics!
- Thread starter slim724
- Start date
Help Support Rat Rod Bikes Bicycle Forum:
Re: FAIL! (rear brake issue)
Schwinn coaster frames all used a rear arch that had only a hole perpendicular to the tire tread for mounting a fender. The multispeed bikes had a rear arch with a flat bracket welded in such a way to hold a caliper brake. in the 20" bikes, that was the difference between a coaster Stingray and a 5-speed Krate or Stingray or 3-speed Deluxe.
And yeah, there's no way to modify the frame short of cutting out one type of arch and welding in the other one. Something nobody wants to do, even on a bike getting repainted.
There is an adapter made to change the brake mount. Hyper-Formance has offered these for sale, and you can at least see pictures of them, in the Parts section of their web site : http://www.hyper-formance.com
I don't know if I'd trust the rear fender bracket for brake duty. They don't seem all that strong, and it is your stopping ability we're talking about here. If you find something secure enough, you can test it and decide if it's rugged enough for everyday use.
For the front, there's no reason you can't have an effective brake on there. At least get that one working. I'm not sure which model you're talking about, since "cruiser" is used for a lot of styles of bike, but it sounds like you mean an actual Schwinn Cruiser badged model.
The bike probably came with a coaster-brake single speed rear hub, and you could go back to that, or find a drum-brake rear wheel, like one from a tandem, or a 3-spd coaster, made by either Sturmey Archer or Shimano (now probably badged as a Nexus.)
Any of those options will give you a rear brake without having to change the frame or rig up some way to mount a caliper.
I just built a ladies '47 Schwinn into a 5-speed for my wife using a drum/5-spd rear wheel.
Good luck!
--Rob
Schwinn coaster frames all used a rear arch that had only a hole perpendicular to the tire tread for mounting a fender. The multispeed bikes had a rear arch with a flat bracket welded in such a way to hold a caliper brake. in the 20" bikes, that was the difference between a coaster Stingray and a 5-speed Krate or Stingray or 3-speed Deluxe.
And yeah, there's no way to modify the frame short of cutting out one type of arch and welding in the other one. Something nobody wants to do, even on a bike getting repainted.
There is an adapter made to change the brake mount. Hyper-Formance has offered these for sale, and you can at least see pictures of them, in the Parts section of their web site : http://www.hyper-formance.com
I don't know if I'd trust the rear fender bracket for brake duty. They don't seem all that strong, and it is your stopping ability we're talking about here. If you find something secure enough, you can test it and decide if it's rugged enough for everyday use.
For the front, there's no reason you can't have an effective brake on there. At least get that one working. I'm not sure which model you're talking about, since "cruiser" is used for a lot of styles of bike, but it sounds like you mean an actual Schwinn Cruiser badged model.
The bike probably came with a coaster-brake single speed rear hub, and you could go back to that, or find a drum-brake rear wheel, like one from a tandem, or a 3-spd coaster, made by either Sturmey Archer or Shimano (now probably badged as a Nexus.)
Any of those options will give you a rear brake without having to change the frame or rig up some way to mount a caliper.
I just built a ladies '47 Schwinn into a 5-speed for my wife using a drum/5-spd rear wheel.
Good luck!
--Rob
slim724 said:
Re: FAIL! (rear brake issue)
Dont need no stinkin brakes man :mrgreen:. You only need them when ya stop :shock:.
Dont need no stinkin brakes man :mrgreen:. You only need them when ya stop :shock:.
Re: FAIL! (rear brake issue)
I have a newer full suspension cheapie mountain bike and a newer Haro BMX to cannabalize from, I think the mtn bike has a brake plate on the front fork I'm going to get up and check after I make some breakfast. I found a pic last night of a cruiser with a brake plate mounted high, attached with steel clamps, I like the idea of having it low much better, thanks for all the ideas, I have some thinking to do over breakfast
I have a newer full suspension cheapie mountain bike and a newer Haro BMX to cannabalize from, I think the mtn bike has a brake plate on the front fork I'm going to get up and check after I make some breakfast. I found a pic last night of a cruiser with a brake plate mounted high, attached with steel clamps, I like the idea of having it low much better, thanks for all the ideas, I have some thinking to do over breakfast
Re: FAIL! (rear brake issue)
Some old Huffy mtn bikes had a cantilever setup that bolted onto the frame with a horseshoe shaped bracket. In the past I've made use of these, attaching them with a hose clamps to the seat stays. V- brakes will mount to them, and I've stiffened them up with an aftermarket brace attached to the mounts.
Some old Huffy mtn bikes had a cantilever setup that bolted onto the frame with a horseshoe shaped bracket. In the past I've made use of these, attaching them with a hose clamps to the seat stays. V- brakes will mount to them, and I've stiffened them up with an aftermarket brace attached to the mounts.
Re: FAIL! (rear brake issue)
As kids, we just stuck our foot between the kickstand and rear tire.
There is a better way. I got the idea from an old conversion someone did to a 64 Starlet. They put a standard 3 speed wheel on and made up a bracket that bolted through 1/4 holes drilled in the stays. The brake then bolted to the middle of the bracket. If you didn't want to drill holes, the bracket could bolt up like a clamp on the frame. When I redid that bike for a neighbor, I made it 6 speed and used those same holes with a better homemade plate for the rear brake.
As kids, we just stuck our foot between the kickstand and rear tire.
There is a better way. I got the idea from an old conversion someone did to a 64 Starlet. They put a standard 3 speed wheel on and made up a bracket that bolted through 1/4 holes drilled in the stays. The brake then bolted to the middle of the bracket. If you didn't want to drill holes, the bracket could bolt up like a clamp on the frame. When I redid that bike for a neighbor, I made it 6 speed and used those same holes with a better homemade plate for the rear brake.
Re: FAIL! (rear brake issue)
Well I checked out the haro and the has the lugs welded to the frame so there's no brake plates to use, the mtn bike has a plate on the front fork but it's welded on. I found some flat plate steel laying around so I'm thinking of cutting a custom clamp type bracket since I don't want to drill into the frame my only worry is how strong the adapter would be with it only being clamped together with a couple of bolts
Well I checked out the haro and the has the lugs welded to the frame so there's no brake plates to use, the mtn bike has a plate on the front fork but it's welded on. I found some flat plate steel laying around so I'm thinking of cutting a custom clamp type bracket since I don't want to drill into the frame my only worry is how strong the adapter would be with it only being clamped together with a couple of bolts
Re: FAIL! (rear brake issue)
There are clamp-on rack brackets that would work, but fabbing your own may result in a better fit , You could cut one side way down on a piece of angle iron for rigidity, notch for the frame stays, then it could be pressed together with just the brake bolt, it holds the brake already, after all. :|
There are clamp-on rack brackets that would work, but fabbing your own may result in a better fit , You could cut one side way down on a piece of angle iron for rigidity, notch for the frame stays, then it could be pressed together with just the brake bolt, it holds the brake already, after all. :|
Re: FAIL! (rear brake issue)
I guess this is what you're trying-
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=26495&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=15
I guess this is what you're trying-
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=26495&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=15
Re: FAIL! (rear brake issue)
Yep something like that, except the plate I'm using is thinner gauge and cut triangular shaped to match the curves of the frame more, I'm going to use 4 small bolts on the inside area of the frame rather than outside, but right now I'm having trouble drilling the holes, I've gone through 2 new bits, and actually melted the tip off a dremel cutting tip in a partially drilled hole that left a Hershey kiss like dab of metal in the area I partially drilled, awesome!
Yep something like that, except the plate I'm using is thinner gauge and cut triangular shaped to match the curves of the frame more, I'm going to use 4 small bolts on the inside area of the frame rather than outside, but right now I'm having trouble drilling the holes, I've gone through 2 new bits, and actually melted the tip off a dremel cutting tip in a partially drilled hole that left a Hershey kiss like dab of metal in the area I partially drilled, awesome!
Re: FAIL! (rear brake issue)
Bought a new bit for hardened steel, still no luck drilling the hole for 30 mins, so I gave up on my triangular plate adapter. After seeing blackphantom's thread about his same brake issue, I went to the store bought the same exact piece, it has pre-drilled holes and made the same adapter. It works and only took a few hrs, mainly because I painted mine and rounded the edges with a file, I also added metal tube shielding for all 3 bolts to go through, looks a little nicer and makes it so you can't overtighten and bend the braces. Thanks deorman for pointing me to that thread, and thanks blackphantom for a ridiculously cheap adapter that works! I took pics, but I'll have to post them another time when I get some time
Bought a new bit for hardened steel, still no luck drilling the hole for 30 mins, so I gave up on my triangular plate adapter. After seeing blackphantom's thread about his same brake issue, I went to the store bought the same exact piece, it has pre-drilled holes and made the same adapter. It works and only took a few hrs, mainly because I painted mine and rounded the edges with a file, I also added metal tube shielding for all 3 bolts to go through, looks a little nicer and makes it so you can't overtighten and bend the braces. Thanks deorman for pointing me to that thread, and thanks blackphantom for a ridiculously cheap adapter that works! I took pics, but I'll have to post them another time when I get some time
Re: FAIL! (rear brake issue)
Glad to be of service, Post a pic so we can see the new design. I am also grinding out some more of the brace to make room for mud shedding and to give the tire some breathing room. I plan on prettying up mine a bit too. I just consider it a prototype that worked on the first try.
Glad to be of service, Post a pic so we can see the new design. I am also grinding out some more of the brace to make room for mud shedding and to give the tire some breathing room. I plan on prettying up mine a bit too. I just consider it a prototype that worked on the first try.
Re: FAIL! (rear brake issue)
how are you drilling the holes , the new drill should have worked . if you are using a drill press , set the belts at the slowest speed , or you will just melt the drill
how are you drilling the holes , the new drill should have worked . if you are using a drill press , set the belts at the slowest speed , or you will just melt the drill
Re: FAIL! (rear brake issue)
finally some pics to go with the thread
the steel plate for original adapter idea
cut the 2 plates
the hardware to bolt it together
now all I had to do is drill the holes
I went through 3 drill bits, and actually melted the tip off a dremel cutting bit that left like a spot weld in the partially drilled hole :shock: you can kind of see it in this pic
I was able to remove the dab of metal with a lrge screwdriver and hammer, it shot out and ricocheted throught the garage like a beebee! I then went to the store bought a new bit for hardened steel and got back to drilling, after a half hour and almost no progress, I started to like the solution deorman pointed me to that blackphantom came up with, so I went to the store again and started on that type of adapter
straight steel re-enforcement strap, a few dollars at the store, it has pre-drilled holes that fit perfectly, cut with a hacksaw, shaped with a hand file
I then painted it with some spray paint I had
I added some metal tube shielding to go around all the bolts so you can't overtighten and bend the brace
some daylight pics
it is really nice to have brakes again, thanks to all for your help and ideas
finally some pics to go with the thread
the steel plate for original adapter idea
cut the 2 plates
the hardware to bolt it together
now all I had to do is drill the holes
I went through 3 drill bits, and actually melted the tip off a dremel cutting bit that left like a spot weld in the partially drilled hole :shock: you can kind of see it in this pic
I was able to remove the dab of metal with a lrge screwdriver and hammer, it shot out and ricocheted throught the garage like a beebee! I then went to the store bought a new bit for hardened steel and got back to drilling, after a half hour and almost no progress, I started to like the solution deorman pointed me to that blackphantom came up with, so I went to the store again and started on that type of adapter
straight steel re-enforcement strap, a few dollars at the store, it has pre-drilled holes that fit perfectly, cut with a hacksaw, shaped with a hand file
I then painted it with some spray paint I had
I added some metal tube shielding to go around all the bolts so you can't overtighten and bend the brace
some daylight pics
it is really nice to have brakes again, thanks to all for your help and ideas
You mean like with a crank? Or just hand held? If it's electric it needs to be variable speed, full blast may just push the iron molecules around, instead of cutting it. Never tried hand crank on metal, no opinion on that.
