Felt Torch Chopper

Feb 20, 2018
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I happened upon a discussion on FB where a fellow from the German group mentioned he had a Torch he would be willing to be deprived of for a fair monetary compensation.
So I thought about it for a day or two and since the good gentleman lives just nearby, 25 minutes by train I messaged. (I'd swapped a front wheel with him before).
received_377164150339626.jpeg

So exchange took place.
IMG_20201006_180536.jpg

It has the common 24/26 inch wheelset. A combination I must admit I don't particularly like. I had it for long on my electric Felt and I was happy when I finally could switch to 24/24 inch wheels.
Also that red frame with the chrome fork deserve better than a black wheelset.
So I tried just for looks a 24" rim with a 2,125 tire:
IMG_20201009_080255.jpg

IMG_20201009_094812.jpg

While I do like it, it lowers the BB too much, I don't want to lose pedal clearance. Also I have something else in mind...
I tried the moped seat, might stay, have to ride.
Also slapped a headlight on it, will probably order a chrome one. They are actually plastic and very light.
 
Feb 20, 2018
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IMG_20201009_104110.jpg

IMG_20201009_104130.jpg
IMG_20201009_104150.jpg

I will later do the front wheel too. Same tire, same size.
I am not sure about the fender, I think I will remove it... Or maybe flip it...
Once I am done with the wheels I want to find a solution to use my own handlebars instead of what comes with the fork.
 

kingfish254

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Great score! I have always loved how the handlebars extend and retract into the fork legs on those Felt choppers.
 
Feb 20, 2018
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I like the idea behind the bars, but not so much the look.
The result is highly overrated because once it starts accumulating rust the adjustment becomes very hard. I once got the bars as low as I could, but the one side wouldn't go deeper. So today I got them out. It was an epic fight and my arms and shoulders still hurt.
IMG_20201010_185539.jpg

So I sprayed some wd40 in the legs and I will keep on spraying until they move easily.
If they don't I will consider trimming them a bit to get them all the way in.
But I am also considering trimming the grips and use the ends to attach quill stems to them, similar to clip on bars.
IMG_20201010_185834.jpg

Only not attached directly to the fork. This will also allow for more adjustability.
Using stems will allow me to use a reversed brake lever and run the cable through the opening for the shaft bolt.
There are other neat tricks like using quill stems in the fork legs to use as direct mount moto style, but the Felt fork (made by zoom actually, according to small stickers on it) has too thick legs.
I think I will switch to bsa BB and look for a crankset similar to the one on the Carcass bike.
I tried a few seats, but in the end on this bike there can be only one:
IMG_20201010_185659.jpg

I am not a sucker for paint but this one I rather like:
IMG_20201010_185929.jpg
 
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Feb 20, 2018
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Hopefully, the larger front tire will raise the front end (and BB). Gonna look cool with them on it.


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With the 3" tire it will be ok.

The front brake cable and housing must be replaced. I might look for suitable chain adjusters.
Also not sure, but I think that rear triangle could take 26x3.0. But we all know what happened last time I made such assumption...
 
Feb 20, 2018
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I found on the buy/sale German group a guy who was offering handlebars and there was a pair of Felt Chopper "grips" for a 20, so I bought them. I will be able to cut them any way I want and still have a an original pair in case I decide to replace the fork in the future.
The wd40 therapy bore fruit - the grips can be easily inserted. I put them back in so I can put the bike upside down to remove the front tire. It is too large for the bike stand.
That's the fork ends, I quite like them rounded like that:
IMG_20201013_204200.jpg

(as opposed to the fork from the Cafe 750)
There is a small opening underneath the lower crown, it turns out it takes a m6 bolt, nice:
IMG_20201013_204326.jpg

The BB is massively reinforced:
IMG_20201013_204443.jpg

The downtube shows traces of lowrider activity.
So I dressed the front wheel in Creme as well and there's the finished wheelset:
IMG_20201013_204641.jpg

These are in fact the wheels from the Felt Haribo.
I have to run a new cable for the front brake and I have some of my stuff I will use:
IMG_20201013_204842.jpg

I was also happy to find my missing Allen key:
IMG_20201013_204951.jpg

I also found my 14/15 wrench the other day so I I only need to find my cable cutter...
 
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Feb 20, 2018
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Getting ready to mount the wheels.
IMG_20201015_001103.jpg

As you can see because of the design of the rear triangle you do not need to break the chain. In my case it might be needed to break it open though, because my rear cog has 20 teeth while the original one has 22.
Or I could swap the cogs.
The drive train is still in planning. I don't know what to do about it right now. Put these pedals on it though. The reflectors have to go.
IMG_20201015_001842.jpg

But as I said I am tempted to redo the BB in bsa. Hollow tech II is interesting as a possibility, but would I notice any difference to square taper to justify the cost? I kind of doubt it.
In the future I see it with an electric mid motor though...
 
Feb 20, 2018
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So I installed the wheels, also got the fender in a position where it would actually be useful:
IMG_20201021_105317.jpg

The seat will have to go back to the Carcass bike - as you can see the front spring and the tank prevent it from go low enough.
I have an used moped seat on the way (just like the one on the fully only in brown and with thick leather instead of foam), but if I don't like it on this bike I will probably get a used Brooks b66 or 67, because they have an angled frame and spring only in the rear, also only the top row.
I have the bars as low as possible:
IMG_20201021_105329.jpg

The front end should be something like this (might very well stay like this):
IMG_20201021_095115.jpg

I am still considering what to do with the drive train - I could get the 3pc cranks I have (178 mm), or I could use the 6" opc I have. Moving the/a seat lower and further back might require the shorter opc.
I want to ride it some before I decide on the final version.
These did arrive today and will be used for sure:
IMG_20201021_094931.jpg

They are 9/16 thread, but I have adapters so I can use them with the opc cranks.
 
Jul 10, 2018
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I'm factoring his inseam:giggle: Low seat height and avoiding pedals strikes. The advantage I see here going longer is for additional torque to climb hills because you can't get out of the saddle. Then again the bike is geared.... 6 1/2'' is my absolute minimum.
 
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Feb 20, 2018
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Lol, sorry. They are 170 mm. I pressed 8 instead of 0 by mistake, with my fat finger.
I don't even know is there such a thing as 178 mm, I know 175 exist.
Actually my bikes always have to be rideable - riding position must be comfortable and pedals have to have enough clearance.

The headlight looks nice, but it is all plastic - you can see there is a piece of the grill missing. It is because I dropped the headlight. The advantage is the low weight.
 
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Jul 10, 2018
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there are 78's but for 3 piece which was a tad confusing seeing only single crank parts around.

The headlight looks nice, but it is all plastic - you can see there is a piece of the grill missing. It is because I dropped the headlight. The advantage is the low weight.
Well now that you pointed out it's plastic and busted I don't like it anymore.
 
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Feb 20, 2018
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Getting there...
I received the seat and mounted it:
IMG_20201024_200911.jpg
IMG_20201024_200930.jpg

I also mounted the pedals just to see them on the bike:
IMG_20201024_200959.jpg

The adapters make for a q factor way too big (hence reduced pedal clearance in corners), but I just scored a really beautiful 165 mm square taper crankset so in the end the drive train will be converted from us BB to bsa.
Not a cheap pleasure since it is a spider crankset and I will have to get a chainring and bolts. Also "us BB to bsa" adapter and a bsa BB.
 
Feb 20, 2018
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I have to report that the seat is not suitable for this bike. Unfortunately it is prone to tip over. There is simply too much leverage at the seat clamp.
But then I had an epiphany. I can simply use a patent seat post - less parts, hence simplicity, plus lower profile:
IMG_20201027_122610.jpg

This is the nirve seat that the bike came with. As you can see the frame has a curve at the end which prevents it from being moved forward. It works like that, but it should be more to the front, closer to the tank. So the quest for a seat continues... Most wide seats I have don't have the rail frame, so can't be used with a patent seat post. The Brooks has rails though, so it might come back.
My cranks have been shipped so I will be looking for a chainring with the following specs - 144, 1/8, 42-44 teeth. Easy find, but not cheap. It will have to be in silver too.
 
Feb 20, 2018
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This seat actually does not look bad at all, on the first glance, it also goes well with the fender because of that arch on the seat frame:
IMG_20201027_125201.jpg

It is however incredibly squeaky and has a tear on the left side:
IMG_20201027_125220.jpg

I am naturally very tempted to simply strip it bare, but I don't know what is underneath. I have this one which looks quite ugly with these bolt heads sticking out:
IMG_20201027_125241.jpg

So I don't know if it is even worth the effort.
 
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As you can see the frame has a curve at the end which prevents it from being moved forward. It works like that, but it should be more to the front, closer to the tank. So the quest for a seat continues...
If you flip the seatpost backwards to move the attachment point forward does it have enough tilt range to get the seat in the right position?
 
Feb 20, 2018
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Unfortunately no, because of the seat tube angle. Also this seat post has a bit of offset, maybe an inch. It is really just parts not working together - the seat tube has a little too much of an angle, the seat post has a little offset, the seat frame has that stupid arch right before it gets to the springs... I can change two of these and one would probably be enough.
 
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