i have a 3g chopper and im heavy.

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i have a 3g chopper and im heavy.
i have bent the seat post bad even tho it was only sticking out about 4 inches!
anyone got any cheap fix ideas...?
i was thinking about getting some solid round bar but dont want to pay for the fix if i can...was hopeing someone would know if oldschool bmx post would fit inside the 3g seat post or something like that....


hepl i cant ride again till its fixed!!!!! :(

brett
 
Brett go with the solid rod. No more problems. Turn the end down on a lathe and then bend it with heat. Make sure you heat it before you bend it. If you bend it cold you will weaken the metal. Once bent let it cool until the color is normal and quench it in water. Don't quench it while it's still glowing or it will be to brittle for a seat post. It would be really hard metal but fragile. Rule of thumb... slow cool for structural parts fast cool for parts that see contact like knifes and chisels and such. There's a lot more to it than that but this should do for a seat post. If your current post is straight just get rod in the right diameter and turn the end down on a lathe to match the seat clamp. No heat no worries mate!
 
got any metal supply stores around ya, theres a guy in town that does wrought iron work, hes got a ton of scrap this and that from different jobs, you can even order the stuff online tho they probly have a minimum order and shipping may be a but ton for what it is, hafta know what diameter you needed too.


any sites like this that are closer to ya (i have no idea what annealed means BTW)

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cf ... &top_cat=1
 
Hey Kingpin, I have used solid 5/8" steel cad finish steel ,(LOCAL Hardware Store or home depot or lowes), around $10 bucks, you can make 2 or 3 seat posts out of 3' stick of solid steel, Bent Cold, in a hole in my sidewalk and a 5' cheater bar pipe, using an angle gauge, bent the steel into my seat post. use a spacer,(3" or 4") cut lenghtwise to fill the tube, use stock seatpost clamp, may require change of seat camp to 5/8"s. Has worked for me and mine for the past summer. My ridin weight is bout 220, with 250 or so miles with that seat post there been no problems. what bike? my "Beer Bike" . And the "Starchief" has a bent post, works great. That my 2cents. good luck, Kingpin. Dangerous Dan
beerbike1.jpg

star1.jpg
 
Hey CCR, annealed means that it was heated and then cooled without allowing internal crystallization (I assumed they mean large scale crystallization, but it's been awhile since I had mineralogy). I'm a little confused by it's usage in metals, because, as I understand it, it means that it's at it's softest form, and thus allows you to work it cold. It's also less brittle in this stage. However, I've seen references where this means that it's also really strong, a little bit of a contradiction, depending on how you look at it.

Brett, annealed rod might actually be good, it's not brittle, and might, over a long time, bend out of shape slightly, but that would be better than snapping.
 
Dangratsdan,
Can you be more specific about the type of pipe and spacer..Hope this isnt hijacking a thread!!! Please let me know if it is?
 
jtdaddy, The pipe I used to bend the 5/8" steel rod was an old piece of water pipe, any thing strong enough to bend the rod. The pipes inside diameter should be as small as possible,and still bend the rod, this gives more control of the bending. The spacer is for filling between the new 5/8" rod bent seatpost and the inside of the seatpost tube (frame). That can vary, the Beer Biker an old cleveland welding frame only needed a shim of a few hundredths to fit, the Star Chief, a early 60's schwinn took a 3" to 4" long piece 3/4" condoit, then split it length wise using a dremel with a cutting wheel,this allows the spacer to be squeezed tight on the seat post when the seatpost clam is tightened. Well that about everything I know about bending a seatpost. It work for me. Dangratsdan.
 

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