New Departure brakes work as well as new stuff?

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I faced the disks on one I rebuilt on emery cloth stuck to a board it stopped great. The first one i did i didn' face them an it stopped poorly.
 
FWIW - I have one that someone else built that is weak. The one I just built is awesome. My discs were used, I did not face them, I do get everything super clean with carb cleaner, AND I used automotive differential lube on the discs and grease on everything else. And, it took some miles and some stops before it really started grabbing.
 
Interesting. Diff. oil should be good at hangin' around and not gumming up. Did you use straight weight or with additives? If you put the wrong one in a posi-trac unit it can grab so hard as to damage itself in turns. I tried tranny fluid in mine once, it stopped well, but sounded like last year's dump truck with a load pulling up to a 4-way.
 
deorman said:
Interesting. Diff. oil should be good at hangin' around and not gumming up. Did you use straight weight or with additives? If you put the wrong one in a posi-trac unit it can grab so hard as to damage itself in turns. I tried tranny fluid in mine once, it stopped well, but sounded like last year's dump truck with a load pulling up to a 4-way.
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Since the forces involved in a coaster hub are not even in the neighborhood of the forces used inside a differential, I would say, as an automotive technician with 16 years professional experience that the gear oil with additives is not need. There is no need for teflon in bike hubs. And since gear oil with additive is considerably more expensive than non-additive fluid, then there's the answer :D

Also transmission fluid would be completely wrong in all ways as it is extremely thin in viscosity. Transmission fluid only has a viscosity of 10 to 20 weight. Gear oil used in coaster hubs would be optimum at 80 to 120 weight.
 
Rub down those friction plates w emery paper, and make sure you get your New Departure hub all cleaned out and oiled up. It should out perform the new cheap hubs that are all the rage on cheapo bikes. Never simply "grease" and be done, always clean the components with parts wash solvent or automotive brake cleaner before grease and re-assembly.
 
Is there anywhere where there are pictures of these things being taken apart. I've got to do it soon, not afraid to rip into something I'm confident I can get it back. I just would like to know what parts yall are talking about so i have a idea what I need to clean up.
Thanks,
Jonathan
 
deorman said:
Interesting. Diff. oil should be good at hangin' around and not gumming up. Did you use straight weight or with additives? If you put the wrong one in a posi-trac unit it can grab so hard as to damage itself in turns. I tried tranny fluid in mine once, it stopped well, but sounded like last year's dump truck with a load pulling up to a 4-way.
Click to expand...

I used the standard gear lube, no positraction additives. For the record, I didn't just make this up. I read this procedure in an old manual speciifically written by and for New Departure hubs. They called it "Hypoid" back in those days.
 
Simple curiosity on my part. I certainly wouldn't expect either to damage a clutch hub, but there could be a performance difference. @ Youbugme2-here :arrow: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30484
 
These are the weirdest coaster brakes ever :? . It took me forever to put mine back together, and thankfully it worked. They kinda look like motorcycle clutches.
 

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