Not sure what I have

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I'm not sure if it's prewar, but man I love it. It looks like an old Raleigh maybe, but all of its decals have withered away, and the serial doesn't match any Raleigh serials online. I could only find one similar head badge online.
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Not sure what I got but for 25$, at the very least it's a good donor bike. Serial is on the bottom bracket, numbers are 1318409. I'll put it in the identification thread too.


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And the pic didn't show up well but the badge on the saddle either faded or left a print, first letter is W, last letter is S.


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After a little bit of googling, I think it's a 63 Raleigh sport deluxe.


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I think it's an early 1960s Raleigh built for Murray. I have what appears to be the same bike badged as a Western Flyer. Mine has a 1964 city license sticker from when my mother owned it. She bought it used so I would guess very late 50s to early 60s. Look on the Sturmey Archer rear hub, it has a manufacturing date on it. Nice coaster hub but they are usually 40 spoke and there are not a lot of replacement wheels available so I tossed mine out and replaced it with a Shimano Nexus coaster brake 3 speed which is easier to maintain and adjust.
 
I think it's an early 1960s Raleigh built for Murray. I have what appears to be the same bike badged as a Western Flyer. Mine has a 1964 city license sticker from when my mother owned it. She bought it used so I would guess very late 50s to early 60s. Look on the Sturmey Archer rear hub, it has a manufacturing date on it. Nice coaster hub but they are usually 40 spoke and there are not a lot of replacement wheels available so I tossed mine out and replaced it with a Shimano Nexus coaster brake 3 speed which is easier to maintain and adjust.
http://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_serials.html

this sight says 7 didgit serials were used between 63-39, starting with 1000000. thats y i figured 63-64.


anyway, is it worth making rideable again or should i just use it as a donor bike?
 
http://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_serials.html

this sight says 7 didgit serials were used between 63-39, starting with 1000000. thats y i figured 63-64.


anyway, is it worth making rideable again or should i just use it as a donor bike?
Not much fits other bikes from a Raleigh. Handle bars are 15/16 instead of an inch so the gooseneck is also not one inch. As I said, 40 spoke rear wheel. Bottom bracket is wider on old Raleigh's and the cotter pins/crank arms might not fit another bottom bracket. Its all original and all there so I would keep it looking original. Glue the seat tear, maybe new cables and if the 3 speed isn't working or not complete look for an old All Pro single speed coaster or something similar with 26 x 1 3/8 inch tires and swap the rear wheels. That way you have a cool old almost all original survivor. Mine is used quite a bit at our cabin in the woods. You may have to flat file the wheel axle or enlarge the rear drop out to get the new wheel to fit, I can't remember if it fits but I think you will need a little altering. Most of these have had the seat replaced, new grips and the chain guard removed so yours is cool, in my opinion. I would keep it looking as original as I could without going overboard and spending $ on something not that valuable.
 
Not much fits other bikes from a Raleigh. Handle bars are 15/16 instead of an inch so the gooseneck is also not one inch. As I said, 40 spoke rear wheel. Bottom bracket is wider on old Raleigh's and the cotter pins/crank arms might not fit another bottom bracket. Its all original and all there so I would keep it looking original. Glue the seat tear, maybe new cables and if the 3 speed isn't working or not complete look for an old All Pro single speed coaster or something similar with 26 x 1 3/8 inch tires and swap the rear wheels. That way you have a cool old almost all original survivor. Mine is used quite a bit at our cabin in the woods. You may have to flat file the wheel axle or enlarge the rear drop out to get the new wheel to fit, I can't remember if it fits but I think you will need a little altering. Most of these have had the seat replaced, new grips and the chain guard removed so yours is cool, in my opinion. I would keep it looking as original as I could without going overboard and spending $ on something not that valuable.
well im pretty sure the rear wheel was replaced at some point, its a single speed sturmey archer from 84. but yeah, sounds like my fiance just got bike 2
 
I just posted on the other thread, hadn't read this one. I think it's a 60's also because of the chain ring. That style was used on all the lightweight brands Raleigh made (except their own Raleigh bikes). Earlier models before the take over in 1960 had their own chain wheels. Having a one speed is a big plus, no cable to adjust and coaster brakes. My Robin Hood has the same frame and forks as yours, but I didn't have any wheels, so I made it a one speed and it worked well. The paint color came back nicely. I would just use some light oil on the bearings (cranks and steering and axles) and see how well it does. The bearings are probably loose, meaning it's a little more difficult to tear it down, lube everything and put it back. You'll also not have to redo the cotters on the cranks, which can be difficult. 3 of my 4 bikes have cottered cranks, so I'm used to them, but it's best to avoid having to replace them.
I would put new 26 x 1 3/8's whitewalls on it after getting everything moving properly and waxing it a couple times. Here's a Phillips and a Robin Hood (both made by Raleigh in the 60's) I did that with:
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And the pic didn't show up well but the badge on the saddle either faded or left a print, first letter is W, last letter is S.


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Wrights saddle. The lower quality saddle of Brooks.
The head badge is Sportcrest, probably a department store brand. I had a few girls/boys bikes, all 3 speed, I don't remember if they were Sturmey-Archer. Probably made in England in 60's
 

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