Options for replacing a headset?

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mornview

mornview

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I'm looking to replace the headset on an old, Chicago-made lightweight Schwinn cruiser. I took the measurements, the headset's SHIS code would be:

EC33/25.4-24tpi
EC33/26

... since I obtained these measurements:

24tpi fork, 1" diameter
Cups have an O.D. of 32.6mm
Crown race seat measures 26.4mm
Takes a stem of 22.2mm

It seems to be that last one - the 22.2mm stem - that's the kicker. According to my research this headest combination was only ever common on old BMX bikes, and of course they all seemingly exclusively took 21.1mm stems.

As far as I can tell from my research, basically my only option is the Tange AW-27. Or, of course, an old, identical headset off another Schwinn.

I wonder if this was an uncommon headset combination for old Schwinns? You'd think, with all the old Schwinns kicking around, I'd have more of a selection ... but maybe my bike is an oddball.

In any case, I just wanted to know if there are any other options out there that I'm missing. It should be noted that I do want to keep the existing fork; otherwise I'd have more options.

Thanks!
 
... and upon further research it appears the Tange AW may also only take a 21.1mm stem. Man, that stem diameter is really complicating things!
 
Yep, it is definitely 22.2mm. I've tried putting other (clearly labeled) 22.2mm stems in there and they go in just fine; my calipers also reveals the headset to take a 22.2mm stem.

The original stem actually measures 21.7mm, but I've tried putting it in a 21.1mm headset and it's a no-go.

Of course I could just get a 21.1mm headset and switch over to a 21.1mm stem ... but I'd really rather not if I can avoid it. My wife hand-stitched some beautiful leather sleeves on to the bars, which will make switching handlebars/stems a pain.

Oh, and the bike in question is not a Varsity but a Schwinn Co-Ed. I can look up the exact year later, but I believe it's mid-60's off the top of my head:

IMG_20151025_131046067.jpg


The headset hasn't been the only strange thing I've found on this bike, but, still, I'd imagine someone must make a replacement headset :D!
 
Easiest move is to buy the new headset (I like Tioga Beartrap II) and, if the topnut is actually bored out for the 21.1 stem, then just swap the top nut for the original one, or pretty much ANY 1"x24tpi topnut. Theoretically, differences in stack height could be a potential issue (and that's the case, regardless, when you're switching headsets....whether or not you're swapping topnuts), but you can typically work something out with spacers or other creative headset wizardry. But, long story short, the topnut on a threaded headset need not match the rest of the headset.... the key factors are the fork's thread pitch, and the stem's diameter. (TBH, i can't recall for sure if the Beartrap II takes a 22.2 or a 21.1mm stem....I can check for you if you can wait til tomorrow before ordering...i'm jammed up at work, and i don't have my Schwinn with me.)

Another budget option: http://porkchopbmx.com/vp-h755-bmx-bicycle-headset-1-threaded-w-32-5mm-cups-chrome/
These are nice b/c you can actually use 2 headset wrenches to really dial-in your bearing adjustment. I think you'll prefer that to the knurled adjustable race on the oem headset of your Schwinn. The Beartrap has that feature, too, although it can be tricky getting the wrench positioned properly with the toothed washer.... again, not sure if it's got a 21.1 or 22.2 ID topnut... but i can check for you tomorrow, if you'd like...

HTH
Rob
 
:D haha, I had the brilliant thought of "duh, the locknut is the only part of the headset that has anything to do with the stem size!" a couple days after making this thread. So that was a huge relief; it still doesn't offer a GREAT deal of options (I really wanted to go sealed bearing), but it still at least gives me a selection.

I'm pretty sure at this point that I'm going with this Neco sealed bearing headset:

http://porkchopbmx.com/alloy-bmx-bicycle-headset-1-threaded-w-32-5mm-cups-silver/

No experience with their sealed bearing offerings, but I've liked the Neco headsets I've used so far.

I was planning on getting the VP one you linked to also; it's so cheap that it couldn't hurt to have. And also just because I'm not sure how one polished silver alloy piece is going to look on a vintage bike otherwise decked out in chrome accents :).
 
If you look at the pics, though, only one of the bearings is sealed.... the other is loose ball. What's the point of that? You do have one other option: Chris King 2Nut in the 1" "BMX" threaded flavor.... sealed bearings, top quality, only about $150usd.....

I can vouch for the VP unsealed jawn; perfect fit for Schwinns, save yourself a twin.... having only one of the 2 races sealed isn't going to save you much on maintenance, in my opinion....
 
Alright, I think I'm sold on the VP. Do you have that headset handy? I'd be curious what size headset wrench(es) it takes.
 
I'll get you all that info tomorrow...i use a double-sided headset wrench, and i can't recall which side i use =P.....my gut is telling me it's 30mm, but i'm starting to 2nd guess myself. I'll also test-fit a 22.2 stem in there, as well.... i'm at work right now; i'll get into the garage and check tomorrow. :thumbsup:
 
Update: the VP headset takes a 30mm wrench; I didn't get a chance to try cramming a 22.2mm stem in there (forgot my allen wrench; it's on a coworker's bike) but i'll confirm on the Summit in my garage tonight. My co-worker is running a 21.1mm stem, and it does look like there's a bit of a gap between the quill and the nut. I just wanna make sure it'll pass thru before i give you the green light.....
 
I have a brand-new VP BMX-spec headset on hand; just tried to pass a 22.2 stem thru, but no dice... looks like it's made for the 21.1. But, like we discussed, you can definitely run a different topnut....
 
Haven't had much of a chance to drop by and say thanks, but thank you for all the info. I have since ordered the VP headset and it should be here tonight. I'll let you know how it goes. I have since went through a few of my other bikes and have come to realize that practically all of my bikes use this headest combination. I did not realize it was so universal, which is especially surprising to me given the lack of replacement headset options out there. That being said, this VP headset looks to be about all I'll need.
 
Glad I could help; i'm sure you'll do fine with the new headset, even if you need to keep the old topnut. In my experience, anything newer than early-to-mid 60s is probably going to have bigger cups (>32.5mm) and a 21.1 stem, or little cups (30.0-30.2mm) and a 22.2 stem....it's the older bikes that run the oversized cups with the true 7/8" stems, usually.....but, as you've seen, there are always a lot of exceptions. :grin: (For instance, there are tons of bikes with the 30.0mm cups that come with forks that take 21.1mm stems...)
 
Yeah, my daily commuter for the last three years must fall into that second category; just by eyeballing it there's no way it takes 32.5 cups. I have never gotten around to knocking the cups out, but when I retire it for the winter season this year I think I'm finally going to replace the headset. In this case, the headset works perfectly fine, I'd just like to upgrade it to sealed bearings if possible.

I'd been a hold-out for the longest time on sealed bearings, because I actually really enjoy routine maintenance, but after finally trying a sealed cartridge bottom bracket I've been converted. But whereas in the case of the bottom bracket it's the performance that has me sold, when it comes to headsets ... :D I dunno, I just really hate overhauling headsets. But, then again, this VP headset promises to elimate the most annoying part of overhauling headsets, so who knows.
 
Bicycle808 said:
"...the most annoying part of overhauling headsets?" You mean, the knurled top adjustable race, or...?
Click to expand...

Yup, I feel like when I overhaul headsets I never quite get the adjustment right the first time. And often times the second time. And ... well, you get the point.

I think it's largely due to there being a lack of a good surface to hold the cone in place while cranking down the locknut. I'm optimistic that this VP headset will alleviate that problem.
 
Yeah, having 2 flats is far superior to trying to use some vise grips and good luck to set the bearings on a headset with the knurled top race. You'll love it. Set it right the first time, and you're good :grin:
 

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