ORBO Silver Mule - 2 speed all terrain cruiser type thing

[Mikeyfive]

Mission-creep update:

Sooooo, I've worked out that I can't have a chain tensioner and coaster brake on the same bike. Unfortunately with the vertical drop outs, this means I can either have a 2 speed with coaster and a saggy chain, or I'll have to ditch the 2 speed hub and go for a single speed freewheel instead. Breaks my heart, but it seems the least disappointing option is now the single-speed option.

On the downside this means I can't use my automatic 2 speed hub, which I have on another bike and absolutely love, it also means adding a rear brake with cables and extra lever etc. On the plus side though it'll mean a properly tensioned chain, it'll make the bike about a kg lighter and make for a nicer ride.

 

[Mikeyfive]

Although slightly disappointed that the original idea didn't work out, it was still worth the experiment. Quite happy with the plan b now too as it's like a new project in a way. Also looking forward to bombing around on a lightweight steel frame mutant retro mountain bike style bike.

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Mission-creep update:

Sooooo, I've worked out that I can't have a chain tensioner and coaster brake on the same bike. Unfortunately with the vertical drop outs, this means I can either have a 2 speed with coaster and a saggy chain, or I'll have to ditch the 2 speed hub and go for a single speed freewheel instead. Breaks my heart, but it seems the least disappointing option is now the single-speed option.

On the downside this means I can't use my automatic 2 speed hub, which I have on another bike and absolutely love, it also means adding a rear brake with cables and extra lever etc. On the plus side though it'll mean a properly tensioned chain, it'll make the bike about a kg lighter and make for a nicer ride.

You might be surprised what can be achieved with swapping out sprockets and chainwheels combined with a half link, sometimes you can fluke a combination that is just the right length. You wont have any adjustment for stretch though...

Luke.

 

[GuitarlCarl]

Mission-creep update:

Sooooo, I've worked out that I can't have a chain tensioner and coaster brake on the same bike. Unfortunately with the vertical drop outs, this means I can either have a 2 speed with coaster and a saggy chain, or I'll have to ditch the 2 speed hub and go for a single speed freewheel instead. Breaks my heart, but it seems the least disappointing option is now the single-speed option.

On the downside this means I can't use my automatic 2 speed hub, which I have on another bike and absolutely love, it also means adding a rear brake with cables and extra lever etc. On the plus side though it'll mean a properly tensioned chain, it'll make the bike about a kg lighter and make for a nicer ride.

I did it. But you can't have a lot of slack, and you can't have a lot of spring in the tensioner.
see posts #112 (#138 for a picture)
http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/the-difference-engine.79471/page-6
I've put a ton of miles on this bike since 2013. The trick is to have almost no slack in the chain and the tensioner is pulled tight to take up the last bit. That said, I'm also running a 27 inch skinny tire not a MTB tire. There is a weight difference, but don't give up so easy... you might be able to disable the coaster and run a rim brake.

Carl.

 

[Mikeyfive]

I did it. But you can't have a lot of slack, and you can't have a lot of spring in the tensioner.
see posts #112 (#138 for a picture)


http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/the-difference-engine.79471/page-6
I've put a ton of miles on this bike since 2013. The trick is to have almost no slack in the chain and the tensioner is pulled tight to take up the last bit. That said, I'm also running a 27 inch skinny tire not a MTB tire. There is a weight difference, but don't give up so easy... you might be able to disable the coaster and run a rim brake.

Carl.

I think I might actually look in to disabling the coaster. If that can be done simply it sounds like the best solution with the rim brake

 

[Mikeyfive]

You might be surprised what can be achieved with swapping out sprockets and chainwheels combined with a half link, sometimes you can fluke a combination that is just the right length. You wont have any adjustment for stretch though...

Luke.

Good point and although chain stretch could be the issue, I probably won't be doing huge mileage on this thing, so could take a while before there's any noticeable stretch. Cheers

 

[Wildcat]

Mission-creep update:

Sooooo, I've worked out that I can't have a chain tensioner and coaster brake on the same bike. Unfortunately with the vertical drop outs, this means I can either have a 2 speed with coaster and a saggy chain, or I'll have to ditch the 2 speed hub and go for a single speed freewheel instead. Breaks my heart, but it seems the least disappointing option is now the single-speed option.

On the downside this means I can't use my automatic 2 speed hub, which I have on another bike and absolutely love, it also means adding a rear brake with cables and extra lever etc. On the plus side though it'll mean a properly tensioned chain, it'll make the bike about a kg lighter and make for a nicer ride.

I tried to make my walmart Beast a 3 speed using an old crankset from another cheap bike, but with coaster it would never work. You could make a set of bolt on dropouts that would have horizontal slots like you need. Some 3/16ths plate and a hacksaw and a drill is what I used here, but you could probably make something smaller and less conspicuious:

This is also a SRAM Auto w coaster, it's on Mini-Klunk now (on the completed ORBO page) On your frame, a 3/8ths nut and bolt with 2 smaller ones where the fenders attach to your dropouts (right side has an extra hole where the derailler would go) would hold a small plate that would let you bolt on the coaster hub to a horizontal slot.

 

[Mikeyfive]

After putting the project on ice due to going over budget, I've managed to sell off a few of the parts from the failed cruiser idea including the 2 speed wheel, which to my surprise I managed to sell within a day of advertising for pretty much what I paid for it. This was the most expensive part of the bike, so recouping that money felt good as it meant I could move forward and buy some new necessary parts guilt-free.



I've trimmed the old alloy bars that came with the frame (partly for storage reasons) and now the bike is running a freehub with single sprocket and chain tensioner. All I need to do now is give the frame a proper clean, add the brake cables and the saddle and it's ready for the road.

 

[Mikeyfive]

Just the brake cables to go now

 

[LukeTheJoker]

That side shot looks nice!

Luke.

 

[Chief]

Cool stance--simple, clean with some pop.

 

[Mikeyfive]

All finished finally! Can't remember if it still fits the brief, but I think I've done the Reynolds frame a lot more justice than it's crazy chopper incarnation of a month or so ago.



Overall I'm really happy with how's it looks, and how all the parts have come together. It's also a heck of a lot lighter than it looks.



As for the ride quality, I got the gear ratio perfect for the local terrain, I can punch up the short hills and cruise at about 13mph on the flat. I can also accelerate nicely with the traffic and it sails over bumps and potholes. It's also silent apart from the hum of the tyres on the road.



The narrow bars made it a bit squirrelly to manoeuvre at first, but after a couple of rides it just feels normal now. There isn't much I'd change either apart from an upgrade to cantilever brakes and some better grips at some point in the future.

 

[metalchewy]

I think it looks amazing as well. Awesome job!!

Building... riding...

 

[Roadie64]

What a clean looking ride! Nice build!

 

[OddJob]

Take 'er on home! Well done!

 

[LukeTheJoker]

Really nice!

Luke.