Flying Zombie
~:Undead Forever:~
Today's project.
I wanted to rebuild these saddle springs since I first saw this bike, and I think a little bit of me bought it so I could sleep at night knowing it was fixed.. as I think all of us do in one way or another with the bikes that catch us.
I bought a few things for this bike well before it came home, including the Cone and Barrel springs I was prepared to swap out (under an assumption the saddle pan was solid enough to work with, I got lucky) and as it turned out only the Cone springs were busted and a previous owner essentially twisted into the Barrels to keep them in place with..Some? Spring left to use or they broke and the owner kept riding it and they shifted down and got into the Barrels mid extension. Anyway, I got to keep the original Barrels, had to bend the old cones out of the Barrels coil to get off and swap out.
Honestly I'm surprised as tightly as the Barrel was clinched down on the Cone spring it didnt warp it any.
This was the first prewar saddle I've worked on surprisingly, but I've never needed to before on prior ones I've had. I learned something.
Some Barrel springs attach at the bottom on the rod by a nut like an axle which is how I thought they all were, and some rods have these deep, wide threads cut into the ends so the Barrels can literally screw right onto the rod without hardware on the bottom. I'm sure theres probably a style that has a bend or crook at the bottom of the post for them to lean down on in some way too, but the post for the Barrels on this saddle are threaded for the Barrels to be screwed directly on which I thought was cool.
I had backup Barrels too, shown in the last picture that I didnt use both because I didnt need to and upon discovery of the threaded Post couldnt even if I wanted to without slight modification on the small attachment coil on the bottom of the Barrels.
Lastly, I swapped the brace bar in the center keeping the springs aligned as it was warped out pretty bad.
1938 Western Flyer DBR
Erin/FZ
I wanted to rebuild these saddle springs since I first saw this bike, and I think a little bit of me bought it so I could sleep at night knowing it was fixed.. as I think all of us do in one way or another with the bikes that catch us.
I bought a few things for this bike well before it came home, including the Cone and Barrel springs I was prepared to swap out (under an assumption the saddle pan was solid enough to work with, I got lucky) and as it turned out only the Cone springs were busted and a previous owner essentially twisted into the Barrels to keep them in place with..Some? Spring left to use or they broke and the owner kept riding it and they shifted down and got into the Barrels mid extension. Anyway, I got to keep the original Barrels, had to bend the old cones out of the Barrels coil to get off and swap out.
Honestly I'm surprised as tightly as the Barrel was clinched down on the Cone spring it didnt warp it any.
This was the first prewar saddle I've worked on surprisingly, but I've never needed to before on prior ones I've had. I learned something.
Some Barrel springs attach at the bottom on the rod by a nut like an axle which is how I thought they all were, and some rods have these deep, wide threads cut into the ends so the Barrels can literally screw right onto the rod without hardware on the bottom. I'm sure theres probably a style that has a bend or crook at the bottom of the post for them to lean down on in some way too, but the post for the Barrels on this saddle are threaded for the Barrels to be screwed directly on which I thought was cool.
I had backup Barrels too, shown in the last picture that I didnt use both because I didnt need to and upon discovery of the threaded Post couldnt even if I wanted to without slight modification on the small attachment coil on the bottom of the Barrels.
Lastly, I swapped the brace bar in the center keeping the springs aligned as it was warped out pretty bad.
1938 Western Flyer DBR
Erin/FZ
