The existing struts can be cut and made into shorter struts. The tubing isn't that thick, just cut, flatten one end and drill a hole. Then round the edges. I made a set using copper tubing before, then painted them red.
Riff Ratt
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Got a second springer fork center tube? There's your swing arm pivots. Cut the two fork tubes to length, sleeve them with a bit of pipe, zip zip with a weld and there ya go, rolling down the lane.
Love the main lick in Riff Raff. I saw them a few years ago in Chicago. They were great. 3 hours non stop. You knew every song they did and they had every piece of stage props they've used through the years, from the giant Angus statue with glowing eyes to the two story inflatable Whole Lotta Rosy, cannons , locomotive, a huge bell Brian Johnson was swinging on. You could tell they were having fun too. Underrated for years, Malcolm is one of the best rhythm guitarists of all time.
Carl.
Love the main lick in Riff Raff. I saw them a few years ago in Chicago. They were great. 3 hours non stop. You knew every song they did and they had every piece of stage props they've used through the years, from the giant Angus statue with glowing eyes to the two story inflatable Whole Lotta Rosy, cannons , locomotive, a huge bell Brian Johnson was swinging on. You could tell they were having fun too. Underrated for years, Malcolm is one of the best rhythm guitarists of all time.
Carl.
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You'll have to draw a pic of the fork setup, I can't figure it out.
I worked at Pizza Hut and we had to take turns going to all the concerts, so I missed out on seeing the original lineup in 1977. I saw them a few times later, and made sure I didn't miss them. The San Fran city bus was overloaded as we went toward the concert and the safety thing kicked in and dropped the bus down on it's front wheels and wouldn't move. "Sorry ain't nuthin' can be done for 24 hours!" was what the driver told us. We would never make it in time so I took charge. I had all the men get off the bus and everyone else squeeze toward the back of the bus. Then about 20 of us lifted up on the front of the bus. It worked! The air brakes hissed and the front came back up. We hopped back in and made it on time. 1982. True story. Saw them again in 88, always a flawless show.
I worked at Pizza Hut and we had to take turns going to all the concerts, so I missed out on seeing the original lineup in 1977. I saw them a few times later, and made sure I didn't miss them. The San Fran city bus was overloaded as we went toward the concert and the safety thing kicked in and dropped the bus down on it's front wheels and wouldn't move. "Sorry ain't nuthin' can be done for 24 hours!" was what the driver told us. We would never make it in time so I took charge. I had all the men get off the bus and everyone else squeeze toward the back of the bus. Then about 20 of us lifted up on the front of the bus. It worked! The air brakes hissed and the front came back up. We hopped back in and made it on time. 1982. True story. Saw them again in 88, always a flawless show.
@josh_from_ga used a fork for chainstays on his LegDay build a while back, it came out nice.
http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/leg-day-resurrected.101316/
The original straight struts for that springer looked a little thin at 1/2" when sized up to the shocks. I figured I would get some 5/8ths tubing and make them up. Then I remember the set I made from cantilevers from a donor frame. They are 5/8" and look more of a match to the shocks. They have a curve in them but that may work well with the setup. I will trim them to size. I may wind up getting some tubing the same size as the fork legs, 3/4" for the shocks to look like a good fit. For the rear I salvaged a couple pieces of square stock from house builders, but they are 1", same size as the fork tube. I need the next size larger to slide over the tube and get tacked on.
I checked out the new larger cranks and found the new chainwheel warped. It's steel so it was easy to gently get back straight using the frame as a guide and a screwdriver through the chain ring.
I had been wondering how to get an even bend on the cantilevers after the seat tube when they go upward. I think I won't have to bend them at all if I cut them loose from the frame (4 brazes) and invert them both together, with the fender bracket still in place. Then have them brazed or welded back on the frame. That will also give a big area for a tank or insert of some kind. A big lightning bolt?
If that doesn't work, at least I can have a better chance of getting a nice even curve when they are separated from the frame. I can also change the spot where they line up on the downtube for more or less height in the rear. I have to lay it all out to get a good idea of where everything should be.
I had been wondering how to get an even bend on the cantilevers after the seat tube when they go upward. I think I won't have to bend them at all if I cut them loose from the frame (4 brazes) and invert them both together, with the fender bracket still in place. Then have them brazed or welded back on the frame. That will also give a big area for a tank or insert of some kind. A big lightning bolt?
If that doesn't work, at least I can have a better chance of getting a nice even curve when they are separated from the frame. I can also change the spot where they line up on the downtube for more or less height in the rear. I have to lay it all out to get a good idea of where everything should be.
Awesome!
Replying to a earlier post from this thread: If you want more speeds, relatively cheap you can build a "retro direct" setup. Checkout youtube or the originel French pages.
Good luck!
Replying to a earlier post from this thread: If you want more speeds, relatively cheap you can build a "retro direct" setup. Checkout youtube or the originel French pages.
Good luck!
I had given that some thought, but I need the brake on the back wheel. I might do some kind of crude derailleur to have 2 speeds.
I needed to break in the new shop before it became a flower garden. The cantilevers came off fairly easily, it's good the tubing is thick. I laid it out to have a quick look before returning to air conditioning. I was drenched after an hour working.
This is just the first look, the actual angle will be more engineered. I need to bolt everything together to get a good idea.
This is just the first look, the actual angle will be more engineered. I need to bolt everything together to get a good idea.
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I was looking at how you’re planning the pivot point of the rear suspension. I’m wondering if you’ll be able to get that close enough to the crank axis so that the distance between the crank axis and rear wheel axis doesn’t change (or changes only slightly) as the suspension moves. You’ll want that distance to remain the same to keep the chain tension consistent. Wonder if making the bottom bracket part of the rear swing arm might be a better option? Cut it off, flip and modify as you’re thinking, and fabricate a new connection/pivot that connects the down and seat tubes. Hopefully I described that so it makes sense.
When I saw the canti section that you removed,
This is the first thing that came to mind.
This is the first thing that came to mind.
My plan is to have a chain tensioner so I can go between chainwheels 40 and 44 and not worry about the chain binding from where the pivot will be. Right now the plan is to cut off the top few inches of fork tube and sleeve the part left with square tubing. Then flatten the two stays left on the frame and drilling a 3/8ths hole through them for a pivot bolt. Then the shocks will bolt up to brackets attached to the seat stays. All this is subject to change as I run into things that don't work.
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Ahhhh, yup that would do the trick!
I laid it out again to get a better look and see I will need the tensioner for the chain line clearance also. It would touch the bottom of the chain stay (old fork) without it. The extensions on the forks and dropouts will be redone but at about the same parameters as they look just about right. I'll be able to adjust them for fine tuning and clearance. If I need an extra inch for the pedal to ground clearance I can raise the front or rear. Where I have placed the cantilevers is probably where they will get tacked on. I can leave the old fender bracket on for support. Then when the bracket for the shocks is done the ends will get chopped.
I really like the flipped tubes. Kinda makes them Anti-Cantis
Do you think the cantilever's will be enough to support the shocks? Or did you have something else in mind
We are certainly getting some creatively sprung builds this go round! 
I thought about that and will see what happens when I sit on it. The fender bridge may give it some extra stability. The cantilevers are fairly thick tubing for a bike frame, about 3mm.
If it isn't solid enough to work the suspension, I'll add some bracing, maybe as a rear rack somehow. I might use the leftover tubing (8 inch pieces) from the chain stays or the ends from these cantilevers. I'd like to keep it as minimal as possible, so all behind the seat is the tire like a bobber.
I still have about a week or so until I can expend some bike funds, so I'm still going over some ideas. I'd like to do a tank insert using brass or copper sheeting. I thought of doing a lightning bolt but then I thought a facsimile of Malcolm Young's famous Gretsch with the missing pickups would work better. I'd use two cutouts, one for each side that would mate together as an insert after stamping in the features. I could shape it to fill in the area instead of an exact guitar body shape. I'm hoping to find some metal that isn't shiny, the more tarnish the better.
I braved the heat and went out and got a little work done. I was going to use the vise and flatten the ends but the vise may have broken, so I used it as an anvil and gently hammered the ends flat.
That's where the pivot bolt will go through, 3/8ths probably. If it needs some tweaking, the guys at the fab shop can understand what I'm doing. A press would make this so much easier.
The rear fork will get a piece of square stock welded on and then will fit flush with the frame, with an added washer or two. There shouldn't be any left or right play in the swing arm. I'm going to wait to see where the hole should be drilled when I have the swingarm finished and lined up. I think I'll only have one chance at getting it right.
The washers or spacers will give me a little left and right adjustment for the chain line also.
That's where the pivot bolt will go through, 3/8ths probably. If it needs some tweaking, the guys at the fab shop can understand what I'm doing. A press would make this so much easier.
The rear fork will get a piece of square stock welded on and then will fit flush with the frame, with an added washer or two. There shouldn't be any left or right play in the swing arm. I'm going to wait to see where the hole should be drilled when I have the swingarm finished and lined up. I think I'll only have one chance at getting it right.
The washers or spacers will give me a little left and right adjustment for the chain line also.
