Rust remover show down!

Discussion in 'HOW TO' started by LukeTheJoker, Jul 17, 2018.

  1. LukeTheJoker

    LukeTheJoker Moderator

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    Just wanted to share this video by Project Farm on YouTube.
    Very cool channel that tests a lot of products, and very thoroughly, including oil additives and the like, in fact one of only 2 channels that I support on Patreon every month.

    This video in particular would be very helpful with rust removal on bike parts, only thing I wish he had tried as well is Molasses, my Uncle swears by it, but I have suggested it to him for a future video, so it may turn up somewhere.

    Anyway, enjoy:

     
  2. RustySprockets

    RustySprockets

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    Krud Kutter is a 25% solution of phosphoric acid as its active ingredient. I'd like to see a head-to-head match between it and another phosphoric acid product called Sterosol Milkstone Remover.

    Project Farm's only objection to Krud Kutter is the price per ounce. Sterosol is DOUBLE the concentration, in a container 16X the size. At $13 a gallon, each ounce would set the buyer back a dime--a nickle, if diluted with a matching jug of distilled water.

    I've used vinegar often myself, but it requires more than simple soaking. One must agitate the parts, or at least give an occasional scrub with a wire brush as the work progresses.

    Here's links to the data sheets for both products:

    http://www.mcoe.us/view/1710.pdf

    https://www.stearnspkg.com/images/s...REMOVER-AND-ACID-RINSE-DAIRYLAND-AM10-SDS.pdf
     
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  3. LukeTheJoker

    LukeTheJoker Moderator

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    I will pass that information along to him, very cool!
     
  4. horsefarmer

    horsefarmer

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    Used muriatic acid to clean up motorcycle gas tanks that were rusty inside. I use vinegar on some rusty stuff now as I keep it around to clean my coffeemaker. Couple of years ago I dissolved a rusty old bike chain cause I forgot about it and left it for about a month! Over 10 years ago I was given some expired coke syrup and I applied to a rusty truck body let it turn black, then wash and painted it. Never rusted thru and I still have the truck. I would like to know how the different methods affect thread fit and strength of fasteners though...
     
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  5. us56456712

    us56456712

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    I use to use Ph Down powder for aquariums. It was phosphoric acid and cheap and cheap to ship as it was a light weight powder. Worked the best and was cheap. It's no longer available. Animal feed molasses and cheap generic on sale Coke work but work so slow that a big pad of floating stinky mold rot formes at the top. It's too expensive for a frame dip. My latest experiment involved a half cup of Iron Out powder rust stain remover in four gallons of water and a quarter cup of Spick and Span household cleaner to remove the soaked in blaster. I tried it for the first time last weekend. Very rusty parts scrub right up in 48 hours with this stuff. It's $4.00 on Menards web site for 28 ounces of powder. Watch your hands as it turns them into prunes if you get them wet with the stuff. I have only tried it on a very rusty gooseneck, kick stand, crank and bars. I'm curious to see what others find using this product. Looks like it might be the cheapest alternative and works faster than anything else I have tried. I used a hand wire brush at 6 hours, 40 hours and 48 hours. I then washed, dried and used 2 coats of Penetrol drying oil. I have another posting under Iron Out on Bike Talk on these forums where I posted my experiment. I could find no info on the net for using this product for anything other than removing rust stains.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2018
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  6. Indyjps

    Indyjps

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    Oxalic acid, wood bleach is still my favorite. Best balance of consistency, cost, timeliness. Least harmful to chrome, paint and decals. $8 tub and I used it for 2 years on over 20 bikes, still have a little left.
    Tried vinegar, Molasses, evaporust, reverse electolysis, coke and aluminum foil.
    Citric acid is supposed to be similar results as oxalic acid, but I have not tried it to compare.

    I follow with baking soda and water, then soap and water, both are basic PH and neutralize acid. Wax with your favorite car wax, if youre preserving heavy patina with little paint left, Johnsons paste wax is a good heavy wax. "Drying oil" coats can also be used. Ive used danish furniture oil, just because it was on the shelf.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2018
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  7. us56456712

    us56456712

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    I tried oxalic acid but it leaves a green residue that won't come off, even with wire brushing. Others have had the problem too. I don't know why some get this but I won't chance it again, ruined my stuff. I used pure oxalic acid powder but perhaps these is something in Lake Superior water that has been city treated to cause this reaction. Have you had any experience with this problem or know what it is?
     
  8. us56456712

    us56456712

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    I'm trying Iron Out again. Continuing the experiment. I have emerged a 1940s seat for 3 days. It looks to me that Iron Out lifts the rust. The water bath gets full of disolved rust, but the top of the water is full of floating rust chunks. You have to wire brush it as it doesn't disolve rust as well as acid, but almost as well. I'm going to try a follow up with acid some day. 1546921802965-1300154586.jpg
     
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  9. us56456712

    us56456712

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    I got a twofer, removed the paint and rust.
    1546968099402-345968780.jpg
    .
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2019
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  10. us56456712

    us56456712

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    It works best on parts that aren't painted. Wire brushing leaves a smeary mess. Next I'll wash it. 1546971373009-841457013.jpg 1546971399607-1660031238.jpg
     

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  11. us56456712

    us56456712

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    I continued the Rust Out experiment. Result it's not as good as any acid. After cleaning I'm going to try to soak the seat parts in white vinegar to see what the result I get. I have a steel chainwheel and steel gooseneck in the Rust Out now to see if it works as well as on my earlier bars
    I have bought gallons of horse grade molasses at farm stores and used that. It's slow and you get a huge floating pancake of mold on top. It is faster than cola.
     
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  12. SSG

    SSG

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    I wonder if your green residue is due to copper. Maybe from copper leeching out from under porous chrome plating?
     
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