Not only that tire but the width of the rear hub! I'm going to try putting a bend into the seat support / sissy bar to narrow it up. Otherwise the seat might end up so wide the bike will topple over because of the weight.That big ol' rear tire reminds of the Surly Bicycle frame sticker they came out with right after they introduced the first production fat bike:
"Does This Tire Make My ... Look Fat?"
You're going to need one big 'naner to compliment that tire!
Tick Tock, Tick Tock... I know . Might be another one that's not going to make it across the finish line in time. Plan to keep trying though.I'm looking at it thinking "Something 's missing..."
So I go back to the beginning and yep, seat stays.
Come on bro. Tick Tock (you got this )
It's when I think I know something that I get into troubleTypically, the disc brake caliper is mounted behind the seat stay / or fork leg so that when the braking action ensues, the forward thrust of the pad grabbing the rotor is stopped by the piece of metal stay / fork ahead of it. **I'm just thinking out loud here, I know you know this**
Could you weld an extension on the 'top back' (1 o'clock - 2 o'clock position) of the drop out to mount your brake caliper onto?
I might not be following your predicament here, but even my fat bike has the same mounting locale as my Desert Sky klunker bolt and clamp on caliper mount and my mtb factory caliper mount.
View attachment 111311 View attachment 111310
I know, that's the real attraction for me to that mount. It would clean the routing up real nice.I see nothing wrong with the 'Flipped and Posts Inboard' placement other than access to the mounting bolts might be an issue if they are on the backside. (Not sure if I'm seeing how it mounts correctly).
The position looks good and offers an opportunity to route the cable inside the frame!
I have no idea why I thought they *needed* to be one piece. The flexibility to stick as many pieces together to get what you want is what makes having a welder fun!Seat stays / cantilevers only two pieced what a novel idea.
I think mine are like five or six pieces each after all the modifications lol.
I'm going hydraulic. If everything is sealed up the caliper shouldn't care if its upside down or not? Need to research that.As far as your brake... It's mechanical not hydraulic, correct? I don't know if a hydro caliper can operate "upside down" but a mechanical one shouldn't have any problems as long as you have the clearance for the bolts, as Ren Man noted.
Thanks. *If* I get close it will be a bare metal finish finish for sure.Good luck and skip paint to the finish line (paint it later brother)
Nope, won't be "shredding the gnar"! Looks like it will be a wheelie machine though.On a bike that would be ridden hard, I might be concernedabout the forces applied to the welds if brake force pulled away from the stay rather than pushing towards. However, I doubt this one will be "shredding the gnar", so it should hold up.
You don't need to - Hydraulics work in any position you mount them - it's a sealed unit, so the positioning doesn't matter. In most bikes the rear one is almost horizontal, sometimes upside down (worked on a few bikes with that), while on the fork it's almost vertical, or sometimes leaning towards laying upside down (like in my 14 RRB Build-Off).I'm going hydraulic. If everything is sealed up the caliper shouldn't care if its upside down or not? Need to research that.
The bigger & stiffer the disc the better. A friend of mine is running 203mm on his e-bike with 4 piston Magura caliper designed for downhill riding, and that thing has so much stopping power that it bends the fork (But actually it stops his 89lbs bike with him weithing something like 220lbs, from going 32mph in a jiffy). If You're planning on running in speeds less than 19mph a 180 on the front & 160 on the rear might do the trick.A 160 rotor is more common for rear brakes. Might give you more flexibility. There are 180's available too, might compliment that big wheel / tire combo better.