Skip tooth: is it worth it?

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So I was interested in buying a set of balloon tire wheels from 1946 off a guy on craigslist. They have a coaster brake hub with a skip tooth cog. He also said he would sell me a skip tooth chain ring for $10. Fine, he tells me you need a special chain for it and you can usually get them on ebay. So, I go look it up $75.00-$150.00!! Why in the world to old used chains go for so much. Is that really what they are worth or are these people crazy? Buying this wheel set seemed worth it until I saw that. The odd part is that all bike chains stretch out unless skip tooth are some kind of magical material that doesn't wear. Anyway that is my gripe and if anyone knows where I could get one for a decent price then let me know.

-Aron C.
 
I'd buy the wheel-set and crank and sell them on ebay and make a few bucks, but if you really want a skip-tooth chain someone here probably has one they'd sell cheaper ask around. I have seen on C-list whole bikes WITH skip-tooth chains go for $100, so $150 for just the chain is ridiculous.

Here's a glimpse into the real world
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28119
 
outskirtscustoms said:
I'd buy the wheel-set and crank and sell them on ebay and make a few bucks, but if you really want a skip-tooth chain someone here probably has one they'd sell cheaper ask around. I have seen on C-list whole bikes WITH skip-tooth chains go for $100, so $150 for just the chain is ridiculous.

Here's a glimpse into the real world
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28119
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Skip-tooth chain is functionally obsolete and while it might still be available new for some other use, it hasn't been made specifically for bicycles for a few decades now. If you want some in good condition you're probably going to pay a premium for it, no matter where you find it. If you are not restoring a vintage bike to like-new, there's really no advantage in it however.

If you want a retro-chain look, another thing you can do I have mentioned elsewhere is you can run 1" pitch roller chain on regular (non-skip-tooth) cogs and sprockets.
~
 
DougC said:
Skip-tooth chain is functionally obsolete and while it might still be available new for some other use, it hasn't been made specifically for bicycles for a few decades now. If you want some in good condition you're probably going to pay a premium for it, no matter where you find it. If you are not restoring a vintage bike to like-new, there's really no advantage in it however.

If you want a retro-chain look, another thing you can do I have mentioned elsewhere is you can run 1" pitch roller chain on regular (non-skip-tooth) cogs and sprockets.
~

Also you can use normal bike chain and just grind every other tooth off the crank and sprocket, I did this to my Bootlegger bike gives the look I was going for and didn't cost squat but 15 minutes with the old bench grinder.
 
yeah I'm just trying to decide if it's worth trying to re-sell these things. I don't really care that they are skip tooth I just wanted the wheels because they are wide 26" wheels with a coaster brake. Also it's not a bad deal, although it's starting to sound like it.
 
Oak Tree said:
Does anyone know why the industry went away from skip tooth? Is the regular, or speed chain, better in some way?

Back in the day skip-tooth chains were made with solid links, the tooling did not exist to make the hollow inside links yet, so they were made with plates that connected solid links and needed the skipped tooth on the sprockets for the solid link to ride in, later they made the skip-tooth chains with hollow links but with different length links so it would be compatible with the bikes that were already being made, and already owned by the kids of the world, Then came the every tooth chains that most of us use now, then came the Chinese Bell chains that are too short and made from inferior metals. :mrgreen: :roll: :mrgreen:
 
My Rollfast came with a skip-tooth. The rims were REAL rusty, the spokes were breaking frequently, the hub slipped while riding, and the axle sat all the way back in the dropout. Sounds like a lot of fun, heh? I picked up a Murray "girly-bike" for $5.00. I put the wheels, chain, crank, and chainring, and the handlebars (modified with 3 inches cut off each end) on my Rollfast and haven't looked back!
 
Oak Tree said:
Does anyone know why the industry went away from skip tooth? Is the regular, or speed chain, better in some way?
Here ya go








Re: SKIPTOOTH QUESTION

Postby rms37 on Thu Jan 01, 2009 12:56 am
Here are some thoughts on the origin of 1” pitch chain, why it was so prevalent on American bicycles in the pre-war and early post war period and the reasons that it was eventually replaced by ½” pitch chain.

The Ordinary (late 1870’s-1890) developed out of optimizing the size of the driven wheel for a 1:1 rotational relationship with the pedal cranks.

During the same time period, the earliest bicycles designed to increase this ratio to permit the use of smaller wheels did so though the use of gears either enmeshed or connected by chain.

The earliest chains were often proprietary and differed greatly in construction and dimension. Early chains were often heavier than modern chain because the metallurgy and designs of the day required the use of more material to achieve satisfactory strength.

The earliest standardized bicycle chain was 1” pitch block chain which became the norm by the mid 1890’s.

A block chain is comprised of metal blocks with a hole drilled through each end for a pin. The blocks are linked by two side plates pivoting off the same pins. Sprockets are cut so that the teeth will align with the cavities created between the blocks and link plates. The skip in skip tooth sprockets is equal to the size of the blocks.

The next major advancement in chain was the inclusion of a friction reducing rollers located around the connecting pin. The rollers allowed the chain to roll over the sprockets during engagement rather than be drug over them. Because the standard design of sprockets for 1” pitch block chain included a gap between the teeth, the earliest roller chain was designed to fit the existing 1” pitch sprockets. This is the reason that 1” pitch chain is constructed with a long link to mesh with the sprocket tooth and a short link sized to replace the block.

It was a short design leap to redesign the chain with equal ½’ pitch links and tool new sprockets to use with the chain. Metallurgy had also improved to allow for thinner sprockets by this time and the new improved ½” pitch design basically superseded 1” pitch in most application by the early teens.....except in America. While many American adult bicycles began to use ½” pitch chain in the teens, the bicycle in America was increasingly becoming a child’s transportation device and the 1” pitch sprockets were less expensive to manufacture (note that most 1” pitch sprockets are a simple flat cut stamping whereas most older ½” sprockets have more forming to maintain lateral strength and often have cut rather than stamped teeth) and stronger (I have never seen a bent 1” pitch balloon sprocket.)

By the thirties the 1” pitch sprocket had become the American standard to the point that there was little reason to change it.

It is probably due to a small growth in the Adult bicycle market in the mid to late thirties that some manufacturers started to offer ½” inch pitch chain and sprockets on their adult models and a few high end balloon bicycles.

After WW2 many American manufacturers were almost starting from scratch to tool up for the anticipated post-war boom. Most manufacturers reentering the bicycle market had made money and upgraded their factories and equipment during the war so retooling was necessary and easier than it would have been during regular production. At this point the shift to ½” pitch chain was probably partially in answer to competition from “higher performance” imports and also due to the fact that American manufacturers found that one avenue to increasing profit was by purchasing components abroad. (We know where this practice led.)


rms37
 
Question: I have a c. '46 Westfield Lightweight (skinny-tired Columbia) aftermarket equipped with the New Departure Tripl-Speed rear sprocket which gives me 3 speeds plus ND coaster brake. Great bike. I've had it since new but now need a chain. Yes, it's skip-tooth 1" pitch. After all, 13K+ miles have taken their toll! Oh, and I didn't ride it for about 30 years.
My question: Can I run today's 12" pitch chain on my sprockets?
 
Month old thread, but I'll add my two cents. Skiptooth chain was one of many options before all bike builders standardized. The last skiptooth rolled out of the factory in 1953, so the prices go up as the years go by. Also, if you want to build skiptooth, you generally have to buy two chains for every one you need, as about half of them are stretched beyond usability.

Having said all that, I love it, and even converted my modern stretched cruiser to skiptooth, just to have something different that most people won't notice. All said and done it cost almost $200, custom chainring, and three chains to get a good clean chain and a half that I needed. But I enjoy it on there. Would I do it again? Maybe not, as basically zero people have ever noticed. haha
IMG_1329.JPG
 

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