I agree, and even when they are free, they barely work due to the angle.I think that the problem might lie in the angle that that fork is working. When you add weight, the fork just jams itself instead of moving.
If you look where the brace is welded, the tube is larger for the plastic guides to fit, there is a gap between the tubes. But that is good information to know.Sometimes when welding you get some swelling on the inside learned that on a seat tube couldn't get the seat bar in. Could be what you have going on with the suspension.
I'll try to gets some pics to explain what I did, it's very simple.Modifying a grip shifter? Wow. I'm kind of confused about which part is now JB welded instead of being the manufactured bond? Maybe you can show us along the way how everything fits together.
My experience with Grip Shift (since 1988) is that it has to be very specific in it's configuration, or it doesn't work properly. If you've figured out a bypass to that, I'm really impressed!
I wish I had seen that first, it looks much easier than what i have planned as far as a handle.It's doable. Here's how others have found success:
Just that the shifter itself is pretty finicky. Has to be mated just right for the cable pull and shifter indexing to work just right.I'll try to gets some pics to explain what I did, it's very simple.
Could you explain what doesn't work properly, I don't know anything about these shifters. I do know that shifter was mated to the back wheel on the bike, so it made sense to me to use it.