BO15 WAHA-SEDB-3 (TRIKE-TOR...2nd Place)

[MazdaFlyer]

Did a little experimenting with the steering knuckles today. I’m using a 2x4 cross member to experiment with wheel track. The knuckles have some positive camber. Toe will be adjustable.
I mounted the brackets with 5/16” Grade 8 bolts. The wood beam will allow me find an acceptable track width as it can be shortened easily. I used 3/8 Heim connectors for tie rod ends and cut and threaded 3/8 rod with 3/8-24 NF ends.

This steering stuff is in “freestyle” mode now. I need to think though connecting it to frame and framework. I have a thought on the steering connection. When I get the front end worked out width wise I’ll use a couple of angles to replace the 2x. Trial and Error at best.
The wheel track with the 2x should be about 8” wider than the current 24” axle setup.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

Now you're talking!
Stay on it!!!

 

[MattiThundrrr]

This just got "Next Level".

 

[OddJob]

You had me at 'folding ruler'. Talk about adding some old skool kool to the engineering process.
Now that's RaT-isfying indeed!

 

[MazdaFlyer]

Waiting on parts...so I wiped down the hood and frame with WD-40, heavy duty ScotchBite pads and rags. A little white residue on David Bradley logo and actually some red residue. The frame has some faded red left.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

Test fitting steering cross member and knuckles with 24” wheels. A set of 20” being shipped.
If I were to use the 20” wheels it should have a “Dago” effect. In my high school years it seemed to be a thing to lower the front end of your car or jack up the rear. My ‘53 Ford was so inclined and was in primer, never made it to paint. Early rat rod.

Going to add a couple of gusset braces.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

Put the hood back on to check for appearance and clearances...a couple of issues. The turning radius would be better but with the knuckles mounted to the back of a he 2x is here is an interference problem and it would require a steering stop point both left and right. The stance pretty good, maybe a couple of inches off both sides would help. Trial and Error...Onward.

Now to figure out the steering connection.

 

[handyandy1100]

Could you adapt the original axle mount on the fork to use the axle pivot bolt to connect the tie rods to the fork?

Looking at the front view of the hood, you could add a big crank coming out of that center hole. Doesn't need to connect to anything, just make people wonder what the crank was for.

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[Psychographic]

Would using two parallel bars, one to each top bolt of the spindle mounts and one to the lowers allow the bike to lean in the turns?

It might limit your steering, and the weight of the hood might make it difficult to balance. Just an idea.

A "I" shaped bracket with the top (horizontal)part of the "I" attaching to the fork ends. The bottom of the "I" (again the horizontal) could attach to the tie rods. I think this would also give you ackerman steering.

 

[OddJob]

However, and whenever, you get this steering thing figured out, you HAVE to ride this baby in a parade. This is a parade bike if I ever saw one!

 

[MazdaFlyer]

I connected the temporary wooden cross member to framework with a couple of dicey lag bolts and added a couple of gussets. If I was to retain the wood member I’d add a couple of U-bolts. Pretty stable without the pivot. When I get the wheel track width set and steering connected probably change out the wood beam for metal angles.

Trial and Error...Do or Die.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

Could you adapt the original axle mount on the fork to use the axle pivot bolt to connect the tie rods to the fork?
Looking at the front view of the hood, you could add a big crank coming out of that center hole. Doesn't need to connect to anything, just make people wonder what the crank was for.
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Thanks, your “original axle mount” pivot suggestion is in the mix. The crank would give it a vintage look but I’m thinking a light for the front hole. Even a windup key...

Would using two parallel bars, one to each top bolt of the spindle mounts and one to the lowers allow the bike to lean in the turns?
It might limit your steering, and the weight of the hood might make it difficult to balance. Just an idea.
A "I" shaped bracket with the top (horizontal)part of the "I" attaching to the fork ends. The bottom of the "I" (again the horizontal) could attach to the tie rods. I think this would also give you ackerman steering.

If the 2x leaves I was thinking two horizontal angles top and bottom. I guess the top one could be fixed and the bottom one could float. I just want to keep things taut and not squirmy. Thanks!
Not sure I’m following your “I” bracket connection. I need to out and stare at the build for a while.

However, and whenever, you get this steering thing figured out, you HAVE to ride this baby in a parade. This is a parade bike if I ever saw one!

Yes it an abnormality. Not your typical cruiser, trail bike, commuter, low rider or utility bike. Not sure how to categorize it, maybe clown bike. Starting to think I’ll need to gear down the drive train.

 

[The Renaissance Man]

With all of the bracing along with the 'tractor body' it is beginning to look quite heavy.
You might need to start thinking about an electric rear hub motor! You would have plenty of space to hide batteries and electronics.

 

[Shrunken_Head_Pedaler]

I connected the temporary wooden cross member to framework with a couple of dicey lag bolts and added a couple of gussets. If I was to retain the wood member I’d add a couple of U-bolts. Pretty stable without the pivot. When I get the wheel track width set and steering connected probably change out the wood beam for metal angles.

Trial and Error...Do or Die.

I’m rooting for this build!

 

[SpikeFC]

I connected the temporary wooden cross member to framework with a couple of dicey lag bolts and added a couple of gussets. If I was to retain the wood member I’d add a couple of U-bolts. Pretty stable without the pivot. When I get the wheel track width set and steering connected probably change out the wood beam for metal angles.

Trial and Error...Do or Die.

You're doing great with figuring out the steering/suspension on this thing!

 

[MazdaFlyer]

Cut down a fork today. To be continued...

 

[handyandy1100]

Now we're cookin' with gas!

Wait, it's Odd Job's build that has gas...

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[Psychographic]

The more I look at this, the more I think you could do away with a lot of that bracing and save a lot of weight. How much does the tractor hood weigh?

I bet you could do some great stoppies (sp?) with this.

 

[MazdaFlyer]

Now we're cookin' with gas!

Wait, it's Odd Job's build that has gas...

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Hope your right. I had around three ideas today that became dead end failures. Trial and Error at its worst. So hopefully the next testing lab workday pans out better. We paid 48 cents a gallon for gas this past weekend.

The more I look at this, the more I think you could do away with a lot of that bracing and save a lot of weight. How much does the tractor hood weigh?

I bet you could do some great stoppies (sp?) with this.

Well the main top horizontals are cantilevers attached to the bike frame. They in turn support the front axle steering assembly. There are several counteracting load forces. The perforated 45 degree gussets probably need to be moved to back of the vertical axle beam.
The hood isn’t all that heavy, the structure is mainly for handling the stretched wheelbase front tricycle steering. At least that’s the theory behind the beef.
I doubt this is a skid bike, it may drift some though.

 

[furyus]

Love this build. Can I recommend some Gibbs Penetrating Oil for the rusty hood. Really gives life to the rust and brings out color. Dries to the touch in a day or two. Way superior to WD40. You can find it on eBay; a little pricy but well worth it. I’ve used it on all my rats and am now using it on my raw Lairdframe. The Laird will get no paint or clear, ever. Just Gibbs.

Regardless, the build is fantastic.
furyus