There's a mountain bike and fat bike thread.
But if you're building it, it could go in the builds thread.
Thanks man. I'll just leave it in builds. Not really a rat so a little inappropriate in builds. It's not a vintage MB or a Klunker either so it would be a little inappropriate there too. Most fat bike posts seemed to be for sand bikes or beach cruisers or modified to be rat rod bikes. I know there are MB forums but I don't care for them. I'm a RRB fan and people here are open to experimentation. I'm trying to build a mb for an old timer with specific needs. The elitists on the mb forums would probably think this bike is a joke and give me advice for a young fit taller person. I used to be 5' 10" but at 72 I have shrunk 2 inches. I need a bike that is light, upright and geared very low, way lower than any recent bikes I have trialed. A 32 by anything chainring is way more than I can handle on the new single chainring set ups they are promoting. Go down to a 24 and you got no top speed. Even the newer 50 or more tooth cassettes can give me the range. It takes a lot of cassette teeth to equal one tooth on a chainring. I am going with a double chainring, 34 & 21 teeth. The cassette is a ten speed, 11 to 42 teeth. This puts me in my sweet spot, gear inch in the 13s and I will still have enough speed to keep up on the road sections of our group rides, but I will be spinning pretty fast to keep up with those who still have tripple chainrings. Quite a few of our late 60s -70s year old riders still have bikes with tripples, some with the 22 tooth chainring replaced with a 20. They no longer make mb for the geriatric set. You gotta use an older bike or make one.
Im 40, I use to be 6'1". Thanks to a terrible car crash I'm now an inch shorter, and deal with a lot of back and neck pain.
I honestly never expected to be alive today, and not sure I'll make it to 72.
But if I do, I hope like you; I am still able to ride. That's amazing.[/QUOTE
Through a lot of experience I have found that you need to move your body through space. Forty years ago I spent 6 months on crutches, the whole time in PT for my left knee rebuild, it was crushed and the repair was screws and the reattachment of the tendons. I have had no ACL or cartilage for 40years. My doctor can't believed it hasn't been replaced yet. Every time it got really bad exercise saved me from a replacement. My son was a ski jumper and I coached him, helped maintain the jump and climbed a lot of stairs. The knee really improved when he moved to big hills. He was on the US Ski Jumping Team but retired 20 years ago. The knee got so bad after that I couldn't stand without it buckling. My knee doctor told me to start spinning and it improved markedly. I also have had multiple back surgeries. I was on fentanyl and methadone for years but I have been off it for 15 years because I started biking and stretching. I'm not saying this will work for everyone, but for me the results of daily exercise and stretching have worked wonders. I really didn't get better when I worked. With the kids gone and lots of time because of retirement I was able to devote a lot of time to exercise. Work will kill you, retirement is the best job I ever had. Right now I do about a half hour a day stretching and three times a week gentle strength exercises for a total of about an hour. I slowly ride my stationary bike three times a day for a daily total of 7 miles. Some days I walk a mile or two but my knee doesn't like it. I use walking poles to keep my back straight and to act like a cane to ease pressure on the knees. My neurosurgeon says to walk but my knee doctor says no walking, spinning only so I mostly ride. Biking is the best, fun, gives you a good attitude too. I guess I would recommend biking on any kind of bike as good therapy. I stated biking on a very upright womans bike because I couldn't toss my leg over the saddle. I had to lay the bike down and step into the frame then pick it up. For a year and a half I could only ride around the block. It never got easier, then one day I went six blocks. After another year I could ride 4 miles. It took 6 years after retirement for me to be able ride 10 miles on single track. Last spring I rode in a 100 km gravel grinder race. I'll never be able to do that again but I'm going to keep riding and stretching and ignoring pain. My pain is tolerable as long as I keep up the biking and stretching.
OK, I can do that. Give me a few days, we are in Green Bay buying stuff you can't find in the UP. I'll see what pictures I have. I have been avoiding adding up the cost, I don't want to know. But since you requested it, I'll add it up. Later alligator.Looks cool so far. I would like to see a build thread, and maybe sources and approx cost of the components.
It's a 27.5 frame and 26 x 3 easily fit the fork and 26.8 fit the rear. I know boost has nothing to do with geometry, I used the term for lack of a better term and I though everyone would understand that. I put 3 inch inexpensive Duro tires on it first to see what fits. The diameter is 27.5 inches. I know of no one who has broken a Chinese carbon frame. I have refuced the height of the spacers to the top of the gooseneck to 80 mm, which is the max recommend height for a carbon fork tube. I'm not worried about braking it, 160 pounds riding weight, sand and gravel only, and easy riding because of my multiple back and knee surgeries. Before my recent back fusions I rode hard for a 70+ year old and had many bad crashes. Some required medical attention to remove broken tree branch from my arm and broken ribs from going over the bars on a big jump. I'm done riding like this and racing.Couple of things U-man...
1.) Boost spacing has nothing to do with the "geometry" of your frame. Boost spacing is an effort to force you to give up your Q/R frame in a planned obsolescence move by the bike industry. Boost spacing mythology continues today, meant to convince you that 135mm Q/R dropouts are "obsolete". Wider dropout distance , or "Boost" spacing forces you to now run a $400 12-spd cassette while maintaining wheel strength and keeping a rideable gear range with one front chainring. Boost spacing only allows you to minimize the amount of "dish" in your back wheel when running giant and expensive-on-purpose cassettes. "Boost" spacing is also incorrectly stated in the fake news media as "necessary" in order to allow you to be able to run fat tires. Oh really? When full-suspension 29-ers were being forced onto the public, they were running into design, geometry and handling problems because the bottom bracket area could not accommodate wagon wheels, a BB pivot, and three chainrings all at once while maintaining workable geometry. Because of this, it presented the perfect opportunity to force planned obsolescence onto you. Bike companies then convinced you that you "need" only one front chain-ring, which forces you to run a huge and expensive 11/12 spd cassette, which requires you to have "Boost" frame spacing, which pushes your 26" bike into planned oblivion. If bike companies wanted you to keep your old 26-er while being able to run 2.8 to 3.0 tires and any drivetrain,(which you are not allowed to do) all they had to do was widen the seat and chain-stays to accommodate the wide and tall high-volume tires. This did not happen. Running a 2.8 WTB in the 26" rim size makes the overall height of the wheel the same size as a "normal" 27.5er, while remaining stronger, lighter, quicker, and less expensive while taking advantage of the high-volume tire format. Bike companies worst nightmare. 26" 2.5 to 3.0 tires are hard to find on purpose, and frames able to run this perfect combo are not made. They make too much sense now that "Plus" is the latest and greatest thing since sliced bread. We are losing the ability to think critically about these things any longer, and as a result, we are running head first off the cliff with this latest and greatest "superior technology".
2.) Having a long Chinese carbon steer tube with spacers on a maybe even cheaper chinese "carbon" frame will put you back into the hospital faster than most anything. I would not do it.
3.) Keith Bontrager said it very well. "Pick two......Strong.....Light.....Cheap" you can't have all three at the same time.. fiSKPC
The 2.8 when on by hand. The 3 inch was very difficult.Cool. Sounds like you are on the right track U-man! Hopefully your frame is made by one of the reputable factories in China. There are two or three good ones that make almost all of the name brand carbon MTB frames. I think you should be ok with your plans as long as you stick with them and not wham it too much! I always suggest spending a bit more money on parts, as it pays off in the long run. I was running the 26 x 2.8 Rangers last summer. VERY difficult to get onto the rim. I think they may have been 2nds and sold cheaper because of it. Oh yea, welcome to the world of crashing. I have had my share of very bad ones MTB-ing, and finally accepted that they are just a part of the deal, right? The older I get, the more cautious I am. I would post a pic of my sewn up face here, but it would scare the kids.
I have unbelievable riding right from my door at our new house. I can ride gravel, sand and single track here. The single track has no rocks or jumps as it is on glacial outwash. We used to live less than a mile from the Marquette South Single Track System. I could never get strong or good enough to ride about 25 percent of those or the RAMBA System fifteen miles away in Negaunee and Ishpeming. I want to try and focus on adventure riding. My idea is to ride through the woods form home to Grand Marais, Mi, to Paradise, to Sault Ste Marie, Mi, ferries to Sugar and Neebish Islands, Barbeau, Rexton, Curtis, Seney and home through Scotts Marsh Trail. I don't know if I can get well emough to do this, about 350 miles. I gotta find other old timers that I can keep up with to go along.Cool. Sounds like you are on the right track U-man! Hopefully your frame is made by one of the reputable factories in China. There are two or three good ones that make almost all of the name brand carbon MTB frames. I think you should be ok with your plans as long as you stick with them and not wham it too much! I always suggest spending a bit more money on parts, as it pays off in the long run. I was running the 26 x 2.8 Rangers last summer. VERY difficult to get onto the rim. I think they may have been 2nds and sold cheaper because of it. Oh yea, welcome to the world of crashing. I have had my share of very bad ones MTB-ing, and finally accepted that they are just a part of the deal, right? The older I get, the more cautious I am. I would post a pic of my sewn up face here, but it would scare the kids.