The 3spd jack shaft wont work in the old BB location. I will cut most of the old BB out and close up whats left with some 16 gage sheet steel. I would like to fab up the 3spd jack shaft this weekend.
Nito
Nito
WINTER BUILD OFF "STEEL CITY"
- Thread starter nito900rr
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Looking forward to Mondays update then! 
Luke.
Luke.
Been a while but my son and I installed a 1500 watt full custom audio system into his truck for x-mas!
I did manage to start putting the frame back to gether though.
Here is a pick of the sleeve I fabbed up to re-attach the bottom tube. This will be the same for top and middle tubes also.
Tomorrow I will be finishing the rest of the sleeves and tacking them together and starting on the jack shaft
Nito
I did manage to start putting the frame back to gether though.
Here is a pick of the sleeve I fabbed up to re-attach the bottom tube. This will be the same for top and middle tubes also.
Tomorrow I will be finishing the rest of the sleeves and tacking them together and starting on the jack shaft
Nito
Got the shims fabbed up and everything tacked up. Also started on the jack shaft.
Tomorrow full steam ahead on the jack shaft !!!
Nito
Tomorrow full steam ahead on the jack shaft !!!
Nito
I saw the fence in the background through the frame I go "wow that's an interesting idea for a tank" now that I see it's not a tank I can steal the idea.
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Ha ha... snap! I did exactly the same
A trellis tank Glen.
I'm so used to it being in the background, I didn't even notice! Lol Someone should try it!
Nito
Nito
Looking really good Nito!
Luke.
Luke.
The Pedal Whips world headquarters! lol
Nito
Nito
After alot of planning and scale drawings, I starrted on the jack shaft today. I used my drill press and hole saws to cut a hub flange out of some 1/8" mild steel
After that was cut, I transfered the spoke hole pattern over to the new flange. Then drilled and tapped the holes to accept 9 6/32 machine screws.
Parts pile!!!
More measuring to insure it was true, then tacked up the flange to 14 guage 2" tubing that will seperate the 2 jack shaft sprockets.
Tomorrow...more work on yhe jack shaft!!!!
Nito
After that was cut, I transfered the spoke hole pattern over to the new flange. Then drilled and tapped the holes to accept 9 6/32 machine screws.
Parts pile!!!
More measuring to insure it was true, then tacked up the flange to 14 guage 2" tubing that will seperate the 2 jack shaft sprockets.
Tomorrow...more work on yhe jack shaft!!!!
Nito
Very cool work! I am a little worried about the torque on the side flange of the hub, do you think 6/32 threaded rod all the way through to the opposite flange would work?
Edit: Just realised the spoke holes would be offset, so that would not work anyway...
Luke.
Edit: Just realised the spoke holes would be offset, so that would not work anyway...
Luke.
This was a concern of mine to because I've not used a 6/32 in this manner before. I will be using 9 grade 8 6/32's. There clamping strength is listed as 832 lbs and a proof strength (breaking point) of 180lbs. Not to be confused with the very common grade 2 which proof only to 55 lbs and have a clamping strength of 330lbs. I am more worried about the flange theads stripping out so I may l use some nuts.
Also the peice of 2" will be cut down to only be about 3" long.
Nito
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I lined up the flange I made to the hub and marked the holes with a ultra fine point sharpie to get me close. Then used my caliper to fine tune the measurements. Then I prayed my butt off!!! lol
Nito
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Might be possible to tap the cones out to a beefier size if you haven't bought the threaded stock yet...
Carl.
Carl.
Thx for the idea Carl. Are you saying to re-tap the cones to accept a bigger axle? I would be worried about taking the hub apart to do that because of the complexity of the Shimano 333 3speed hub.
Nito
Yeah there is that... but yes I was thinking bigger axle... and just thinking out loud here...you'll probably be fine, I think there will actually be less stress on the jack shaft...chains pulling in opposite directions may cause some torque but no weight will be sitting on it like the original axle config was...
Carl.
I also skipped right over the 3 speed part.
How are you going to stretch the shifter cable linkage ???
This build has me scratchin' my head...
Carl.
How are you going to stretch the shifter cable linkage ???
This build has me scratchin' my head...
Carl.
It had me scratchin my head at first also!
lol But then it started falling into place. The shifter linkage will be opposite the new flange/cog assembly so no issue with that. This is the idea....lengthen the existing axle through the new hub flange extension past the new cog that will drive the rear hub. I will also use a cone and bearing to help support the new cog/hub extension assembly. Then bolt down the entire hub assembly as you would a normal wheel hub. I will try to have a mocked up version to post tonight. Nito
