Help with a bendix hub

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It may have a broken part or the grease has gone hard and the shoes may be sticking. There are videos on youtube showing how to rebuild one. I serviced a simple Bendix coaster a while ago on a friend’s Columbia. Very easy to do. Cleaning out the old grease is the hardest part of the process.
 
What model of Bendix hub is it? I have a few styles and may be able to duplicate your problem, like reverse engineering. There are differences inside though so I need to know and photos may be more helpful
Rob
 
Oldbikeguy1960 said:
What model of Bendix hub is it? I have a few styles and may be able to duplicate your problem, like reverse engineering. There are differences inside though so I need to know and photos may be more helpful
Rob
Click to expand...
Good idea.

I had an Electra straight 8 with a sram 3 speed coaster. The brake did the same as yours but usually only on the first couple of applications. I was told it was the grease but never changed it and sold the bike as it was.

What type of grease did you use? The shoes sound stuck to the assy and not pushing outward as they should. If not the grease maybe something is worn or the spring is broken.
 
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I'm guessing the retarder spring assembly isn't holding together as you add the drive screw. That would allow the extra space allowing the whole turn to get the brakes on. On the worn out hubs I had when I was way younger, I would put the retarder spring assembly together and very gently screw in the drive screw, then add the brake shoes and tighten it all up. That would give a little longer life to the hub.
 
My dad showed me a lot about single and two sppeed coasters as well as Sturmey Archer 3 speeds, but his favorite was New Departure. Seeing the way they were made I can understand now.
I wish I would've paid more attention. I was into the 5 speed Krates and 10 speed road bikes. coaster bikes were only good for wearing out our Slik tires, which we did enjoy doing.
We used to take the shoes out as teens, we were some of the guys riding the first wave of 1970s BMX bikes in our area and we were simulating freewheel hubs. Later a company started making the Unbrake and soon coaster brakes were relegated to the dustbin and little kids bikes.
Glad someone was paying attention.
 
I've been on a tear with restoring all kinds of coaster hubs recently and find the Bendix RB2 the easiest to deal with. That's most likely due to being able to service the Bendix hubs from an early age and they are what I deal with more than any of the others. One or all of the aforementioned suggestions above should answer your question. Following the exploded view should also help get things in order.

I currently have a Shimano D Series soaking in parts cleaner after restoring the RB2 in this "Cruiser Light" wheelset that was laced up yesterday.

20220907_182111.jpg


Today's plan to beat the anticipated heat is to clean up a few more 26" aluminum rim sets, do some more calcs, add specs to my wheelbuilding data sheet and if proper spokes are on-hand, lace up another wheelset or two. Oh yeah...and Listen To Black Sabbath 🇬🇧
 
Too cool KCI. Thats a cool Schwinn canti. Classic color combo of Black, chrome and white.

The last Bendix coaster I serviced was fitted to one of the 85 reissue Columbia bikes still made in the USA. It was similar to the many Shimano CB-110E coasters I’ve worked on, leading me to believe Shimano must have copied Bendix as the latter definitely came first.
 
The Bendix hubs are tough. I have an original skip tooth version that is in great shape even though it was used for years. But I would also love to get my hands on a red band hub.
 
Wildcat said:
The Bendix hubs are tough. I have an original skip tooth version that is in great shape even though it was used for years. But I would also love to get my hands on a red band hub.
Click to expand...
I will look, I may have one.
28 or 36 spoke wheels?
 
36. But shipping costs too much and it may not even make it here. Then an instant tax will be charged at my door, usually the value of the item. I may find one here as I'm always looking. In Manila there are a few places with older parts, but that's an all day ordeal traveling.
I have access to the military mail system, limited to 1lb, but that privilege is ending unless us veterans can keep it going somehow.
 
Sorry man, I guess I should've checked your location first.
Good luck on the search.
Rob
 
NP. I have an original that's in great shape, even has the oil port cover. Skip tooth, but I have the chain and Hawthorne chain wheel. I'm hoping to find a vintage frame.
 
Karate Chicken Industries said:
I've been on a tear with restoring all kinds of coaster hubs recently and find the Bendix RB2 the easiest to deal with. That's most likely due to being able to service the Bendix hubs from an early age and they are what I deal with more than any of the others. One or all of the aforementioned suggestions above should answer your question. Following the exploded view should also help get things in order.

I currently have a Shimano D Series soaking in parts cleaner after restoring the RB2 in this "Cruiser Light" wheelset that was laced up yesterday.

View attachment 209200

Today's plan to beat the anticipated heat is to clean up a few more 26" aluminum rim sets, do some more calcs, add specs to my wheelbuilding data sheet and if proper spokes are on-hand, lace up another wheelset or two. Oh yeah...and Listen To Black Sabbath 🇬🇧
Click to expand...
Sounds like a great day!
 
Bendix coasters... You might have it adjusted to tight... I run them loose just a little play... If I wiggle the wheel the sprocket will move just slightly...
 

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