Tange 3piece crank help

[Brian macumber]

I am having trouble trying to get the chain to line up.

No matter which way I put the crank in the sprocket ends up further out than the one on the wheel. If I put the side with the flange on drive side it is better but still not lining up. The only way I could get it to line up was putting washers on the non drive side but then there's only about half the race riding on the sealed bearing. I've tried to goggle it but could only find people using ball bearing ones not sealed ones. Thanks for any help.

 

[Wildcat]

I haven't worked with that set, but it looks like you could reverse the spindle to get a better alignment. The adjusting nut should be on the opposite side from the chain wheel.

 

[Captain Awesome]

I haven't worked with that set, but it looks like you could reverse the spindle to get a better alignment. The adjusting nut should be on the opposite side from the chain wheel.

Yep. Flip it over and try again or see if you can get a threadless cup set for that BB. I know that sq taper ones exist

 

[Brian macumber]

I haven't worked with that set, but it looks like you could reverse the spindle to get a better alignment. The adjusting nut should be on the opposite side from the chain wheel.

I tried it both ways with the flange side on the drive side of the bike was closer but still not aligned. Starting to think maybe not the right part?

 

[Brian macumber]

Yep. Flip it over and try again or see if you can get a threadless cup set for that BB. I know that sq taper ones exist

This set is a square taper with sealed bearing.

I think this is it

 

[Wildcat]

looking at your pic again, the cog looks right, the chainwheel is too far outward. A shorter spindle may be the solution. The bottom bracket also looks normal so the bike isn't the problem. Before buying more parts, lay it all out and let us have a look, maybe someone will see the problem.

 

[rickpaulos]

The problem getting a shorter axle is these are special axles and they just don't make them in all the lengths like standard axles or cartridge bbs.

Another option is another crank arm. Different brands have the taper sticking out or recessed more. It's pretty noticeable on many mtb crank arms. Old school arms tend to sit farther in on the axles so those needed longer axles. Newer cranks are designed to use shorter (and less flexible) axles. Old school cranks look very flat, yours has quite a bit of spider angle that we can see in the top view photo.

You might use the "string method" to make sure the frame is straight. Aluminum frames don't get bent as easy as cheap steel frames but I'd check anyhow.

Sometimes you can rearrange the washers/spacers on the axle to move the gears left/right.

chainrings/sprockets can be bolted to the inside or outside of the spider. That will alter the chain line. IMO, they look better on the outside but I've seen some on the inside.

 

[Karate Chicken Industries]

chainrings/sprockets can be bolted to the inside or outside of the spider. That will alter the chain line. IMO, they look better on the outside but I've seen some on the inside.

On budget builds, I'll run the chainring on the inside of the spider. One thing to be mindful of with larger chainrings is chainstay clearance.

 

[Brian macumber]

looking at your pic again, the cog looks right, the chainwheel is too far outward. A shorter spindle may be the solution. The bottom bracket also looks normal so the bike isn't the problem. Before buying more parts, lay it all out and let us have a look, maybe someone will see the problem.

I'll take back apart when I get home and lay the pieces out and take a picture and try and explain better.

 

[Brian macumber]

I think I figured out the cranks are CPI 170 mm for 3 piece chain rings. Not sure if that makes a difference. I took the bolt out that holds the crank on and there's a little bit of room for the crank to go back further if it didn't bottom out. Maybe I could use a file or something to get it to go on a little further then I should be able to take out the spacer I have in there now and even the cranks out as 1 side is out further now.

If that doesn't work then I guess I will be looking for new cranks.

 

[RustySprockets]

It seems obvious to me that this spindle is simply too wide for your application. Was that part of the Tange kit? Those tapered spindles come in various widths, you know.

I don't imagine switching cranks will be a solution, as they will not nestle any closer to the frame than the ones you already have. That's just the nature of square-taper.

 

[Brian macumber]

It seems obvious to me that this spindle is simply too wide for your application. Was that part of the Tange kit? Those tapered spindles come in various widths, you know.

I don't imagine switching cranks will be a solution, as they will not nestle any closer to the frame than the ones you already have. That's just the nature of square-taper.

I was able to use a little file to clean up the inside of the crank arms and get it to go on further. So I was able to take the spacer out and line everything up. Plus I may not have tightened up the bolt enough for fear on stripping it out. Thanks for the help everyone much appreciated.

Still a little off but not noticeable riding will probably work on the non drive side a little more to even it out better. This thing rides awesome .

 

[us56456712]

Measure the off set and order the correct spindle. Your LBS will measure and order one for you if you aren’t comfortable measuring yourself. This is really the only way to do it right. Sometimes reducing the size of the small chainring will require a new spindle with a little longer offset. I’ve always been able to find what I need, square taper wise. I always save square taper bbs from my junk bikes. Your spindle was probably from a double, not a single chainring, with multiple cogs. That could be the problem, trying to make that work as a single speed.