♠♢The Player♡♣

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Thank you @Skipton. I've followed your unique style since joining RRB.


:39:
Bruce lee.jpg

My idol's ride:cool2:
 
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I evaluate BMX tires, have a large collection. So I see in @Bike from the Dead's build a nice tire I wasn't aware of. Ironically, he discovered it searching for a tire I suggested. Had to have a Prowler of my own:happy:

It's a folding tire making it lighter than wire beads. I prefer wire because some folding tires have a tendency to blow off older rims at high pressure. Folding tires according to BFTD are easier to mount, I can relate. Getting a set of wire bead Maxxis Holy Rollers on a Sun Rhyno Lite rim can be a chore with soapy water and tire levers!

Love zig-zag tread, rare to see in 20''. I typically go for tires with an unbroken center line for reduced rolling resistance. Wondering if it'll make a sound with a center zig-zag groove. Overall quality looks decent. No opinion on tire casting ATM. The prowler has a lower quality rubber compound compared to more high-end tires in the same price range. Cool tire for muscle bike builds tho. Unsure how to remove the lettering. Label appears vulcanized on.
Tire weight = 635g. 60mm width @ 65 PSI on a 40mm wide rim. $35 MSRP
View attachment 179362
View attachment 179363
Thank you for helping me help you help us all! Awesome tire review! Do you have a thread dedicated to tire reviews? That'd actually be cool to see! Look forward to seeing how this tire performs in the long-term review.

Seems like the wider the wheel, the wider the tire can get. On the small wheels I mounted my tire to, it only measured just over 2 inches sidewall-to-sidewall. Maybe it's just the photo, but it looks that much bigger on your wheel than it did on mine.
 
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Thank you for helping me help you help us all! Awesome tire review! Do you have a thread dedicated to tire reviews? That'd actually be cool to see! Look forward to seeing how this tire performs in the long-term review.

Seems like the wider the wheel, the wider the tire can get. On the small wheels I mounted my tire to, it only measured just over 2 inches sidewall-to-sidewall. Maybe it's just the photo, but it looks that much bigger on your wheel than it did on mine.
No reviews posted. You are correct regarding width. Rubber used for the Prowler is quite pliable, swells more than some others. On a 40mm rim @ 60 psi it looks fat, but that's an uncomfortable riding pressure for muscle bikes which are around 40 PSI. There is no anti puncture feature and I can tell from experience based on scratching and smell the compound is on the weak side. I would value the tire closer to $25. Current cost is exorbitant. Seems like a new tire, I'd wait for a price drop, just don't wait too long. Sometimes tires get discontinued early. Tire does look dope tho! Thanks again BFTD, I'm sure it'll work somewhere.


Surgery was a success, released in the morning. Told to take it very easy... did I take the advice...

Thought of various ways to cut down my head tube to fit the fork. The legs don't go past the top plate. I used the lowest profile headset I could get.
IMG1.jpg


:39: Dremel and lightweight washers might work.
First, measure how much to remove including the cut-off wheel kerf.
IMG2.jpg


Seems to be working...
IMG3.jpg


I could hold the depth gauge (large washer) while working the tool in a circular motion.
IMG4.jpg


Breaking through, not quick as a saw but it's working as I hoped.
IMGbreak.jpg


Perfect clean cut.
IMGdone.jpg

Issues. I had to apply a thin grease to the mandrel and washers to lower friction. Dremels aren't powerful(slower process). I suspect vibration and too much grease caused the mandrel to slip in the collet. Got loose, had to tighten it several times.

Test fit, this'll do.
IMG5.jpg



Extending shifter arm. How I remove the knob from Shimano shifters.
I could do without heat during removal. Using heat to prevent the knob from cracking.
cooking.jpg


Removed by prying apart with a large screwdriver against the grip. The brass prevents scratches.
IMGremoved.jpg


Heat didn't workout for this knob:confused:
cracknob.jpg


Kudos to you guys documenting your builds! Takes effort. I typically work fast once things start to click. I hesitated twice removing the frame's patina... already started on one section, committed now...


Fantastic video I saw in my room. We know so much yet still don't fully understand how bicycles works. Some of what's mentioned is relative to my build being negative trail steering.
 
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No reviews posted. You are correct regarding width. Rubber used for the Prowler is quite pliable, swells more than some others. On a 40mm rim @ 60 psi it looks fat, but that's an uncomfortable riding pressure for muscle bikes which are around 40 PSI. There is no anti puncture feature and I can tell from experience based on scratching and smell the compound is on the weak side. I would value the tire closer to $25. Current cost is exorbitant. Seems like a new tire, I'd wait for a price drop, just don't wait too long. Sometimes tires get discontinued early. Tire does look dope tho! Thanks again BFTD, I'm sure it'll work somewhere.


Surgery was a success, released in the morning. Told to take it very easy... did I take the advice... of course not.

So waiting around in the hospital, I thought of various ways to cut down my head tube to fit the fork. My cut requires a unique jig that would take time to fab, I'm impatient. The legs don't go past the top plate. I used the lowest profile headset I could get. Nothing could be removed from the bottom because it would cause interference and alter steering geometry.
View attachment 179737

:39: Dremel and lightweight washers might work.
First, measure how much to remove including the cut-off wheel kerf.
View attachment 179738

Seems to be working...
View attachment 179739

I could hold the depth gauge (large washer) while working the tool in a circular motion.
View attachment 179740

Breaking through, not quick as a saw but it's working as I hoped.
View attachment 179741

Perfect clean cut.
View attachment 179742
Issues. I had to apply a thin grease to the mandrel and washers to lower friction. Dremels aren't powerful(slower process). I suspect vibration and too much grease caused the mandrel to slip in the collet. Got loose, had to tighten it several times.

Test fit, this'll do.
View attachment 179743


Making a long Rat Fink style shifter adding to the existing arm attached to the 5/8'' mid tube.
How I remove the knob from Shimano shifters.
Time to cook... I could do without heat during removal. Using heat to prevent the knob from cracking.
View attachment 179744

While we wait, we hydrate. My jam
View attachment 179759

Removed by prying apart with a large screwdriver against the grip. The brass prevents scratches.
View attachment 179745

Heat didn't workout for this knob:confused:
View attachment 179746

Something I discovered about the 5/8'' mounting clamp for the Click-Stick shifter not on others. Orientation can be set to 3 positions, 60 degrees. Bet I could drill holes for in-between.
View attachment 179755

Kudos to you guys documenting your builds! Takes effort. I typically work fast once things start to click. I hesitated twice removing the frame's patina... already started on one section, committed now...


Fantastic video I saw in my room. We know so much yet still don't fully understand how bicycles works. Some of what's mentioned is relative to my build being negative trail steering.
Man, you're very thorough when it comes to tire reviews! I wouldn't even know how to look for those kinds of details! Glad I was able to introduce you to that tire!

Glad to hear your surgery went well.

It always amazes me to see how you go about modifying your bikes. Using a few washers to properly space the Dremel tool so you cut off the right amount for the forks to clear? I would never have thought of that! You're building bikes as if you're building a particle accelerator, and here I am basically banging rocks together like a caveman!

Dang, that was one seriously interesting video. Never even thought about how you always counter-steer before making a turn, or how all these elements surrounding the steering affect the bike's and rider's balance. Really cool stuff! Makes me think of a video SmarterEveryDay posted a while back about riding a reverse-steering bike.
 
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Trying a hoop from another build that was sidelined. Used twist ties to hold the spokes in place till a replacement rim.
S1.jpg


Hub&spokes to be stored. I used two diffident spoke lengths for the build, don't want to mess with..
Store.jpg


Start of a new wheel.
IMG1x.jpg


Standard 3 cross pattern stuff from here.
3 Cross.jpg


Ready to roll.
Fin.jpg


The axle nuts are cute, specific to the hub.
nuts.jpg
 
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I can't bring myself to remove the finish of the frame after several attempts. Too personal. I'm pursuing the black and red bike for next year instead. One of the more appealing bikes I'm putting together for myself. The BO documentation is affecting the direction of my build in ways that are less enjoyable. The bike is more than aesthetics, it's designed for a specific purpose important to me. It's in an intangible state viewed by photos and video. It's something that has to be experienced IRL to fully appreciate. I'm going to ride the wheels off it when it's done.

AM-JKLXZkVsQu43vIJ6na90MqNZwpfSMJ6R83an3dAPHUdP3VqqOJ3jyDCJ6ppTj5dPDmgb0-ZnRPxvFwVQgemipb9B-Ww1xnmHK-x_BlYCg9H7Ta1l8kcZRX1JHlj-RnNyNnPkNH_4b9AQQU6MMRzVW6RD4=w838-h905-no

Best regards.
 
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The BO documentation is affecting the direction of my build in ways
This is a struggle for me as well. Gotta stick to the vision. For once Im trying to say no to peer pressure. Build it as I want, not what the bike wants, not for the voters. This one will be MY BIKE

PS listen to this voter: BlacknRed bike is mint. Wrap it up and roll
 
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I can't bring myself to remove the finish of the frame after several attempts. Too personal. I'm pursuing the black and red bike for next year instead. One of the more appealing bikes I'm putting together for myself. The BO documentation is affecting the direction of my build in ways that are less enjoyable. The bike is more than aesthetics, it's designed for a specific purpose important to me. It's in an intangible state viewed by photos and video. It's something that has to be experienced IRL to fully appreciate. I'm going to ride the wheels off it when it's done.
View attachment 180818
Best regards.
To be honest, I really like the frame as it is right now. After all this is RAT rod bikes... 😉👍
 

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The BO documentation is affecting the direction of my build in ways that are less enjoyable. The bike is more than aesthetics, it's designed for a specific purpose important to me. It's in an intangible state viewed by photos and video

You do you. :thumbsup: :cool2:


Gotta stick to the vision

Right on!
 
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Thanks for the input guys, appreciated.

I realized soon after fitting the wheel & slick that I'm not into those tires as much anymore, which was a primary component of the initial concept.

The frame was out of sight not in use for a long time. My mission was to make it beautiful again. Upon handling it though, I recalled all the places we've been together. I identify with its finish. When I was about past the nostalgia I placed parts on for one last look. I pretty much knew right after mockup that I needed to make what appeared in front of me functional.

Taking photos during building is an inconvenience. The lighting has to be right, my hands are greasy, the phone is charging, I'm not sure what's pertinent etc... Not even at the stage of posting online yet... I need to get my build on!

Creativity and artistic merit are at the top of the totem pole on RRB. I see some members relying on wit and photography as part of their build process. It's always interesting to read a backstory.
I can't express the amount of time I spent on each build just in performance refinements. All my rides are designed to operate without failures for hundreds of miles. Can't remember the last flat tire because the tires are special. My hubs are not stock. I modded most of them for improved efficiency. I specifically hide the fact I'm running with quality components for appearances and to trick other riders around... That's my game.
Performance isn't necessary a rat rod trait. I'm not the guy to follow if you want a patina paint job. BUT, if you have to beat everyone else's junk, I might be a person of interest.

The bike in the above photo will be more than capable of keeping up the quickest bikes around. Not much ATM fits well. I'm mixing different brands and parts. I have a Sturmey Archer shifter connected to a Shimano IGH. I don't believe illustrating the technical solutions involve are as much of an interest on this forum based of reactions. I don't even fully understand how certain things work or how to document it at times.

Gonna be a killer ride for sure!
 
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(snip)

:39: Dremel and lightweight washers might work.
First, measure how much to remove including the cut-off wheel kerf.
View attachment 179738

(snip)

Popping in to say I LOVE the stance of this bike the way it's shaping up. Also, I remember learning the word "kerf" in 8th grade shop class and I don't think I've heard it since. :rofl:
 
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Seat tub inside diameter was a tight 7/8'', reamed it.
rem.jpg


Headset construction... It's one of those oddball sizes somewhere between Huffy and Schwinn.
headset.jpg


Fiddled around with this .... till I realized the fork stop was rubbing the cup rim. Used crowbar to bend it.
F-U.jpg


Pullers come in handy for pressing in cups.
BB.jpg


Chainline check is perfect.
Chainline.jpg


Dead nuts straight.
straight.jpg


Grearing: 170mm cr-mo crank.
Screenshot 2021 Graphical Gear Calculator .png

One of my most important tools. Best buck I ever spent.
magnify.jpg


Playing in background during work.
 
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