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I sent him these pics via FB messenger and he could tell that the gap wasn't right. I had raised the front legs too much. The angle of the top of the rocker needs to be greater than the 90 degrees that I had it at. Sure enough, I measure more precisely and discovered it wasn't an even gap.
He also said that to properly setup the fork, I should block up the frame at the desired height, so that it doesn't push down on the fork. So I found some buckets that worked for the job. I also cut a wooden ship to check the gap better.

Here it is now. I don't have time to prep and cut the legs tonight, but now that I know it's all alligned correctly, I will be able to do that sometime this week hopefully.

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I mentioned that pipe cutter issue a couple pages back. You can protect the tube from the pipe cutter, but if this is 4130 steel, don’t expect it to cut like electrical conduit. You’ll have to retire that cutting blade afterwards.

A grinder is definitely more practical when you get to that hard of a steel.

Pipe cutters are made for soft iron pipe and thin tubing.
 
I mentioned that pipe cutter issue a couple pages back. You can protect the tube from the pipe cutter, but if this is 4130 steel, don’t expect it to cut like electrical conduit. You’ll have to retire that cutting blade afterwards.

A grinder is definitely more practical when you get to that hard of a steel.

Pipe cutters are made for soft iron pipe and thin tubing.

Yeah, that was one of the reasons I checked in with him after I saw how weak the pipe cutters looked at the hardware stores.
 
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I'm not quite understanding the 'gap' issue? Isn't the distance between the triple tree legs and the springer legs, a 'fixed' distance; by a clamp at the top? The only thing that would affect fork action to me would be the angle at the dropout, whether that was allowing the springer to move as intended. The gap should be parallel (the same distance) all the way down the legs in my mind. Unless that bracket at the top is adjustable, not just up and down but in and out, and I'm not seeing it.
 
I'm not quite understanding the 'gap' issue? Isn't the distance between the triple tree legs and the springer legs, a 'fixed' distance; by a clamp at the top? The only thing that would affect fork action to me would be the angle at the dropout, whether that was allowing the springer to move as intended. The gap should be parallel (the same distance) all the way down the legs in my mind. Unless that bracket at the top is adjustable, not just up and down but in and out, and I'm not seeing it.

It would be a fixed distance at the top where the middle fork plate is. But with any of these Monark like springer forks, the distance at the bottom is controlled by the angle of the rockers. Typically if it is pulled too far up or too far down, it will make the springer fork legs closer at the bottom and the fork travel will be less efficient or in some cases slightly binding. There is always a sweet spot that gives the smoothest travel for the fork legs.
 
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Google 'exhaust pipe cutter'. I've used a KD one for many years and they will cut pipe pretty cleanly.

Those look pretty nifty. Thanks for the tip, I'll keep those in mind. I am comfortable with a cutoff wheel though, so I think I'll just go that route. Especially with the thicker gauge tubing of these fork legs.
 
Before any further fork work, I want to get this bike rideable to flush out the mechanicals. So i need a drivetrain.

Cleaned up the rat fink chainring on the wire wheel and installed the bb with a opc from a phat bike.


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May use these brick red block pedals

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While shuffling through some other stuff, I saw this Bendix 3 speed shifter. Slapped it on the bike as a test and I like it.


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Put the rear cog on the wheel. Pieced together about 1.75 chains to get enough to work.
No chainline issues with the fat rims and tires.

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As mentioned before the ugly funky grip shifter bar that the 2nd owner put on the bike has to go. Not only because it is useless and ugly, but also because it interferes with my longspring saddle.
For now I just cut the big section off. I'll remove the rest when I have the other parts off of the bike. The wheel kinda blocks good access with the cutoff wheel.

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Got the seat mounted up and made sure all of my other parts were tightened, alligned, and aired up for a maiden voyage.

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Awesome build with tons of rat rod bikes history. Few of us are still around from those days.
I don’t know if you’re still on the fence about cutting the fork tubes, but I’d vote to leave them. I mean, everybody cuts them cuz that’s what ya do. For that reason alone, I’d leave them uncut and cap them long. Just my 2 cents.
 
Took the bike out for a ride and it rode like a big ol' caddy.

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With these big tires, mega springer fork, and mega spring saddle, I didn't feel the road at all. One thing that really surprised for a maiden ride was how quiet it was. No strange squeaks or squealls. Now it is VERY heavy! But the only time I feel that is when I am lifting it over the steps that lead up and down from our courtyard to the corridor to the lane. But I am extremely happy with the riding geometry and responsiveness of the steering. It's geared fine for a cruise as it sits, but once I hook up the shifting assemblies, I'll have 3 speeds.

Took it down to Forsyth Park and stopped off at one of my favorite patina walls. This huge mansion recently sold, so who knows how long this patina will last. They paid close to 4 million bucks, so my guess is this will eventually get stucco and paint.


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Went down to the fountain where there were about 3 different brides (not unusual for one of my rides actually). The approach from the North was actually roped off for a wedding in front of that side of the fountain.

So I got a stationary "cockpit view" photo for @MattiThundrrr 's new gallery thread. You can see the bride as well as the infamous "NO CYCLING".

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Then I put the camera in 0.5 zoom out mode and took this pic while riding.

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