1 1/8 headset bearings in Cannondale frame

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Cannondale H300 was in rough shape when I got it and I think the head stock bearings were damaged and I threw what I could find in my parts stash in it to get it working then.
Now I'm experimenting adding a suspension fork to soften the ride a bit and raise the bars a bit.
I don't have much experience with or parts for 1 1/8.
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The issue is the lower bearing has side play when the assembly is tight. Any advice in sizing replacement bearings or a complete headset would be appreciated.
 
You only have play in the lower bearing? I'm going to assume the cups are tight in the frame
Yes. From what I'm seeing re: parts online, looks like 34mm and 44mm caged bearings are common sizes.
Are these measured by the id of the race / outside of bearings? Maybe just need a bearing or I can swap cups with smaller race? I'm wondering if the cone on the fork could be smaller on the suspension fork?
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Also if I can remove the cups and measure them maybe I should get an integrated headset?
 
So I would assume you were using whatever crown race came on that fork and you did not change it? Did you confirm that those bearings mate up good to that crown race?

Also you will see some variation between generic frame cups and some of the name brand frame cups depending on if they are steel or aluminum. Check that out as well if you are using mix and match between the top and the bottom cups
 
So I would assume you were using whatever crown race came on that fork and you did not change it? Did you confirm that those bearings mate up good to that crown race?

Also you will see some variation between generic frame cups and some of the name brand frame cups depending on if they are steel or aluminum. Check that out as well if you are using mix and match between the top and the bottom cups
Only at the mock up stage so far so just "threw it together'. Disassembly and measurements coming up.
😎
 
Pulled it all apart and discovered 34mm cups, so replacing the whole headset should be easy.
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Bottom cup had loose caged bearing, and top cup had some kinda built in sealed bearing.
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The top cone is actually a bottom cone, because bottom cone sits on a step a bigger than 1 1/8" there is a very big gap circled in red !
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The stock fork cone looks pretty beat up as well.
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Gonna order a new headset tonight. I was avoiding tearing into it, but looks like an easy fix. Bike actually came with quill stem setup, now I have a lot more stem and bar options.
Thank you guys for the advice.
 
That crown race is harshed well beyond any other I've ever seen. Someone ran that while it was out of adjustment for quite a few miles in the dirt.
Oh ya, lottsa miles and left out in the elements... Back of a LBS find - cost $30.

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I did get a few rides outta that chain after PBBlaster treatment, then it snapped in two!
Original "found" thread - https://ratrodbikes.com/forum/threads/2000-cannondale-h300.110296/

Picked up one of these headsets from Amazon... Std 34mm
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HJYGGJ4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Made my own install tool utilizing an arm from an old garage door opener...

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I had to enlarge the center holes to clear bolt I used.

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Not final yet, having trouble removing the lower cone from the 29er fork crown.

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So much better! Also picked up SRAM trigger shifter so I can dump the sloppy twist grip shift!
Flushed a crazy amount of sand out of the front and rear derailleurs too.
 

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She is back on the road... Did a 12 mi loop yesterday hunting the elusive wild asparagus!
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Rides great! The NOS thumb shifter sure beats the thrashed grip shifter!
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Rode her over some rough RR crossings and beat up black top sections and it took the "harsh" out.
 

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